onlyinajeep726

That's better haha.

Holy mother of expensive things, Batman! $500?! That money could be spent on more important and functional things...

I really, really hope that is not the cost in USD... :ack: If it is, it makes all of the money I have in my Cherokee look like pennies.

Also good points lol. However, I no longer have a rear sway bar. That one's on me.

Fuel pump should deliver about 14-15 psi and the regulator should lower it down to 9-10 psi. I don't know if there's a test port/schrader valve on the '88 2.5, but I haven't been able to find one on my '86 2.5. I just took an educated guess and replaced the fuel pump. No more stalling now, so I guess that was my issue.

Mine has 82,XXX miles on it currently, but that doesn't count for the 2.5L that's in it. That was swapped by the first owner from a YJ. He didn't think to take down the mileage on that engine and now I'm paying for it... But my truck is straight as an arrow and 99% rust free. Woot!

I've noticed this on my Cherokee... When looking at it from the front or the back, the whole thing leans/sags towards the driver side. Never really thought about all of those things together contributing, but you've made a good point. Also, on the XJ's, the spare tire is on the driver side, adding even more weight.

Do Cruiser's ground refreshment... The full list can be found here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/ Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

Anyone?

I just got back from picking this bad boy up... It's an AX-15 from a '96 XJ that the seller claims was rebuilt within the last year or so. No bellhousing unfortunately, but I did get the crossmember and a few various other parts. All for $175. This is the start of my '86 2.5L/AX-4 to 4.0L/AX-15 swap. I posted this in MJ tech because I need to clarify some things and I'm hoping y'all can help me out. First, I know I need to find a bellhousing, shift fork, external slave and all that stuff. The thing I'm not sure of is if a NP231 from an '88 or '90 XJ will bolt to this transmission since I'm not sure what each of the spline counts are for an '88, '90 and '96 transfer case. So, does anyone here know for sure? Also, the rear driveshaft is going to be concerning. What do I need to know about that? I should also note that I'm thinking about getting a C8.25 and welding on SUA leaf perches. Also would like to know what gears would work best with an 4.0L/AX-15 combo. I know that stock used 3.07s commonly. I want to make this the most fuel efficient Jeep I can make it. At this moment, I have no intention of lifting or running larger that 215 tires. Also, any writeups on the subject are greatly appreciated. I should also note that I am pulling the engine, computer and all from a '90 XJ with an automatic transmission. Is that going to cause any issues?

Yes, the clutch MC has plenty of room. The WJ booster is no bigger around than the stock booster, it only sticks out further from the firewall. The only problem I'm having at the moment with this upgrade is that the main line running to the rear is leaking around the compression nut on the proportion valve. However, that is as a result of a bad flaring job on my part I believe. I used an XJ prop. valve and ran a traditional braking system, bypassing the load sensing rear valve. My issue will likely be resolved by reflaring that line.

Why so cheap if it's got a rebuilt motor? What all is wrong with it? I live near Raleigh, NC so the ATL is a far drive from here but $500 for something that is in decent shape (assuming it is) might have my attention.

Yea, I didn't think so, especially for having 200k on the odo. I'm just going to say f*#& it and do a 4.0L/AX-15 swap on my '86 MJ... I know everyone says it's a lot of work but I'm just done with this 2.5L. I bought it to be my fuel saving DD and I haven't been able to drive it since I got the damn thing. Just replaced the fuel pump and did the WJ brake booster upgrade. Took it for a test drive and it's sluggish as a mother. Would hardly maintain 55mph on a backroad. It's old and worn out I suppose.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/3777633348.html

Yes. However, with that said, it will need modification to work correctly and you'll need the master cylinder that goes with it. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0810_cheap_jeep_brake_system_upgrades/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/xj-brake-upgrade-3352/ http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

Same issue here with my '86 2.5L TBI... What sucks is I have to pull it out again because the damn floater for the gas gauge is stuck against the stock and tells me the tank is empty all the time... Although, being Bosch and all, we shouldn't have to replace it for a looonnnngg time (hopefully).

Guess we'll find out soon if it'll fit when he gets the set from Jim lol.

Front or rear? 2.5L, 2.8L or 4.0L? If rear, what axle and what manual trans. do you have? All of these listed will have an effect on he length. We need more info.

Take Jim's deal! That's not bad for something that's already been pulled. I'd jump on it but I have two sets of the original AMC/Jeep keys and I think being retro and all, it's pretty darn cool. The spare set of keys hadn't even been punched to put on a key ring lol.

Looks like a Postal Service truck with the blue and red on the side. But I agree, 35 mpg... drive it till the wheels fall off.

:agree:

Sure, I can post a write up. What I plan to do is utilize one of the lines that runs to the rear already, disconnect it from the level sensing device, and replace the distribution block up front with an XJ block/prop. The main reason I'm doing all this now is because I've discovered that I have a leaking wheel cylinder in the rear and I by no means feel like going through the 25 step process of bleeding the brakes because of something that I can't even use. I plan to do the ZJ rear discs at a later time anyway, so this is all kind of preemptive.

Ok, that's what I needed to know. I figured it would be the same. Time to hit up the junkyard.

It just occurred to me, after re-reading this post, that I misread it the first time. I started talking about the fuel assembly reinstallation as if that was what you initially said. I really need to learn to read... Anyway, now that I know what you're talking about haha... One of my check valves has the metal thing on the end, and the other does not. I did not, however, find anything in the tank other than some rubber bits and sediment. Not sure where the other metal piece got to, but I don't seem much of a need for it, so I'm not going to sweat it.

Ok guys, I'm sure this topic gets beaten to death about as much as Cherokee doors on an MJ does, but I couldn't find specifics for an '86. Anyway, I know that I will need either a '95-'96 XJ booster or a WJ booster and their respective MC's. What I need to know is will either of those be a bolt in affair for my '86 MJ? I've done the '95-'96 XJ booster swap on my '88 XJ with much success. I just want to be certain of it for my MJ. I should also mention that am going to be setting the brake system up like the XJs, ridding me of that level-sensing rear prop valve that is known to fail. I don't even have the linkage that connects the MJ prop valve to the rear axle, so it's just hanging there all willy-nilly. What all will I have to do to make all of this happen? Drop some knowledge on me CC! Thanks to all who can help!