onlyinajeep726

The problem I see with using another radiator of similar shape/size to cool a 4.0L is that it will sit too far back to squeeze in the 4.0L, especially if you retain the clutch fan. When they redesigned, they moved the radiator forward by 5-6 inches, but had to go with a different shape radiator as to not rid the Jeep of structural integrity on the front tie-in support. Basically, the way I see it, you'll have to move the radiator forward, which will require cutting and welding, so why not just go ahead and update it to the '87+ design? I will run into this same problem when I redo my '86...

I suppose that would be a viable option. You should do it then. I'd be interested in seeing something like that.

Oh, it wasn't cheap or easy. A lot of fab skills and a large budget... Something most of us lack, sadly. :(

Not an MJ, but some high school kid did it a handful of years back for his senior project to an XJ. Same concept except you can't securely install the high dollar batteries in an MJ unless you sacrifice cargo space. http://driveev.com/jeepev/home.php

Nice buy!

I can't say for sure, but I doubt it.

Yellow is best RPM's for fuel conservation, blue is for best pulling/towing power, and yellow is the mix of both.

Here, I found the link to the page that contained the chart I posted... http://www.superlift.com/library/gears.asp It seems to go more in depth as to how they derived the numbers seen in the chart.

Honestly, I Googled it a while back when I was trying to determine what gears I needed to run 31's or 32's. I couldn't tell you where they derived these numbers, but I cross referenced it with others that I found and they all were the same or very close. This particular one came from Super Lift's website IIRC.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

Here you go...

I've been working that "Report" button to death lately haha.

I'd like a copy of this diagram also. I shall PM you too.

Well, I can tell you that the ½"/13mm hex bolts go in each corner and as far as the threaded studs go, those should go where ever the brackets that hold the transmission lines in place are. The left over 11mm hex bolts go everywhere else.

Or.... Get far, far away from Commifornia... No more EGR! haha. :wavey:

Get an alignment then adjust the steering wheel via that sleeve on the drag-link. Centering the steering wheel will not affect alignment. It only pushes the drop pitman arm thus turning the steering wheel accordingly.

I just posted that twice just to be funny. :shake: :nuts:

Agreed!

Agreed!

Your best bet is to find one from no later than a '90 XJ/MJ and swap that in. You'll need the sending units from the same Jeep. Other than that, you can bring it to a shop and have the mileage dialed in to the exact same as your current cluster to keep it legal.

Ok, haven't been able to work on the MJ since I've been tied up swap in a stroker into my XJ... Anyway, I started the MJ yesterday to move it and while I was at it, I just decided to do a little snooping under the hood. I swapped the two relays on the passenger side, the one that controls the fuel pump and whatever the other one is. Both looked original and were corroded. Thought I was on to something but was disappointed as expected. However, while tinkering under the hood I found another pattern when the engine decides to die. If I push on the TPS lever and let off, and do that repeatedly, as though I was pushing the accelerator but without giving it gas, it will idle fine for anywhere from 30-60 seconds and then begin to slowly lose RPM's, then surge, then bog down again. It goes through this roller coaster of varying RPM's for about 20-30 seconds until it finally cuts off. Then, like I stated before in a previous post, I can restart the engine and it idles fine until the next round. I haven't been able to check fuel pressure coming from the pump and after the regulator, so that could still be it, I just don't know yet. Do these symptoms ring any bells for anyone?

I have a 2.5L too! I just got to figure out how to make her happy and run right... Anyway, congrats on MJOTM!

I built this setup tonight as a matter of fact for my 4.7L stroker for my XJ. I just HAPPENED to have two screws of the right size and pitch, all I had to do to them was cut them to the right length. I followed your write-up to a tee and will be finding out in the next couple of days if she works for a running engine. In practice, it seems to be doing great. I'll snap some additional pictures and post them here.

What's the dimensions of those bolts you used? I know you said you didn't know at the time, but perhaps you do now? I'm about to do this swap tomorrow so any help from anyone is of the essence.

Upgrade to a dual diaphragm brake booster and master cylinder from a '95-'96 XJ. Bypass that load sensing proportion valve and run the XJ prop. valve that's mounted to the booster. Also, make sure you've bleed the brakes really well. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/325707/1993-jeep-cherokee/page-15/ http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0810_cheap_jeep_brake_system_upgrades/