johnnyc

Well Bo, I just measured the shaft and from u-joint to u-joint, it's 41-3/16". Sounds like it's about an inch too short. You can have it if you want it. But only if there's no kissing involved. ;)

When I did my WJ booster swap, I found that I didn't have to grind the flat spot or enlarge the hole. I had already ground the flat spot before I realized that I did so unnecessarily. :fs1: I'm not sure when they changed the rod/brake switch setup, but in my 92 MJ, the booster was a direct fit. :dunno:

Bo...I should have my old driveshaft out in the side yard. It is from a SWB...4.0...AW4...231...Dana 44. I'll check the measurement in the morning.

I hate to give it up. I liked having a Metric Ton shortbed. :D I'll get it in the mail ASAP. :cheers:

It's 46 inches. Part number is 8546B. They also have it in silver, part number 8546. I was going to center it in the bed, but that would've given me pretty unusable space on either side. So I moved it all the way to one side, so that I could fit the jerry can holder.

Hey Rob, I just took the badge off my tailgate. It's unbroken, just needs some touchup. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.

I didn't want an over-the-rail box. After a lot of research, I found a Dee Zee box that was SUPPOSED to sit just below the rails. When I got the box, it stuck up about an inch. WTF? I measured the height of the Dee Zee box, and it was off by about an inch. So the dimensions on Dee Zee's own website were wrong. My buddy, who works in a metal shop, said he could cut the bottom off, remove an inch, and reweld it. But I've gotten used to it now. And besides, my jerry can would still stick up above the rails.

The wiring is the easiest part. Hopefully, you have the bulb sockets for the new header panel. Just splice the newer sockets into the old harness. I used butt connectors and heat shrink. The newer turn signals do have two bulbs instead of the original one. I'm just using the outermost bulb on each side. The other holes are capped off with the unused sockets to prevent moisture from entering. One of these days, I'll splice the other sockets into place and get them opearational. But for now, it works just fine.

Were those the main leaves that you got from me? I got closer to 2" when I had them on.

All Metric Tons were longbeds, for one. And some, if not all, had a Metric Ton badge on the tailgate. Besides that :dunno:

At least they had them in 91 and 92.

Because it's on a timer. I just took the bulb out of the cluster when mine lit up. Maintenance done!

Where in SoCal? It's a big place. I've got Explorer rear discs on my D44. And a WJ brake booster and master. Haven't swapped out the prop valve yet, but I have one from a 4-disc ZJ in my toolbox. My buddy actually pulled an Astro hydroboost unit from the junkyard. He was planning to swap it into his XJ, but never got around to it. Oh, if you want a Dana 44 for your MJ, there's one in the Pick-a-Part yard on Beach Blvd. in Stanton.

I've had a Red Top (leaked) and a Yellow Top (bad cell). That's not to say that I wouldn't buy another Optima. I would if the price was right. I now have an Odyssey 1200, whose smaller size works better for my application. Plus, I got it brand new for $50 (special deal).

KZ4DNA here. :waving: I didn't care for the call sign that the FCC issued me, so I got a "vanity sign". Right now, I just have a slightly "modified" Yaesu VX-6R handheld. I want to get a mobile unit in the MJ in the future. Maybe the Yaesu 8800.

Thanks Bo for noticing my best side. ;) As I replied to Blue XJ's PM, we never did get the power door locks to work right. That was a long day at Trasborg's house and it was dark. And were tired and hungry. Pete later figured out that we needed to add some relays to make the door locks work. I can unlock the doors with either switch, but I can't lock them. We still haven't gotten around to fixing that yet. Maybe it's time to harrass Pete about it. :D

I didn't use the rear bracket either. But I did put a screw in the rearmost cupholder. The screw goes into the bracket that was used by the original console. And the screw head doesn't interfere with anything.

No. There were three different unit bearings. 87-90, 90-mid 99, and mid 99-01. You can use any of the three, BUT you must also use the corresponding rotor. Mixing and matching unit bearings and rotors is a no-no. And I have first hand knowledge of this. ;)

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/ct ... 07172.html

It's just like anything else. First time was a nightmare. But I've done quite a few since and it gets much easier. And yes, it's much easier to do it on the bench. :D

Guess I never looked at them closely enough. Either way, the brackets are coming off when I get my long arms on...some day. Avery - yes, the XJ seat brackets were changed in 95. But the MJ brackets are different from the XJ ones.

Not different They are they same but with an additional support. I believe they are actually different. The MJ ones are one long piece, not an XJ piece with an additional support. Also, the seat mounting brackets and floor pans are different. And so is the e-brake setup. But yeah, maybe 1%.

Most definitely an 8.25.

Had to get my rear driveshaft retubed and the double cardan joint rebuilt. The centering pin and ball were wasted and the u-joints were water-contaminated. Unfortunately, after doing the Rubicon Trail back in June, I neglected to regrease the shaft. :fs1: Well, at least the Jeep is running very smoothly now.

Go Angels. If it came down to a freeway series, it would be tough. I'm also a Dodgers fan, having lived in the Valley for many years. I understand that a lot of people don't like California, and that's fine. But baseball is baseball and the World Series is the World Series. A true baseball fan would watch the Series no matter who was playing. Hell, I watched the Yankees and Mets back in 2000. I know a couple of real Sox fans who moved here from Boston. And like jpnjim, they are magnaminous in defeat.