Htchevyii

I just drove it a bunch more and it is still behaving. We take off 1,600 miles in it tomorrow.😬

I didn't think it was worth the risk.

I called in "dead Jeep" to work and pulled off the EGR valve this AM. Early start since it was bothering me all night. It did have a slight leak. Since I couldn't buy a new one today if at all, I made a quick block off plate and sandwiched it between the valve and intake. I cut a new gasket from Felpro hi temp gasket material. So far, all of the issues seem to be gone!! I think I owe Cruiser a case of beer for this one.

New cap & rotor. I did disconnect the EGR vacuum hose and apply vacuum with a vacuum pump and the engine died, so I believe it is working properly. Not sure how I'd figure out if its slightly leaking? The light surging at idle has been there all along. A few times in the last few days if you give it just a little gas in neutral, it would start surging and sound like a funny car. Maybe 200-1200 RPM back and forth. Let off and reapply the gas and it might not do it. I replaced the exhaust manifold and retorqued the the bolts once, but I'll double check them. It really does act like a vacuum leak.

Hi guys, this is driving my nuts. I spent 3 months going over this thing for a big trip in 2 days. It was running good until today. It has always seemed to idle just a little rough, but not too bad. Now half of the time when I try to take of it will stall. If you hammer it, it will drive through it. I have a REM2+ and went through all of the settings and didn't really see anything out of wack. I did get loop rich a few times and loop lean once. I threw the O2 from the 88 in with no change, (both Bosch units). TPS looks to be working smoothly. Fuel pressure was 30 with hose attached and 38 without. New indexed distributor, plugs, wires, IAC, cleaned TB, fuel pump and filter, tank removed and cleaned. NTK CPS with bolt hole mod. The Jeep sat for 10 years before I got it. The ground by the dipstick is good and it has new battery cables with extra grounds added. Resistance ohm test from the TPS to battery read 0 and the wiggle test didn't show anything. No change in RPM when I sprayed starting fluid. I'm running out of ideas here. I did notice that the injectors looked a little different and the PN shows they are from a 1996+. That wouldn't explain the new dying though, but could be an issue? Thanks! Video here: https://youtube.com/shorts/giPhYZS2z3A?feature=share3

We sold a giant lathe and press brake for practically nothing, but they were both huge and too heavy for our fork lift, so the buyers had to rent huge ones to load. I think that smaller stuff would have had a better market, you would need a huge space and they were set up for 3 phrase power.

It will go to auction. I'm keeping an eye on it.

Somehow this 2000 XJ is still in use as a CA state vehicle. 2WD, 4.0 with 197,000 miles. It looks like we started with 12 and there are 6 remaining in use at this time. There is no planned retirement date for this one at this time, but it will probably be replaced with some sort of plastic EV at some point. Oh and the operator loves it!

Super, thanks!

Hi guys, I did some searching, but didn't come up with anything conclusive except for the info below. I know these systems are rather crude, but here are my two issues. When I set the cruise, it hammers the throttle and picks up 8-10 MPH. This makes it somewhat difficult to set when in traffic. It also seems rather jerky in it's throttle application, maybe the sensitivity adjustment? thanks! "Those old cruise control boxes have three adjustment screws that are labelled... Low Cut - adjusts the lowest speed at which the system can be engaged Centering - adjusts how much the speed can deviate from the setting +/- mph. Sensitivity - adjusts how quickly the speed servo reacts to maintain speed control"

Body Armor 4x4 unit for a Tacoma mounted to a home built bumper.

Well, yours did better than mine! After driving 500 miles without a clutch, I was over it, (there's a video of that struggle on YouTube as well). It actually wasn't too bad if I could avoid cities and didn't have to stop on a hill. Then I was screwed because it wouldn't crank over fast enough to start in gear and the JL had to give me a push! I might have been able to start it in low range and then crawl to a flat spot and restart or just jam it in first, but luckily it didn't come to that! Hopefully there are some helpful tips in the video that will save you a little bit of time.

I use a portable AC unit in my vintage trailer and have it vented through the floor in an inconspicuous area under the counter. It seems to work well enough with minimal minimal modifications.

Some good points there, but we have gone on 3000 miles trips with hundreds of miles off road. The Jeep gets used and taxed in ways that it normally doesn't, especially when combined with desert heat and problems seem to develop at a drastically quicker pace. On the last big trip it was the internal slave ASSY that was 3 years old. That led to an external conversion after a stressful 500 mile trip home! Of course I prepare as much as possible, but on a 35 year old truck, there always seems to be something that develops on each trip especially when used off road.

We have to be a little more prepared for the places that we go. There are no stores and tows would be hard to come by if not very expensive! Most problems have been relatively minor, (loose bolts and such). You would be surprised how many issues can develop on a 3000 mile trip with hundreds of miles off road, even when you think its in tip top shape. The biggest problems have been failures of newer parts such as the LUK internal slave cylinder that suddenly and catastrophicly failed with 10,000 on it. We drove 500 miles home from the Black Rock desert in NV to Northern CA with no clutch. I mostly try to prepare for issues on the trail that will prevent me from getting back to civilization where I can get a tow. Oh ya, my Flowkooler water pump somehow sprung a leak sitting in the garage with 8,000 miles on it. I'm going to need a bigger spare parts bag. 🤑

A lot of the time it's a long way to the nearest parts store!

Good ideas, I have a compressor and plug kit that goes on every trip. I do need to buy another extinguisher ASAP though! I also have wire, terminals, fuses, relays, ETC. Oh, and these field replaceable valve stems are pretty sweet!

Ok guys, we are getting ready to head out on a few thousand mile trip in our "free" 1989 XJ. So far, I've put about 400 miles on it and have about another week to drive it before we take off. Long story short, the Jeep received a 1996 engine several years ago, but they didn't install the Renix flexplate. I have replaced all normal maintenance items, (tune up, all fluids and all brake, trans, cooling, fuel & PS hoses), belt, front hub assemblies, fuel pump, some u joints, oil filter housing seals, oil pan and rear main seal, V/C gasket and most brake components, (deleted the Bendix 9 ABS system). It also received a new radiator and alternator. I carry a pretty extensive tool kit with metric, Standard, torx, ETC. As far as parts, CPS, IGN module, coil, belt, hose connectors for fuel and heater hoses, extra fuel hose, u-joints, assorted clamps, quick connect seal kit for fuel hoses and trans cooler lines, bag each of metric nuts and bolts, standard nuts and bolts and washers. And of course, fluids, silicone sealant, zip ties and radiator stop leak. What am I missing that you can think of or have had fail? The nice thing is that I can just swap the tools and parts between the '88MJ and '89XJ since most things are the same.

Here you go: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150722&page=16

Maybe I'm just lucky. The first one failed on the MJ when it was about 10 years old, so I guess the Mopar replacement has lasted 25 years. The old one out of the XJ said Renix on it, so I guess it might be original. The contacts were not corroded, (high desert rig). I've still never had a bad CPS though.🤔

I would love to add a higher capacity tank so I don't have to pack around a bunch of gas cans!

I did one years ago with zip ties and never had a problem again. It required twice as many holes and was a little funkier looking though.

I have three different air cleaner housings and the bottom box on all of them is bowed out enough that the air filter no longer fits and seals correctly. I attempted to gently heat one with a heat gun and reform, but it quickly went back to it's old shape. I'm sure there are many potential fixes, but a quick and easy one that I found was to drill 4 holes and use 2 electric fan/trans cooler mounting straps that I had laying around, such as Flex-a-lite 117768. Just make sure to drill beneath the filter and away from obstructions. It's the dirty side of the filter, so the holes aren't an issue.

Just curious as to how many have experienced a ICM failure? The only time the MJ has been towed that I can remember in the last 30 years, (except for the lake incident, not the trucks fault), was when the ICM failed about 20 years ago. Fast forward to now. I attempted to drive my "new" 1989 XJ to work on Monday. I made it about a mile and the engine shut off and wouldn't restart. Everyone's always talking CPS so I went ahead and installed an NTK and did the bolt hole mod. I've replaced a few of them just because I was doing a clutch or something, but have yet to have a CPS failure, (in 30 years). Just curious as to if many others have had ICM failures. To be fair, I always replace the ICM and coil, so I suppose the coil could be the problem. One more thing, for some reason it is currently very hard to find a replacement ICM. Rock Auto doesn't show any brands available. Nothing at Napa and most online suppliers showed out of stock. I did disregard unknown brands with made up sounding names. The local O'Reilly had 1x Masterpro in stock and said that it was all that they could get and there weren't any more in their warehouse. I carry a spare, (that I used on the XJ) so I went ahead and bought it, even though I usually opt for a better brand.

Bavarian Manure Wagon. By the way, What's the difference between a BMW and a porcupine? On the BMW the pricks are on the inside.