mvusse

Wilbur had mudflaps when I first got it. And yes, not knowing the rarity, they ended up going in the trash.

Tabs are different width, but in the same place? That's not what I remembered. Then again, more and more often I am reminded my memory is turning into Swiss cheese.

Lock cylinders are the same between 2 door and 4 door. They are not the same between 84-90 and 91-96.

2 door Cherokee doors are longer, to make it easier to get into the back seat.

91 through 96 Cherokee 4 door front doors are the same dimensions as our doors and are a dime a dozen in junk yards.

I wheel with a couple that each have their own Sammi. She has been running a VW diesel in hers for over a year now. One month she wheeled it with the original gas engine, one month later they had completed the diesel swap. Has a 3 gallon lawn mower fuel tank, and goes all weekend on that.

I got a Classic 2 Current floor pan for the driver side of Wilbur. Had to massage it a bit to fit correctly, but for the price, and it being 18 gauge, I think it's a good deal.

It is difficult to reach, but it is possible to get in there with an open end wrench.

The tab is in the hole of the door, and it locates in a slot on the lock cylinder. Sorry no pics.

The two keys are the same as GM 2 key sets (although originally with an AMC logo on them). The single key ones use standard Chrysler keys. 1991 is when the changeover should have happened, along with the HO engine and electronic speedometer. The lock cylinder holes on the doors are different. The hole is the same size and in the same location, but the little locating tab is in the wrong spot. I can't remember if it is off 90 degrees or 180 degrees, but putting an older lock cylinder in a newer door or vice versa, you won't be able to hook up the roods to actually make it work because it is in the wrong orientation. I ran into this when I looked for the most rust free door which ended up being the newer one to replace my driver side after it met a rock wall. After piddling with it for a good number of hours I put the Chrysler cylinder back in and locked it from inside, only being able to use the key on the passenger side.

Found it. The site also still lists the 3"and 4.5" lift springs. But the owner of Hell Creek posted up going out of business a few months back, so I would call them to be sure.

I just checked out their site, and I see no Comanche MT springs. Chevy/GMC springs only. However, fromt their site: I imagine they still have the specs for them, but you're probably going to have to pay quite a bit of $$$ to have them make one single pair of leaf packs. Another option would be addign an S10 or Dakota main leaf with the eyes cut off to your current spring pack. Should give you added capacity with a minimal amount of lift (maybe 1 or 2"), much like a MT pack.

And get a new battery.

I have had 4 Dana 30s under my Comanche. The first three were disconnect ones. Reinforce the lower control arm brackets (lots of sources for replacements, reinforcements, or skids which act as reinforcements) and I'm good to go. The last one was a non disconnect one. Second trip out the sheet metal passenger upper control arm bracket ripped off the axle. The bracket ripped about 1/2" above the weld. Replacement upper is not as easy to find or fabricate. That is just one reason why.

The seal goes in the axle tube right next to the diff. 11771 will work also, but it is a single lip seal and costs more than the 11800 double lip one.

NOS (Napa Oil Seal) 11800.

With rear disc brakes, take the load sensing valve out of the system and get a prop valve for something that has rear discs, like an Exploder or a ZJ. And yes, the dual diaphragm booster is a great upgrade, but the windshield washer reservoir will need to be moved forward a bit to clear it, and you will need to modify it to hook up to your brake pedal, unless you also swap the matching brake pedal in.

I would swap the axles. D30 is a bolt in affair, and shock mounts/spring perches for the rear axle are less money and labor than a gear change, even if the carriers do swap between C clip and non C clip. Yes, you already have the gears. But you will need two master install kits, a set of set-up bearings and a number of pricey new tools you will likely never use again.

The one i saw the owner paid good money to have it modified for 180 amp output a year earlier. He didn't want that money to go to waste.

10W30. I use either Quaker State Defy, or Mobil 1 high mileage. Both of those are still API SL. Despite what the oil companies say, API SM and SN are NOT backwards compatible. 4 cycle motorcycle oils are still API SJ because even SL doesn't have enough zddp for those engines, but it is usually only available as 10W40 or 15W40.

I ignored the leak on my 4.0 MJ for two years, finally got so bad I was losing a quart of oil over a month of street driving, or one day of hard wheeling. Turned out of be the RMS. Don't know what engine you have, but on a 4.0 it can be done without removing the engine or transmission. You do need to remove the oil pan, and you will need a RMS (obviously), oil pan gasket, and a tube of anaerobic RTV (Loctite 518, difficult to find in parts stores, but Summit Racing has it available through mail order).

A Renix alternator can be used on an HO enigne, but you'd need to change the wiring, and possibly use a Renix bracket. I have seen one used on a 99 based stroker.

Supposedly they were trying to jump *over* the pool. FAIL! And supposedly the Jeep is still running just fine. I call BS on that one.

Coolant expands when it gets hot. This build up pressure, and once the correct maximum pressure has been reached (16 pounds per square inch), the excess coolant and pressure is bled off into the overflow tank. The coolant being under pressure is also what keep it from boiling until ~265 degrees fahrenheit. But even when cold, there is supposed to be some coolant in the overflow tank.

The Spicer 5-760x are superior to anything else in their price range ($27). Next step up would be Alloy USA's chromoly ones for $50. These have a low profile grease fitting in each cap and come with both C clips and full circle clips. Next after that would be CTM for $239. Another option around the problem with the C clips is to tack weld the caps in place so even if a clip come off, the cap stays in place. If the joint needs removed it only take s a minute to grind the welds off.