onlyinajeep726

No, but if you have a link, post it! I'd like to read it and I'm sure other members here would too. Wonder what kind of power and MPG it could get.

Well, to be honest, you can run without it for a bit if the O-rings are new and snug. When I did the Ford 710's (yellow stick injectors), I couldn't run clips because they aren't designed to use clips. They never once leaked or caused me issues. Believe me, I checked every chance I had because the main reason for swapping them was because the stock Siemens injectors were leaking gas onto the exhaust manifold and I was afraid of a fire with my daughter in the car... Ran the 710's for almost 2 years with no problem.

Junkyard. Any of the 4.0 injector clips will work. As well as any off of a Neon/Stratus/Cirrus etc.

I saw that, but wasn't trying to do extra wiring... It may come to that though.

I need some help from y'all. I've been scouring the interwebz for most of the afternoon for a write up on the CS144 alternator upgrade for us Renix folks, to no avail... Perhaps I'm not putting in the correct parameters for the search, but I know this is a common upgrade, but I just haven't been able to find a definitive write up for it.

This pump: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=977307&cc=1181674 This strainer: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=976808&cc=1181674 This filter: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=360052&cc=1181674 Here's a discount code: 1931781116930525

Could be those then, but I don't know. Is your draglink at an extreme angle from the pitman arm down to the knuckle or is it good? I can't think of what else it really could be but I feel like based on what's been replaced, it really can't be the power steering stuff itself. I know on my '96 XJ (stock everything) it was sticking just like you said. Around town fine, but on long stretches of highway/interstate, it would feel like it was locked in to place and I really had to jerk the wheel to get it to turn (almost wrecked several times like that). Turns on my passenger-side, bottom ball joint was worn out. I wouldn't have thought it would have that bad of an influence on turning but it did, frighteningly enough.

Perhaps it has something to do with the steering linkages themselves or ball joints... I can't see how anything with the power steering system could be causing it considering you've replaced everything at least two times. Linkages and ball joints is where I'd start.

Couldn't you just pop in one of those electrical/fuse panel snap in knockout plugs? You can get one for less than a $1 at Home Depot...

Ok, if you're planning on swapping everything over from the '93 automatic XJ, then you should be fine. But that means everything, computer, wiring harnesses (inside and out, including dash harness), possibly the steering column, etc... You'll have to get your rear drive shaft shortened and you'll have to make a special pig tail to connect the XJ dash harness to the MJ rear fuel pump/tail light harness (simple). Here's the link to make that special wiring pig tail to adapt the XJ wiring to the MJ wiring: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18588-xj-dash-harness-to-rear-mj-harness-wiring-guides/ Otherwise, everything should be straight forward. Having a complete donor is always a good thing.

The AW4 automatic will bolt on fine, but the problem is the electronics. You'd have to swap your engine harness from one with an automatic and you'd have to have the appropriate TCM (transmission control module) to make it work. A far, far more involved swap than you probably want to get into. You couldn't use the '93 engine harness since it's OBD I and is not compatible with the Renix controlled stuff. Going from a manual to an automatic is 10x harder than from an automatic to a manual. You'd better off finding an AX-15.

Small issue... The majority of the guys I invited are on spring break starting that weekend. They've already said they wouldn't be able to go, so it may just be us. However, I too, am not sure if I'll be able to go for other reasons. I won't know for sure until I'm closer to that time. I really want to see that 5.9 though... Assuming I could even go, 12 noon would work better, because I don't want to get back late Sunday night as I have work on Monday. Noon time would give me some time to hang out and talk and then I could head out around 3pm or so.

Check your vacuum lines... :teehee: You might be there for a while. :wall: Probably best to let another member with 2.hate experience to chime in...

Yes, that's an AX-15 and yes it will fit.

What engine do you have and what year is your Jeep? That will help in identifying it. Edit: It looks a BA-10/5 5-speed, based on what I Googled, anyway. I'm assuming you have a 4.0L since the BA-10/5 is not found behind another other OEM engine offered by AMC/Jeep at that time. That puts your Jeep as a pre 1989.5 year model.

Can I invite a few of my XJ and offroading buddies? I have a few friends that live in Charlotte and the university region. I'm sure they'd love to see our MJs. Also, what time on Sunday? It's a 2.5 hour drive for me.

Someone posted something about that here recently... Same deal, half-assed factory welds.

It says to the right side of the page "1988 Comanche" and that it's an automatic...

Ambient air temperature sensor. It's for the overhead console and nothing more. Zip-tie it back up and call it a day.

I agree with JeepcoMJ... Unless you have something rare that no one here has heard of. Can you get some good pictures of the engine in question? I'd really like to see what it is.

I'll see what I can do. :thumbsup:

Concord Mills Mall is huge... I'd be down assuming I am not at work.

Here's the deal with adapting the XJ dash harness to the MJ rear harness: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18588-xj-dash-harness-to-rear-mj-harness-wiring-guides/

As others have said, check the battery terminals. Verify that the clamps on the post are tight and look for heavy corrosion. Also, verify the cables themselves have a solid connection to the terminals. Verify that the negative cable is making a good connection to the engine block. If corrosion and/or crude/grease/oil is saturating any part of the cable or terminal ends, then clean them really well. Baking soda and water work really well on the battery side of things and a good electrical contact cleaner and/or brake cleaner works well on the engine side of things. The negative cable should attach to a stud on the side of the engine close to the oil dipstick tube.

Where are you close to?