mvusse

Peugeot BA-10/5 is not listed The power/comfort switch was there from the very beginning of the AW4 in 1987. It disappeard in 1991 with the HO engines with the transmission always in "power" mode. All the info I have seen points to Selec-Trac not having been an option on the Comanche for 87-92. Optional in 1986 only using the 228. I believe the vacuum disconnect disappeared some time during 1991. Also ABS Cherokees always came with the larger u-joints. Was ABS optional in the Comanche as well, or not available? D44 was available through 1992. Came with the towing package, came with the metric-tonne package, or could be optioned separately as "heavy duty rear axle". 4.10 came with the 2.5L engine with 5 speed overdrive transmission. 2.5L engine with 4 speed manual transmission had 3.55 gears in the axles.

If the rear axle is a Dana 35, it could break just from looking at it.... AX15 and Peugeot were only available behind the 4.0. So the choices for transmission are AX5 or T5.

Even running 33x12.50 tires on stock gearing and more than 6" of lift I still got 18mpg running ~80 mph for close to 400 miles. Having a CB radio is a great way to learn where the speed traps are.

I corrected my original posts as the difference is two teeth. Since the speedometer gears are in the neighborhood of 30 teeth, one tooth more or less makes about a 3% difference. If (I'm assuming at high speed) you're off about 5mph with the 225 tires, then you have a speedometer gear for 205 tires. I run 235 on a truck that had originally 205 and when the speedometer reads 70 I'm actuallly going 75. Besides changing the speedometer gear (about $60 for the gear, not too difficult to install) there is no calibration possible for the speedometer. There should be a tag bolted to the diff cover with the ratio stamped in it. Even if the tag is still there it is probably not readable anymore because of 27 years of rust. Alternative way is to shift the transmission into neutral, jack up one rear tire and rotate it by hand 2 turns. If the drive shaft goes around three and a half turns you have 3.55 gears, three and three quarter turns is 3.73 and a bit over four is 4.10. My guess is that you have 4.10 gears, but Eagle seems to think 3.73 is more likely. alright, what happens if i end up havin open diffs instead of a limited slip? could that mean i have a different gearin or same math involved, and i was readin my haynes manual and it mentioned a T5 and T4 tranny, along with the AX4 and 5, what's the difference between the two? Redwolf Open diff or limited slip has no effect on gear ratio. Limited slip is basically a clutch system between the spider gears to force power to the other wheel when one wheel is on ice or in mud. Haynes is not an authority on anything. But there is a rumor Jeep may have used T4 and T5 transmissions instead of the AX4 and AX5 when supply was running low in early Cherokees and Comanches. I have never seen one yet, though.

It's probably been narrowed two fit the Comanche better. As for the comment about gas mileage, when it was still stock 5 years ago my 87 4.0 automatic got 24mpg on the highway any day as long as I kept the speed down to 60mph. IMO, for the age of the truck and the power of the engine that was pretty good.

Just like with aluminum rims. I retorque them after 10 miles of driving, then again after 100. I also check them at each oil change or tire rotation.

I corrected my original posts as the difference is two teeth. Since the speedometer gears are in the neighborhood of 30 teeth, one tooth more or less makes about a 3% difference. If (I'm assuming at high speed) you're off about 5mph with the 225 tires, then you have a speedometer gear for 205 tires. I run 235 on a truck that had originally 205 and when the speedometer reads 70 I'm actuallly going 75. Besides changing the speedometer gear (about $60 for the gear, not too difficult to install) there is no calibration possible for the speedometer. There should be a tag bolted to the diff cover with the ratio stamped in it. Even if the tag is still there it is probably not readable anymore because of 27 years of rust. Alternative way is to shift the transmission into neutral, jack up one rear tire and rotate it by hand 2 turns. If the drive shaft goes around three and a half turns you have 3.55 gears, three and three quarter turns is 3.73 and a bit over four is 4.10. My guess is that you have 4.10 gears, but Eagle seems to think 3.73 is more likely.

Umm, no. Both my 87 MJs came from the factory with 3.55 gears (2.5/AX4 and 4.0/AW4). The 2.5 came with 205/75R15 and the 4.0 came with 225/75R15. And they came with different speedometer gears to make them as accurate as possible with that tire size. The difference is only 1 tooth, but still different. Correction: the difference is two teeth.

4.4% wider. But the diameter and circumference are only 2.1% larger. So assuming the tires measure what they are supposed to and the speedometer is accurate, with the speedometer reading 60 you would be going 61.3.

With the 2.8V6 it is almost certainly an AX5. The 235 tires will be less than 1/2" wider and a little over 1/2" taller (little over 1/4" more from the center to the tread). Not much difference to speak of, and nothing the engine or transmission will worry about. There is a possibility you might just barely rub the lower control arms at full lock steering.

On a side topic, Ohio is trying to move to a single license plate, saving the state $1.3M annually. The House is supposed to vote on it some time after they return from summer recess (which can be anywhere between mid September and Early October).

The chart has some inaccuracies and omissions. The second from the bottom line lists Wrangler JK 80-06. This should say Wrangler YJ, TJ 86-06. Liberty KJ reads 02-up. This should read 02-07. Don't now about 17 or 18, never seen them, but the 16" rims are 16x7. Need to add a line for Liberty KK 08-up which uses the 5 on 5 bolt pattern, unlike the earlier ones. XJ and Comanche list only 15x6 wheels, but 15x7 was just as common from the factory. 00 and 01 XJs supposedly even came with optional 16x7 rims (rare, never personally seen). Some specific packages including possibly 98 Unlimited or maybe even all 98 ZJ Grand Cherokees came with 16x7 rims.

Off topic, but the Dana 30 is an American made axle, and the hole is for use with a standard 3/8" drive ratchet or extension.....

Not true. You're thinking of side-post batteries. The studs on a blue-top Optima are adjacent to the top terminals and they're fine for heavy loads such as winching. This is true for the side posts on the yellow top AND the 5/16" threaded posts on the blue top. Optima customer service specifically advises AGAINST using the 5/16" threaded posts on the blue top for a winch connection.

Supposedly the wheels will interfere with the steering tie rod ends. Forgot to verify this before I had my centers cut out, though. A friend of mine is running stock hummer wheels, but he is running a dual rear wheel front D60 which is about 77" wms to wms.

We have to see the back of the tach circuit board to tell if it has the potentiometer. Based on the design of the speedo dial, I suspect you have the early style cluster, which does not have the potentiometer. Some do. My 87 4 cylinder has a tack out of an 87 6 cylinder Wagoneer, and it did have the potentiometer to adjust it. Took me a lot of trial and error over a week's time to get it to read correctly based on GPS verified speed and speed to rev calculations.

The body of a Comanche is wider in the rear than the front. To get the wheels to look even, even with the same width axles, takes 1.5" spacers already. My daughter's Cherokee runs 32x10.50 tires (265/75R16) on stock Liberty 16x7 rims with about 3" of lift. That was the only way to fit them inside the flairs, but they do rub on the control arms when turning, and just barely fit. I actually had to cut some of the plastic away on the inside bottom corners of the flairs, but not visible from outside. 4-5" of lift may work a bit better. On a 3" wider axle, you will have to bump stop to keep them off the top of the flairs during uptravel. I suggest against 33x12.50 tires unless you lift 6.5" front, SOA rear. I tried to run 33" tires on 4.5" front lift and could not keep them out of the front and back of the flairs when turning. That was on 15x8 wheels with 4" BS. 33x10.50 may work better but are a more difficult to find size. Currently I'm riding jackstands while swapping in a full width D60 with 37s on recentered Hummers. Don't know yet how well they clear the fenders, but I believe the point may be moot as they will sit almost completely outside the body.

Around here Advance and Autozone are pretty competitive on their prices. The only other chain local to me is Napa, which is outrageously expensive compared to the other two. Completely redoing front brakes (new rotors, pad and calipers) was less than $150 from Autozone. Napa was over $300. The motor mounts are $18 with a lifetime warranty. Rockauto is less than half that, but then I have to wait for them to arrive in the mail.

I like my Duralast 8 year warranty one I put in my Suburban, but can't testify to its durability as I got rid of it 4 years later. Lately I have been buying the Walmart brand (Everlast or something) batteries because I absolutely needed one after everybody else was closed. The last one I installed under a light pole in the Walmart parking lot. They don't seem to be any worse than other brands.

Stock replacements from Autozone.

Don't believe ANYTHING Rough Country says. They do not have a very good reputation when it comes to quality. If they can't make the parts right, what makes you think they can engineer a lift kit right? There are differences between XJs and MJs that matter. A lot of lift kit manufacturers either don't realize this, or just don't care.

The transfer case drop might have actually been the problem. http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/

I ran 8" rear lift on my MJ without a transfer case drop and never had a problem. Our driveshafts are long enough that it's simply not needed. And it makes the front driveshaft angle worse.

Dropping the cross member puts a lot of strain on the engine mounts, making them wear out faster and messes up the rear driveshaft angles. You now need to turn up the pinion to get them aligned again. The only thing it fixes is the front driveshaft if you're using a Wrangler transmission and don't want to clearance the truck floor for the double cardan joint. Even on shorter vehicles with a lot of lift, it should only be a temporary solution until a permanent fix like a SYE can be installed.

My non rusty tank I offered is only 4 years old. 23.5 gallon tank will NOT fit under a swb Comanche.