mvusse

00 and 01 Cherokees were also low pinion.

2.5. More HP, comparable torque and way better fuel economy.

From the grin on his face, definitely.

Hope you got the witness' contact info and take it to court.

WHEN you have actual death wobble, you will know it. The only thought going through your head is "I'M GONNA DIE!!!!!" as the truck tries to shake itself apart so hard the fillings will fall out of your teeth. I'm thinking what you have would be death wobble if it wasn't kept in check by the steering stabilizer. Unbolt the stabilizer and take it for a spin.... Have somebody in the truck with both feet on the brake to keep the front wheels from rolling while turning the steering from left to right and back again, over and over while you are underneath the truck looking at everything that moves, including parts that shouldn't. My guess it you'll find a problem with the track bar bracket, either frame or axle end. Also jack the truck up with the front wheels in the air and try to move the wheels to see if there is a problem with the unit bearing or ball joints.

On short bed Comanches, the pins are supposed to behind the axle, on long bed they are in front of the axle. The plates are the same between lwb and swb, just flipped around between left and right.

Later 2wd models used a dummy axle tube with the same knuckles, rotors, calipers and unit bearings as 4wd models with a dummy shaft holding the unit bearing together. Don't know what year the changeover was, though. The only difference between early 4wd and later 2wd/4wd calipers was along with the caliper bracket bolting onto the knuckle and the caliper bracket being part of the knuckle casting. Don't know anything about early 2wd parts.

On a stock MJ, the shocks mount to the u bolt plates. If your's is not stock we need pictures.

That does sound like a torn diaphragm. Like Hornbrod I swapped in a 96 booster. Got around the needed modification by swapping in the 96 pedal assembly along with it and splicing the 96 pedal switch harness into my 87 wiring.

If you're staying with the a stock style driveshaft, the pinion angle does not change depending on the length and height of the pinion. It needs to be PARALLEL to the transmission or transfer case output shaft. Technically it needs to be 2 or so degrees below so it will be parallel under load on the highway. So "mirror this" will be correct.

So now what is it, 87, or Olympic edition (88)? 87 JEEP 87 JP MJ JEEP MJ MANCHE JP TRK

I have never seen a Comanche (or Cherokee) that came factory with 195 width tires even though they are listed in my tire pressure chart in the glove box. AFAIK 235 never came on them from the factory, but 99% out there on the road have them because it is the most common tire size out there. The first number is the section width (not the tread) in mm. The second number is the section height as a percentage of the width, the third number is the rim size in inches. P225/75R15 is the largest tire that is guaranteed to fit with no rubbing whatsoever. A lot of people can get away with P235/75R15, but when they are brand new, and depending on the brand and model tire as well as the specific vehicle (even though they should be the same, not all are exactly the same) they might slightly rub the lower control arms under full lock steering. Be mindful that a different tire size will make the speedometer be off. I run P235/75R15 on my daily driver that should have P205/75R15. When the speedometer reads 70, I'm actually going 75.

As far as fitting Grand Cherokee disc brakes on an 8.25, all I had to do was drill out the 2.75" center hole to 3" to fit on the larger axle tube. Bolt holes lined up perfectly on the flange.

In Ohio you need to have a registration in your name to obtain a new title. The new title will also state it is a duplicate, so if somebody else comes up with an original title to your vehicle, theirs trumps yours.

If you find your way over to Ohio you're free to drive the Purple People Eater. 2.5/5 speed, but geared for the 4 speed. So forget that 5th exists and imagine it still has a 4 speed (as the ratios for 1st through 4th are the same).

WRONG! The Durango steering box is stronger than a Cherokee or Comanche one, but they don't steer any further. Some can actually steer the same amount, but most have to be modified internally just to match the limits of the stock XJ ones. Less backspacing might help keep the tires off the control arms, but can cause problems with the tires hitting the fender flares. Aftermarket or WJ lower control arms will help keep the tires off also, but as noted above, you're still limited by the steering stops on the axle.

You're still going to hit the steering stops on the axle, though.

:thumbsup:

SOA is covered in the very first post of this thread.

KK Jeep Liberty is now out. FC is mentioned toward the end, but FC150 and FC170 are already mentioned separately earlier.

The resistor is bypassed on startup (and under wide open throttle), so it should at least run for a second after turning the key on, and during starting. You say you checked the relay. Did you check to see if the relay is good, or did you check to see if the relay gets power during cranking (or for a second after turning the key on)? No spark is usually a bad CPS.

I got a good set of stock uppers, possibly two or three sets. Don't know what the bushings look like, but will check when I make it to the shop later this morning. You can have them for the cost of shipping.

Yes, I do drive other vehicles. Besides a Jeep Comanche I also have another Jeep Comanche and a Jeep Cherokee. I also have a 91 GMC Vandura camper, it has AC Delco plugs in it after I learned from my 94 Suburban. Bosch plugs did great in my Suburban, for about 2 months. They worked great in my Geo, for about a year, and they didn't work worth a crap in my Renix 4.0, inconsistent idle and random misfires, even after rechecking the gaps and then trying another set to see if I got a defective batch. They were the last plugs before I changed to the stock copper Champion ones after replacing the distributor cap, rotor, wires and coil did not fix my problems.

I have tried a number of different types of spark plugs, and at least for my Renix 4.0, it seems to run best with the good old copper Champion plugs. I had the same problem with my 94 Suburban. After spending oodles of money of 7 different brands and types of spark plug, it ran best with the stock AC Delco ones, and they were the only ones that lasted more than 6 months. I'm sure there's a lot of good science behind new spark plug technologies, I'm also sure a lot of it is hyped beyond factuality. I will stick with stock replacement from three years ago on.

Despite what they say about improving driveshaft angles, this will actually make the driveshaft angles incorrect causing vibration. A lot of lift part manufacturers either don't know or don't care about the physics behind driveshaft angles and u joints.