Htchevyii

sweet!

Awesome! You definitely put my uncling to shame.

My last one was a LUK that lasted 10,000 miles and left me without a functioning clutch 500 miles from home. I installed a brand new AX15 from Advance Adapters and their external slave conversion kit after I limped it home. Watch me suffer here. Of course you can convert the used trans with the AA kit or by piecing it together. I couldn't find a deal on a bellhousing, so it made sense for me to just buy the kit and be done with it.

I'm not sure how many suffer from a broken headlamp switch mount in the dash, but after turning mine on and off hundreds of times, it finally gave out. Apparently, I'm not the first one to have this problem, because I found this repair bezel for sale online. A little fiddly, but made for a pretty clean repair.

I removed the regulators and lubed them with chain lube as well as cleaning and lubing the window channels. They went from not working to barely working. I've got all new weatherstripping and window channels that will be installed after paint, we will see if that changes anything. I know that the fuzz getting worn off of them over time affects function, but the silicone usually makes up for that.

I'm not sure how many of you have power windows in your MJ's? I installed a voltage converter to boost voltage and fix my super sluggish power windows. It was cheap and easy with great results. If you try this, make sure that your tracks and guides are well lubed and not binding because you might actually have the power to damage something now. The same probably apply to frozen windows.

I had a distributer squeal in my 4.0 once that sounded exactly like a squealing belt. It was very easily identifiable with a stethoscope.... once you figured out to put it there. It would come and go and somehow always stopped when you had the hood open.

I don't see where Crown lists the thread size? Seems likely that a Toyota might use the same plug.

Dang, that is pretty horrid. I'm pretty sure that I drew a better looking truck while sitting in the back of the class in 4th grade.

My Comanche usually hauls itself. My 2005 Ram 1500 handles the bigger jobs.

I'm going to try the Barnes brace and spacer on my stock XJ. It does not have the sector shaft support like the Iron Man and others, but I don't think it needed on a stock ish build and it doesn't require sway bar drop brackets. https://barnes4wd.com/collections/xj-steering-upgrades If you're interested in the style with the pinion support, here's a link to the Amazon one that I put on the MJ.

I'm running a new box from Vital All-Terrain. Its a Durango type box that is a direct bolt in. A good steering box brace and replacing the aluminum spacer beneath the box are must haves in my opinion. https://www.vitalallterrain.com/collections/jeep-parts/products/dta-1418_w4

You might compare the cost of a brand new unit from Advance Adapters or Novak to the cost of having yours rebuilt. I bought the new one from Advance, but I did need to redrill the tail housing. Novak will drill it for you. I went with the Advance one because it was a few hundred bucks cheaper and available in a few days from Summit Racing.

Merry Christmas y'all!

Thanks everyone! Happy Holidays!

The Bing robot did pretty good on these.

I think that my bedliner coated MJ gets more attention than any of my "nice" cars. My wife says that it's a "d*** magnet".

It looks like the 2.5 has a spring loaded tensioner for the timing chain. I'm guessing that it exploded. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-is-wrong-in-this-99-tj-2-5-timing-case.67296/

Looking good!

Strangely, I seem to be seeing more lately than I have seen in years! I also get random texts from friends and relatives when they see one. I'm pretty sure this one my friend sent to me belongs to @EUREKA. I rarely drive mine to work, so I'm not usually in it when I see another.

Key makes replacement assemblies now as well as just the lenses. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115801642492?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=L6bMzCmTSr2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=JeYfUyVkQ5q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

They would probably be fine for front turn signals. Definitely too bright inside. My biggest concern was my dim brake lights on a bright day, so that's all that I changed. I did add a relay kit to the headlamps as I do with most of my old vehicles. Not only does it increase voltage to the lamps, it reduces the load on the headlamp switch. I don't like the way the modern headlamps look in old cars.

I used these in multiple vehicles with great results. I'm not crazy about the thought of getting rear ended in this thing, so I've been hunting for more visible tail lamps. I tried a few LEDs and they were all dimmer than factory. I read about these "plasma LEDs" on one of the classic car forums from West Coast Classic Cougar. People have found them to be the best, even if you don't have a Cougar. They are impressive! The first photo is new driver's side bulbs, the second is LED upper and incandescent lower. These are not new lenses. Oh ya, my old bulbs were some Honda ones that were already supposed to be brighter than stock. It's been a few years now and no problems in either vehicle that I installed them in.

Thanks! I don't know who was harder on it, the two loggers or twenty something year old me. Never mind, it was definitely me! I remember the time I banged it into second and sheared all of the teeth off of second gear and the mainshaft. That was it for the Peugeot. I got to figure out how to do the ax15 swap in the driveway.

The mixture of fasteners sure makes the emergency tool kit a challenge! Mine is all stuffed inside of a tool bag inside of Crown Royal bags.