mvusse

4.0 swap means replacing the upper and lower radiator supports, possibly massaging the firewall a bit with a hammer (supposedly some late 86s already had the newer firewall to fit a 4.0), fuel pump, and entire engine bay wiring harness. Then in addition to the motor you need to swap the radiator (plus pressure bottle?), air cleaner and possibly accessories like alternator and power steering pump. If you get a 4.0HO, it will also mean the fuel sender, entire dash wiring harness and splicing it into the rear harness somehow. You would be rewiring 3/4 of the entire truck if not more.

Forgot about the front axle disconnect saving you. The step by step procedures in my 87 manual will put the transfer case in neutral with the front axle disengaged. I have run a CAD delete for so long I completely forgot about it. My 94 does not have a CAD axle, and also does not have a true neutral. Don't know about 242 cases as I never had one (yet). But AFAIK they were never available in an MJ.

Depending on what perches you use usually 5"-5.5". Most people pair SOA with 6.5" front lift for a level truck (no rake).

Some of the people I wheel with used the Guard Dog in a 33" and have never had a problem. Too bad they had to abandon that size. Guy I work with runs the 31" on his Dakota and got 3 years out of them on pavement. Will get a set of 31s for Sparkles once the build is finished. The tread is a copy of the old Goodyear MT/R. Don't know about the other ones, though (Crawler MT, Warden AT, ATG, Puma and whatever else they have).

Guess I'll never win this battle... :headpop: Sorry Marcel but this is not true. It's been proven time and time again... I have proof sitting in my driveway. Neither my 87 Comanche nor my 94 Cherokee have a true neutral. Come over for a visit and I'll show you.

231 Transfer cases before 1995 did not have a true neutral. In the neutral setting the front and rear drive shafts are connected. Do this on a dolly = VERY VERY BAD. At a minimum you would grenade the transfer case. Leave the transmission and transfer case in whatever setting you prefer. Pulling the rear drive shaft is the best and easiest way to dolly it.

Rebuild the first four gears in the AX5 with parts from your AX4.

Belt squeeling could be a loose belt, a seized pulley, or too much load on an accessory. Blown fuse means a short somewhere, and wiggling the positive wire means either corrosion between the clamp and the post, loose clamp, or bad wire. Start with the battery cable and the belt, and go from there. An intermittent short in the dash wiring can be near impossible to track down, though.

I'm still on CC as often as ever, but don't nearly post as much as I used to anymore. So despite having been a very active user, I'm more of a lurker nowadays. Take this thread for example: I have seen it pop up numerous times over the past week. Today was the first time I actually read it. Groups and a imagine forums as well, will eventually fade and die out. Would that happen in a few years, or a decade or longer? I have no clue. When I bought mu Suburban in 2001 I joined several Yahoo Suburban groups. One was very active with ~50 people making multiple posts a day including myself). It stayed like that for 3 or 4 years. Then over the span of 6 months it died out to about 1 post total per month, and those were usually new people either with a question or introducing themselves.

I wonder how far a 3000 pound vehicle can stretch a 6" wide strap to help with the snatch action.

Congrats!

Can't look worse than mine. Only thing holding it together is the trailer hitch which is bolted to both the frame and the bumper.

May very well be. My XJ was doing the rattling, but no clunking or popping/ Turned out all 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate had backed out a few turns.

Both my axles looked like chocolate milk last week. Front axle has been rebuilt three months ago,, and no leaking seals. Don't know how it got in. Rear axle probably came in through the breather tube as the water was over the bed floor, so definitely over the frame rail where the breather ends.

Same here running Firefox on Fedora Core Linux, but really not that bad. Than again, I'm running a rather high resolution with small text.

i know about the bolts not being too torqued down but filling? idk what that means????? What he means is after putting the cover back on, wait until the next day to fill the diff back up with gear oil. Personally, I have never had a problem using either blue or red sealant and filling the diff directly after installing the cover. And I seem to be changing the gear oil about monthly because I somehow usually end up with water in at least one of the axles after a weekend off road. My daughter (14 years old) likes deep water and mud pits WAY too much.

A few years ago maybe. Try $1k. I believe (all) ZJs with the 318/5.2l came with 3.73 gears, and the front axle should be a direct swap, although they are low pinion axles.

Unless you are going to run huge tires, the D60 is so big it will act like an anchor every time it gets hung up on a rock. Jimmy is in love with the 8.8 for reasons unknown to me. Yes, it is a good axle. No it is not the holy grail. I vote for a 97+ (some 96 as well, but not all) 8.25". They are easy to find, inexpensive, correct width, correct wheel bolt pattern, correct yoke and correct parking brake hook up, and plenty strong enough.

Fleabay = ebay.com.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php

The headlight or tail light is grounding out through the turn signal bulb and instrument indicator. That means you have a bad/missing ground. Most likely in the front wiring harness or plug.

Shaving the deck will lower the volume of the combustion chamber, increasing compression, but it does not change the displacement. Only factors affecting displacement are number of cylinders, stroke length and cylinder diameter. A 3.1l engine with a shaved deck still displaces 3.1l.

My bad. Was not aware that diesel had a turbocharger.

Seller contradicts himself. Is it the Renault 2.1 (which was stock engine), or is it a turbo diesel (which was never offered in the USA)?

I have had no problems with the stock covers. Did flatten half the head on the bottom most bolt on a rock once, though. Used an open end wrench to remove it, and got a new bolt ($0.08).