Htchevyii

We have been going on overlanding trips and generally stay in a different place every night. It's just more exciting than sitting around a camp all day. The trailer is nice for bad weather and we usually attend one vintage trailer rally per year, which is a pretty good time. There's a video on our YouTube if anyone wants to see what it's all about.

Nice! It was exactly one year since the last time we used the Lo-Liner. We love the trailer, but would rather camp in a tent in a disbursed are than in a campground full of people in most cases. If I hadn't spent a year restoring it, I'd probably get rid of it.

Vintage trailer rally last weekend in our 1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner.

I would be interested in a few if you will have dome for sale. Just today I was out in my parts rig looking for one, only to find them all missing. Someone drilled holes in the bezel and zip tied them in. 🙄

The jury is still out, I've heard of others successfully using the 19v unit. I am going to see how they perform at a lower voltage when I get the adjustable unit. My windows were pretty much unusable before, so it's not much of a risk to me. I've seen 6V starter motors used with 12V conversations for years and they seem to work fine. Also, the window motors operate for a much shorter period of time and don't stall or struggle now, so it could very well increase their life? Try at your own risk, but I am content at the moment.

PXL_20230426_023055012.mp4 I used a step up convertor to increase voltage to the motors. Even after I pulled the regulators out and lubed them, lubed the window runs with silicone and cleaned the connectors, my windows operation was pathetic. Now they go up and down like a new car. The most readily available step up convertor increases voltage to 19V. I think that 15-16 might be ideal. I did find a 13.8V model and that might be fine as well. I am currently using the 19V, but have ordered an adjustable unit so that I can see what the ideal voltage would be. You definitely want to make sure that everything is well lubed and would need to use caution if frozen because they now have the power to break stuff! I mounted the box under the driver's kick panel, powered by the stock power connector on the fuse box and then just plugged the violet wire into the box. Easily reversible. A YouTube video is in the works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H97ETP8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I'm lucky enough to live an hour and a half away. It's 48 driven miles, but only 21 air miles from my house. The only "paved" road that I would air down my tires for.

Thanks, that means a lot!

Surprisingly no. The area is controlled by the Bureau of Land Management so things are fairly relaxed. There is a longer route that we will do after it opens on May 12th.

I believe that they show 3 different color combo's but maybe other's are available as well? As Pete said, Phoenix Graphics.

Ha ha, I've had my MJ since I was about 20... A looong time! I banged 2nd hard and sheared all of the teeth off of second gear and the main shaft 25+ years ago on the BA10/5! I swapped in a used AX15 and it has been flawless ever since. I did finally replace it with a brand new one from Advance Adapters within the last year just because I already had it out and it had a ton of miles on it.

We explore some of California's most rugged and remote coastline in our '88 Comanche.

Thanks, I welded a piece of flat stock to the pedal so that I can use both switches side by side in the existing factory mount.

I have that switch, but by us Thanks Cruiser, I have the SL186 I'm just wondering how deleting the vacuum dump affects the cruise control? Maybe they also used the switch with the dump valve on non cruise trucks and that's why it can be deleted?

I have that switch, but by using it you are deleting the dump valve, correct? That doesn't cause any issues?

Hi Cruiser54, I'm finishing up my 96 booster swap and eliminating the terrible Bendix 9 ABS in my 89 XJ. My old brake lamp switch has 4 terminals, all of which have wires going to them. Clearly the wires are going to the same place, (terminals joined together on the switch), so I suppose I could splice those together. What is the function of the vacuum dump valve? There isn't a down side with eliminating it? Thanks for you help.

transmis I ended up with an extra one of these if you end up piecing a setup together, (I bought the AA conversion kit as well as their new transmission which came with it already installed). $50.00 + shipping. I posed a video of the conversion on YouTube if you end up going that route.

One of my favorites.

There is a 27 or so page thread on one of the XJ forums about radiators. My takeaway was that almost all of the welded aluminum units would eventually crack if used off road, especially the cheaper ones. I don't really like the plastic tanks, but they seem to handle flexing and vibration better than some of the welded aluminum units.

Wow, those springs have some serious arch! How much did they raise the truck?

I know that radiators are a common subject of confusion so here's my experience. I'm currently running a Performance Radiator single row 1-1/2" thick radiator in the MJ and my "new" XJ. They cost about $130 with free shipping. They do have the provision for the fan sensor and a thicker core than the Spectra Premium. I did try a Cold Case all aluminum unit. Unfortunately, even with new transmission and engine mounts installed at the same time, there just wasn't sufficient clearance and the first time that I took it off road the fan clutch destroyed the radiator. Cold Case blamed the aftermarket fan clutch. Nevermind that I've had the truck for 30 years and 4 radiators and never had an issue. Anyway, I switched to the Performance Radiator 3 years ago and it's been working great, also no fan contact even with the same fan clutch. Hope this helps someone. The bottom two pics are the Cold Case.

Not in the junk yard, but might as well be. This guy has six or seven vehicles on his property only one of which seems to move. The poor Comanche has been sitting there with the driver's window down for at least 2 years. Out of state registration and at least five years out. I tried to buy it and gave him my card, but no dice yet.

Make sure that there are no old pieces inside the hose end if you haven't already?