onlyinajeep726
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Everything posted by onlyinajeep726
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Hey guys, just like the title says... I'm planning a visit to Uwharrie that weekend. Planning on camping and wheeling. Going to be there 10:00AM Saturday and leave sometime in the late afternoon on Sunday. Been building the XJ up since my last trip in July, so really want to see what she'll do. Anyway, I know some of my Charlotte buddies should be done with exams by this point, so no excuses lol. Let me know what you guys think and if you're able to join us.
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My guess is he has a SYE.
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N. Carolina $40.00 - title transfer $15.00 - tag transfer $30.00 - new tags $5.00 - notary fee (has to be paid in cash) 3% of vehicle value - highway use tax $30.00 - annual inspection fee ('96 and newer) $13.60 - annual inspection fee ('95 and older) $28.00 - annual tag renewal
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so how would one convert their AC to OBA? my system has a leak and the compressor is still good. http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=a%2Fc+to+OBA+jeep http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c-oba-conversion-write-up-pics-471962/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/c-pump-converted-oba-renix-4-0-a-91610/ http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053742
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:agree: That, or take a couple links out and you'll be golden... :dunce:
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Rusty's Rx300 Remote Resivoir Shocks
onlyinajeep726 replied to MJ_Milam's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I have a Rusty's 3" XJ lift kit (got about 4" of lift with coil spacers and extended shackles) and haven't had any problems with it. Serving me well. Also got some extended stainless steel braided brake lines. My only complaint with Rusty's is their shipping rates are ridiculous, but then again, most company's rates are too. :soap box: I'm a firm believer that shipping rates should not be based on a product's cost. What happened to weight-based shipping rates? </soapbox> -
I've got the bump stops taken care of. After I sawed and torched at it, I cleaned them up and Gorilla glued the extended stops in. They're not going anywhere.
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That's the ticket - 12 VDC compressor! I have one for my train horn on the XJ. Eventually I am going to modify it and run a bigger tank for OBA.
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Wouldn't it just be a better and safer idea all around to convert your A/C compressor to an OBA system or buy a 12 VDC compressor and tank? Either of those two options aren't that expensive, especially compared to the cost of potential damage that can be done to your engine or tires, or you...
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:hmm: :dunno:
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I've already unscrewed the old cups... that wasn't the issue I was having. The issue was that I didn't know that on the Renix years, the rubber was an integral part of the whole bump stop, meaning, I didn't know it was fused/molded/permanently attached to the metal cup that screws out from the coil post. I know the thing screws out. I've had them out a million times, but I wanted to put in the Daystar extended stops. They look just like the ones that are two posts above, except they don't have the bolts on the end. It's ok, I took a hole saw and torn the living hell out of the rubber and the rest that's stuck in there is getting a torch this afternoon.
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Now here's the real question... How's the interior and can I haz pictures of insides? :brows:
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Jim's the man! I love this forum, everyone is so helpful. :cheers:
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Not Dw, But Needs Fixin
onlyinajeep726 replied to ftpiercecracker1's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Ball joints? -
I did that, but I need to remove the OEM rubber to be able to stick the Daystar ones in... However, I have found out that my '88 has the ones that are molded into the metal cups and cannot be removed without a lot of hacking and torching. The newer ones just twist/pull out like 87manch1 said... So I will be taking a hole saw and going to town. Will have to torch the rest of what remains.
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Just like the title says, how in the hell do you get the factory rubber bump stops out of the metal cup to install extended ones? I just bought some Daystar 4" extended stops (2" diameter) and I have basically ripped the hell out of the OEM rubber ones attempting to remove them. It's like it was glued or cast into the metal cup thing. Should I just bust out the torch and fry these M-effers?
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Test drive for at least 15 minutes, varying speed and acceleration and make sure all gears work, especially 5th. Check for leaky clutch master cylinder, check engine, trans., and underneath for leaking fluids, put 10 bucks of gas in it before you drive too far to keep from sucking settled junk into the fuel pump, check all those vacuum hoses for dry rot and cracks, definitely pull carpet, etc. And last but not least, be prepared to walk away if/when it's not worth it...
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Factory Skid Plate
onlyinajeep726 replied to 88whitemanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Quick question, kind of off topic but sort of related. That dampener... why is it used on the 4-banger but not the 4.0? -
Can you pull that bumper off that blue one for me? I'd love you long time.
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Maybe any S-10 or any other rear wheel drive Chevy/GMC that use the 2.8/3.1/3.4, etc. :dunno:
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Not really sure but I imagine there is.
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In that case find yourself a Renix wiring harness and ECU for the 4.0L then proceed into your '97+ engine block swap.
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New Gauge Swap And Issues
onlyinajeep726 replied to SBpunk's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The wiring for those are the same as far as I remember. I swapped in a cluster from a '90 XJ into my '86 MJ and everything works fine. Sounds like to me that your eBay cluster is bad. If your old gauges worked fine before then that's where I'd cast blame. -
Help Grounding Dash+
onlyinajeep726 replied to noboundaries.jd's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Wiper control module gone bad? That's what my issue was in my '88 XJ. -
Why do you think that your gauges won't work? You know you can swap in that '97+ motor and still use the Renix controls and sensors right? Only thing you have to modify to work is the TPS, which is easy to do. Now if you plan on swap computers, wire harness and all that, then you're right to think that gauges won't work. I'd say keep the Renix stuff and just swap the block.