mvusse

Evidently he doesn't know what he is doing. If he was trying to do a factory restore that he thinks might warrant $20k, it needs to be factory original. No cap, no dual exhaust. But it's a Comanche. Even a barn find with 2 miles on the odometer is not worth $20k.

Every alternator I have had on my 4.0, the brushes are not meant to be replaced. To get to them means to dismantle the alternator about 90%. If the alternator is bad, buy a reman lifetime warranty 100 amp alternator for $65.

And pictures can absolutely help.

As far as I know, only Ford uses high pinion Dana 60s. Chevy and Dodge are low pinion.

Terrible clicking sound makes me think a broken u joint.

When I was floating on the body in a silt pit I ranmy 10k winch through a snatch block on the front of a friends Jeep tied off to a tree and back to my bumper. I didn't have enough cable to reach the tree itself, and single line pull I stalled out the winch pushing 3 cubic yards of silt in front of my truck. Originally he tried to winch me out, but he ended up melting his battery post away. Lots of creaking with people making bets on whether or not my bumper would come off before I ripped my buddy's frame in half. Did eventually make it out with my bumper still attached and his frame still intact.

Early 86 does have a different firewall, and it needs a little massaging with a sledge hammer to clear a 4.0. Later in 86 they started using the 87 firewall which was designed to fit a 4.0. Sounds like your 86 is one of the later ones.

I wonder what he tied off to to keep his truck from sliding.

I would have bought one if I didn't already have an XRC10 on my bumper.

DOT3 isn't corrosive to metal. But it will completely dissolve the fuse block.

From that Fra-gee-lay company?

Third row seat would be difficult without stretching it more. Or maybe a YJ or TJ rear seat between the rear fenders?

Yeah i saw that and was thinking about it, but DEFINATLY not $1000, i would go up there in my MJ and say "You see that pretty black Comanche? I bought that one the way it is running for $1000." Oh wow, bedsides without holes! :drool:

Once you have posted something, you can edit it to delete the text, but you can't delete the post. I posted it before my brain started working. Then went back a few minutes later to delete it, but it can't be done.

I have never owned an Up Country. Every Cherokee I have driven sitting higher than stock either had a transfer case drop or a sye. As far as lubrication, the earlier transfer cases lubricated the slip yoke internally. As in the transmission fluid from the transfer case kept it lubricated with an oil seal arounf the yoke to keep the fluid from leaking out. On the newer transfer cases the output shaft is sealed and the slip yoke is lubricated with grease, with a rubber boot over it to keep the grease from being flung off.

Engine harness is completely different between the two and will need to be changed. ECU is different as well. Chassis harness and I believe dash harness should be the same. The 2.5 would have an AX4 in it. The sending unit should be the same, although the length of the rod on the float might be different. The pumps are different and you will have to swap the 4.0 pump along with the engine, either by swapping the entire sending unit, or by swapping the pump onto the swb sending unit. You should also swap the front springs because the 4.0 springs have a higher spring rate than the 2.5 ones.

No, that is the brace for the lower control arm mount. The bolt head should be about 1" beyond that hole. Although I think I can see the tip of the bolt, in which case the nut is about 1" beyond the hole.

Never mind. Posted before thinking and the software does not have a delete feature.

Even on the internally lubricated output shafts the shaft is the same length and the bearing is just as far back in the case. No personal experience with the vibrations you talk about, but I think it is more likely because people do not keep the slip yoke greased. The only two cases I have had like that are a 1998 242 out of a ZJ that was under Sparkles until last week, and a loaner 2000 231 that is under it now, both with a hack-n-tap sye. On a side note, on a 231 the front output shaft is 26 spline and smaller than the 27 spline rear output shaft. A 242 on the other end has a huge 32 spline front output shaft and the same 27 spline rear output the 231 has. The heavy duty 231 sye kits (I have one in Wilbur) replace the rear output shaft with one having the same 32 spline output the front on a 242 does. And on a second side note: Tom Woods has a great warranty on their drive shafts, and people who have run them have been happy with them. But I will never buy a 242 with a sye from him. It is a hack-n-tap, but instead of using a custom 27 spline yoke, he turns the shaft down and cuts new splines to be able to use a 26 spline front yoke meant for a 231.

Do not get 2000 or 2001. Those were low pinion.

On top of what has been said above, this should be a low pinion D44. Despite larger gears, strength is only marginally better than a high pinion D30 because the gears will be rotating the wrong way (running on the coast side instead of the drive side).

96 was an odd year. Early 96 models have OBD II piggybacked on the old OBD I harness. It is a kludge, and the worst splice job I have seen come out of the factory. Later 1996 models use the 1997 harness. I found this out when I swapped out Sparkles (early 1996) 2wd AW4 for a late 1996 4wd AW4 out of a parts Cherokee I had acquired. I swapped in the new transmission complete with bellhousing and CPS. Then I found out the CPS used a different plug than what my harness had. Ended up using 7 extensions and two universal joints to swap it without having to drop the tansmission again.

Being from Florida and Colorado (OP), you may have never seen road salt. My off road rig looks like that when it still had the bed on. Large rust holes above both wheels and in front of the driver side rear tire all the way to fuel door. Frame is still in good shape. Wildman used to drive an MJ where the fender flare was seemingly floating in mid air because there was no sheetmetal left around it on the outer bed side. Again, the frame was still good.

To just top it off, pry the rubber plug out with a screw driver, top off with GL-5 gear oil, buy new plug from parts store. $2.99 at Autozone, similarly cheap everywhere else.

Three years ago I wheeled with a Toyota who lost his clutch. Wheeled half a day without it.