onlyinajeep726

Won't work. Since the variable voltage output to the fuel gauge comes off the potentiometer's slider terminal, to change output polarity to the gauge you need to switch the input voltage from one pot leg to the other. So, can that be done to correct the issue?

That's the exact truck I wanted when I was looking for my MJ, Pioneer, sliding rear glass, turbine rims, 4.0L and AX15, etc. (except I want the LWB). Nice rig for sure! Congrats!

Check Rock Auto (rockauto.com)

Hahaha, that was great.

You noticed that too, huh? I agree. That diesel will rip that frenchy to shreds.

Well.... that's not entirely the case. The alternator sits higher in the engine bay for that belt setup on a stock HO rig. I know when I did my stroker in my '88 Renix XJ, I used the stock Renix alternator and brackets while everything else changed (HO powersteering pump and idler bracket). I went to the parts store and asked for a belt for a '96 XJ (same routing as what you posted), got home and it was an inch too short (99 inches). Went back to the parts store and got a 100 inch belt and now it's perfect. So if you go that route, the part number for the Dayco belt is 5061000. It's 100 inches long by 0.82 inches wide. The alternator sits about 3 inches lower in a Renix than in an HO. Just some food for thought.

One I forgot...

Geez, sorry for the suggestion... I wasn't being serious anyhow, but ok...

Or this...

Then you can do this next... Solid front axle swap. :yes:

I was thinking they were phased out of Jeeps way before 2000 as well, however, upon some researching for my own knowledge, I found out this... The AMC 150/2.5 L engine was used in the following vehicles: 1984–1986 Jeep CJ-7 1983.5–1984 AMC Eagle 1984–2000 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 1986–1992 Jeep Comanche (MJ) 1987–2002 Jeep Wrangler (YJ/TJ) 1988–1989 Eagle Premier 1996–2002 Dodge Dakota

Orrrrrrrr.... http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_1005_jeep_cherokee_xj_problems_and_fixes/viewall.html Scroll down to the part titled, "Run, Run, Rudolph"... Was my problem on my '88 XJ until I tightened the bolts. Run, Run, Rudolph Maybe it is age, maybe it is mileage, but we've seen a lot of Renix-era ('87-'90) Cherokees where the bolts holding the intake and exhaust manifold to the six-cylinder engine work themselves loose and cause the engine to race around 2,000 rpm. Prevention: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Cure: Tighten the bolts, dummy! Seriously though, if your Jeep isn't doing this yet, just check the bolts. If it is idling erratically, grab your 9/16-inch wrench, get the Jeep to operating temperature and tighten the bolts while the Jeep is hot. Be wary of over tightening, though-they like to snap. If you let the leak go for too long you might need to just bite the bullet and put in a new gasket, but often tightening is all that is needed.

And a good point it is. :thumbsup: Thank you! :rock on:

You can swap in any 4.0L from '87 - '98, however, I would advise a '91-'95 for the better flowing heads and to ensure that the casting for the blocks have all the needed sensor ports drilled and tapped. Knock sensor comes to mind. Not saying that anything past '95 won't work, but I'm fairly certain that at least up to that point, it was at least drilled (and most tapped). I also know that once you get past '98, due to the coil pack design, there isn't a spot to place a distributor. My reasoning for '91-'95 is those are HO's and still use a fuel pressure regulator on the rail with return line so you can still use your current fuel pump. There's a lot more stuff to consider, but that's my main point.

I hear you man. I've been to Uwharrie twice in my XJ and it was pure awesomeness. I'm on CherokeeForum as well. You're the Comanche guru lol. Anyway, be safe on your trip and if you do make it to Uwharrie, have fun!

Check tire pressure, pack some old rags, tools, a decent floor jack and jack stands, just in case. Can't ever be too prepared lol. By the way, where in NC are you coming to?

Those pictures I promised...

Getting photos uploaded now...

Seems like a good idea to me.

I have no idea, but damn that thing is going to be HUGE. :eek:

Yes, they are bright, but in no way overwhelming at night. They can't really be dimmed, which is not an issue to me. The LED bulbs themselves are hand made by yours truly. :yes: The white overlays are brought to you by http://jeepwhitegauges.com/index-xj.htm. When I made the LED bulbs, I used two 5mm blue LEDs in series with a resistor (whose value is to be calculated based on the current needs and voltage drop of the LEDs). Sorry if I'm getting too technical, but that's what I did and it came out great. I also have custom built LED front turn signals and rear tails. Also did a set of Jeep 2500 tail lights for a buddy of mine for his XJ.

Custom LED bulbs and white face gauges. Even done the transmission shifter. They're a lot more of a deep, rich blue than the picture indicates. My camera has some weird auto-color adjust that I can't figure out how to turn off...

You're still likely to run into the issue of the 4.0 being longer. However, take handful of measurements and see what you find out. I'm sure it can be done and if you go through with it, post lots of pictures to help the rest of us out lol.