Akula69

Really?!? I wish I had those minutes of my life back - I didn't need to see that.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20578 :cheers:

I guess I might be reading it wrong, but: When I look at the "sample" forums that are running FusionBB, it shows the number of hits after the forum title. If that is the actual number of users on any given forum, will it be able to support the number of users that we have? or, does that number simply reflect the number of folks that have "looked" at that test forum? I also agree with the busy comment - the pages look full, even on the working forums (I went to Chevytalk.com). Just my .02

I have the MJ header panel, grill and trim, and side marker frames but not the headlight doors. I also have the fenders and flares. They are in OK shape with some minor wear. Billet grille is black, grille trim and side marker trim is chrome. I would think it would be cost preventive to ship the fenders and flares from here, but we might be able to send the header panel and other parts. I also know where there is a complete MJ header (Baton Rouge Pull-a-Part) in the yard if you think that would be more to your liking. PM me if interested.

Ya think? I'm a lot further south then that and we were below 32 this morning. I passed a retainage pond near the house and could have sworn the ducks were frozen to the inlet pipe.

Who, me? ;) Never. We've been working on the concept of a test still for some time now to produce additional vehicle fuel. We figured we could use deer corn and then feed the mash to the chickens afterwords.....of course, we have to get some chickens first. Of course, your test still is completely legal because you are not producing comercial quanities of consumable fluids. :brows:

holding out on yer CC friends? I've heard nothing about consumable fluids from you

On Christmas Jeep: XJ power booster and master XJ side mirrors Chevrolet Impala rear view mirror with map lights Sony Sound system XJ bucket seats XJ windshield washer bottle XJ front head light harness XJ underhood light On Junior: XJ power booster and master XJ side mirrors XJ bucket seats XJ front head light harness

Glad your OK jim - gotta watch those jeeps - they get ornrey sometimes. Get well soon!

Mine had the same problem and I found that there are two sets for plug type connectors that come out of the harness. One is for the bumper license plate lamps, and the other was for a small lamp under and behind the bumper that would illuminate the license plate if the rear bumper was not ordered. These two sets of plugs are wired black (ground) and dark blue (positive). In both cases the blue wire is doubled up inside the plug (which is female) and corrosion had set in inside the plug causing the wires to seperate and interrupt the current. When I checked the plug with a multimeter it checked good (because one of the leads is still hot - they just aren't touching eachother in there!). if they separate the running lights downstream from them will not come on.

In my 97 Ford SHO, in both my MJ's, and in the XJ the parasitic drain was the switch for the interior dome lights. I also had a dead short inside a malfunctioning alternator on one of the MJ's, but that was apparent immediately upon hookup (kinda sparky as well).

Had the same problem and it ended up being the headlight switch itself. Of course, I replaced it after I struggled with the grounds, cleaning and treating the electrical plugs and sockets, and replacing bulbs :roll: so it could have been a combination of any of the above......but it didn't go away until the switch. Funny story: I pulled on the handle of the switch until I thought I'd get a hernia...speaking badly about it's heritage the whole time and finally gave up....until my son reached behind it and pushed the little button that released it.... :redX:

I dunno...watching that refridgerator guy rumble around was kinda cool.... But I think the pack will win. :clapping:

oops - didn't see that. x-nay on my first post... :oops:

Not sure I understand exactly what you are asking. The dash (once the trim is removed and the heater control and radio are gone) is just a pad that is glued to a inner frame. As far as I know they cannot be separated without damage to the pad.

The guy over at the Gojeep site had a similar problem, and solved it by putting a flow restrictor in the radiator hose (a piece of hard plastic with a smaller hole drilled in the center). The link: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRadiatorRestrictor.htm Good luck!

Thanks

I posted before realizing what I'd said yesterday - (must have been 'cause I had the day off). To mail you a cable would be about .50....so I'd just send it to ya and call it a day....

:yes:

Does anyone have the link for the info (and wiring) on the dash clocks? I have lost it. :headpop:

1) Yeah, the loop on the control end just hooks over the catch in the control. there is a small black plastic clip that pushes into a receiver on the control a little bit further down the cable. It is square in shape and will snap in with an audible click. 2) Yeah, it has to be tight. Unfortunately this is one of the two most fragile parts of the HVAC system ( the other part being the plastic receiver that the cable snaps into right beside that fitting) . If you pinch it too hard it will break at the bend, but if it is too loose the cable just slips through it. Since I broke a few, I now leave the blend door cable attached at that fitting (and just deal with it flopping around) rather then take the chance and break it. I have a couple of extra cables if yours is too kinked. You can have one for free if you pay for the ride.

Man - if only I had $$$$ :roll:

might need some axle grease for that :eek:

:agree:

Gald to hear it worked out. Good luck with the fine tuning. :cheers: