onlyinajeep726

What year and what engine and transmission?

Would something like this work? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Fabrication-Tools/2-Forged-Johnny-Joint-with-3-4-RH-Threaded-Stud.aspx?t_c=86&t_s=528&t_pt=101460&t_pn=CURCE-9112SP Of course I'd have to verify what dimensions will work for my setup, but would this work?

Doesn't everyone called them "Exploders" for a reason? lol

That's what everyone tells me, but according to RC's installation instructions, the heim is axle side. See page 2 of this: http://www.roughcountry.com/install/1079.pdf As far as warranty goes, I have no idea since I bought it from an eBay store that sells RC and other retail Jeep stuff. Not sure how that works, but I assume RC is still on the hook for manufacturer defects. I purchased this trac-bar early February of 2012, so it's about 15 months old. I did, however, contact RC explaining the situation and am awaiting a response. I really don't want to have to buy another trac-bar. Maybe they'll send me my money back and I can put it towards an IRO like I originally wanted. I guess it's like the old adage goes: you get what you pay for.

Within the last 14 months? If so, then I should be expecting a quality replacement since I more than likely have a faulty unit.

I got this RC trac-bar a little over a year ago and the heim joint seemed to freely spin around when I had it disconnected from the axle. I've heard a ton of bad things about this trac-bar, mostly saying that the heim joint wears out quickly. I have pretty bad DW starting at around ~40-45 MPH, and I know trac-bar is a good place to start. The polyurethane bushing side going to the drop bracket seems fine. Does anyone have any suggestions to remedy this problem, such as a better quality heim joint or should I just replace the whole damn trac-bar with something better? Also, I should add that I started having DW before I swapped axles, and still have it now that the new-to-me axle is installed. So, don't *think* hubs, ball joints, etc. The UCA's have new polyurethane bushings axle side and the stock, 26 year old rubber bushing frame side. The LCA's are Rusty's with the bend and rubber bushings (seem to be in decent condition). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Adjustable-Track-Bar-4-6-5-RC-/260745988655?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb5ac0a2f

It may or may not have an 8.8 and even if it does, it will most certainly have drum brakes. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html

I've been thinking about this, and i don't see much difference between an xj and a zj...and they came factory with 318's and 360s? Wheres the huge design difference that lets the zj keep a 5.9 cool? I've seen quite a few 5.2 and 5.9 ZJs at the junk yard that got there by means of fire, ie, the engine bay and hood were toasted remains of an engine... Not sure if there's a link to the cooling design, but just putting that out there.

:needpics:

My D30 came from a '94 XJ with ABS and the 2.5L/5-speed. I'm fairly confident they're 297's as they are noticeably bigger than the stock U's in my '88 XJ D30. Just another win in addition to the 4.10's (which was the whole reason I pulled it :yes: ).

Did they ever make a RHD MJ?

Time for a new rear axle and beef up the front...

Battery ground wire is attached there in Renix Jeeps. It wasn't until later that Chrysler moved it to its own spot on the engine behind the alternator and added the aux. wire to the chassis.

http://www.jpmagazin...es/viewall.html Scroll down to the part titled, "Run, Run, Rudolph"... Was my problem on my '88 XJ until I tightened the bolts. Run, Run, Rudolph Maybe it is age, maybe it is mileage, but we've seen a lot of Renix-era ('87-'90) Cherokees where the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifold to the six-cylinder engine work themselves loose and cause the engine to race around 2,000 rpm. Prevention: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Cure: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Seriously though, if your Jeep isn't doing this yet, just check the bolts. If it is idling erratically, grab your 9/16-inch wrench, get the Jeep to operating temperature and tighten the bolts while the Jeep is hot. Be wary of over tightening, though-they like to snap. If you let the leak go for too long you might need to just bite the bullet and put in a new gasket, but often tightening is all that is needed.

I found this idea to be an easier option for me (see below)... That, paired with 6.5" subs in the door and an awesome Pioneer Supertuner IIID. Sounds like I'm at a recording studio every time I listen to music. Couldn't be happier.

Sounds good guys. I hope to see y'all there.

You'll need the transmission control module which is located under the passenger side dash. As far as how to hook it up, the NSS, and any other various wires/electrical to a Jeep designed for a manual... :dunno: I've heard it's a lot easier to go from automatic to stick than vice versa, but it can be done. Honestly though, I think it would be easier for you to find an AX-15 and transfer case already bolted up and swap that in. This is of course assuming you wanted to keep it a manual.

I forgot to mention that I have a knock off FM40 on my XJ with a stroker. Sounds great but if you want it to be fairly conservative, I still think the CB Pro is a better option. If you're luck enough, your nearest muffler shop might let you hear your Jeep run with different mufflers to see which sound you like best before they weld it.

AMC trying to lower inventory count by sticking whatever they had on the shelves into trucks despite the options of said trucks? lol Who knows... But I guess if you ever decide to add cruise control, you're off to a good start. :rotf:

I bought some synthetic 75W-90 with the LSD additive already mixed in but I have an open diff. Says right on the side of the bottle "for use on LSD and safe for non-locking (open diff.) applications." So to answer your last question, I'd say that's a negative ghost rider... Carry on. :thumbsup:

Cherry Bomb Pro muffler. Running one on my '96 XJ 4.0L HO and it sounds good without the ricer sound, but still grumbles enough to make her sound good. Here's the link on Amazon.com: <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018GQRD4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1>

Nice Jeeps, nice yard... yea, you bastard! lol. But seriously, you have an awesome fleet there... Can I haz one of your MJs? :brows:

You could do that or you could use a mini cone filter for the valve cover hose and plumb the vac canister hose to the Thor's inlet.

One of the big hoses go to the front CCV/PCV on the valve cover, and the other one (that wraps around the washer bottle and along the firewall) goes to the vacuum canister. The other two smaller lines operate a vacuum motor used to help it warm up quicker by pulling in hot air off of the exhaust manifold. Those two aren't near as important so I just capped them off and tucked it somewhere. The one big line going to the vac can needs to be installed and the other going to the CCV/PCV can be replaced by a small mini cone filter or hooked up to the main intake tube, like below.

The '86 XJs and MJs were never designed to fit a 4.0L. The firewall where the transmission tunnel starts sits lower than the '87 and newer models. You basically have to modify a lot of the Jeep to make it fit right. There's tons of information about a 4.0L swap into the '86 and older XJs and MJs on this forum and a few others. It can be done, and eventually I'm going to do so on mine. But it's not a direct swap... Here's the thread I started: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38356-40-into-an-86/ And here's a comparison of the firewall/transmission tunnels. This will also address your crossmember question. http://comancheclub.com/topic/31039-big-swap-help/?p=314518