GirsMJ86

Yes, one with a cutout for the floor console. And one without. Mine has the cutout. You can see it here, partially hidden below the console. It doesn't go back much farther though.

What ParadiseMJ said basically. I've never had an MJ with a factory liner, so I've always just made my own using duct work bubble wrap insulation and headliner fabric from JoAnnes. Found out on my first one I did that the weaker 3M spray adhesive doesn't hold up to the temperature changes well and had to start using the stronger stuff. 77 or whatever it is.

Well without a picture, real name of the wheel, or what material it's almost anyone's guess. I'm going to rule out aluminum though since you're wanting to paint them, and because of the black center caps. So I'm guessing they are the basic steel ones also since you mention they are already silver and that is what those were. Just for future reference, there were at least two different steel wheels and four aluminum wheels. Maybe more, I'm tired so my count might be off. And BTW, I'm only counting stock MJ wheels. I'd just buy some silver rustoleum and spray it all. You're not going to be playing touch-up on wheels. One can would probably even give all four at least two coats. Doubt the factory color was documented anywhere because I've never seen a color listed for wheels on color charts.

Yea, those are XJ seats. Same seat as the Eliminators, but different headrest.

Are your original flares trashed? I don't think that was ever really answered. If you're just looking for all new ones because of the busted retainer brackets, those brackets are not even needed. Like I said above, stainless bolts, washers, and nuts work just as well if not better since they will never rust. Can't even tell they are there if you have the molding that fills the gap, or paint them black. I've done it to three MJs and will be doing it either before or after winter on the rig I'm picking up Monday, whether it needs it or not. Have you tried posting in the wanted section if you actually are in need of new flares, or even the brackets if you feel they are a requirement.

No matter how much we all want them to be, MJs are just not worth that kind of money. You want to make money on an MJ, you better have an Archer truck. Though not sure how much you'd actually make in the end since you probably paid a pretty penny in the beginning.

FEY bumper

Yup, those tan ones are exactly what the blue ones in my old '86 looked like. And the bottoms are what both Eliminators looked like, minus the covers. Which appear to be exactly like the XJ ones in the rig I'm picking up Monday, just with solid headrests.

Really? :hmm: Weren't the Eliminator buckets different from the standard buckets? My '88 and '91 Eliminators had the same bucket style but my old '86 had buckets as well but didn't have the same design. It's been so long so I can't recall exactly, but pretty sure they didn't hug as well, maybe the seats in my Eliminators had bigger bolsters or something similar to the XJ seats. There were never leathers in an MJ, vinyl and cloth/vinyl only. Same for bench seats, though covering material didn't play into the actual shape/design of the seats from what I've seen.

Will be interesting but I'm wondering what seats you have. There are at least two different bench styles and two different bucket styles.

I've never looked into anything except the traditional style, but maybe something for an older Dakota would work. As far as putting them in front of the wheel well, if you found the right size those style can go in front or behind the wheel wells, you just flip flop the side they would be on if they were behind (passenger on the driver side and vice versa). Anything meant for a full size truck would stick up too far I would think. If you build one doing the lid would be easy enough. The lid just uses a large hinge and has an inch of so that overlaps a raised lip all the way around the box. Basically you'd build the box with a removable lid, then add a hinge. Doing a quick search I found the box you show above that is listed as for the MJ. Could be where you found your image. HERE There are also THESE and THESE. Comparing measurements would be the only way to see if they would fit.

I'd say it's ridiculous out there in CO. Here in OH though, I'd be all over that thing if I needed it. I'd of course try to get him cheaper, and I'd be hard pressed to pay 450, but I'd do 300 without feeling like I overpaid or anything. Of course it would then need to be blasted and rust proofed or in just a couple years the investment would be right back to square one when compared to the one it probably replaced.

Always wondered how that exact paint scheme would look on an MJ, sadly I can't say I'm much of a fan. I guess yellow is just purely a Wrangler thing in my eyes. For your new idea, I've always been a huge fan of those '86 4x4 hockey stick decals and have wanted to get them reproduced for a long time, but Waggy style sides and the rest a dark blue would be really sweet too. Not sure what color your interior is, but the dark blue Waggy look would go great with the factory tan interior.

There is a set of the newer style ones on ebay right now I believe. And I'm sure there are guys around here that can provide you with some. In fact I will be taking them off the rig I'm getting within the next week and looking for the all caps ones. I'd be willing to do a trade if you've got a set of equal condition.

No clue if this would be the right section or not, mods feel free to move. Last ditch effort to make picking up a SWB MJ and spare bed easier than driving out and then driving the MJ back with the spare bed strapped on top of the truck, going across I-80 for 430 miles. Fuel and food will be paid round trip within reason, or you are welcome to the factory LWB roll bar I have for sale plus 1-200 compensation.

My dad had the fluid in the transmission of his Exploder sucked out through the filler tube shortly after buying it and afterwards it seemed to shift smoother. It of course doesn't have anywhere near 161k but that's probably the first time the fluid was ever changed. I say go for it since you don't know the maintenance at all.

And yet I should be able to sell my factory LWB roll bar with brackets for several hundred... which is more then some people paid for their whole truck it seems. :laughin:

The X emblems are pretty rare to come across anymore. Side note, if you're sticking the 350 emblems on a Jeep, you should look into finding some actual Jeep 350 emblems from the old FSJ Gladiators and such that had the 350 for a few years. I'm sure someone on IFSJA or FSJNetwork could scrounge up a pair. I think just the V8 350 part would look good with the '86 style Comanche emblems like in my avatar. They went on the nose like this:

Where in NJ are you btw? Not sure how far you're willing to drive, or what your price range is, but I'm heading to Scranton soon to pickup a truck and could bring the roll bar with me if I take a truck to trailer it home rather than just ride the bus out and drive it back. If the truck doesn't sell soon and I pull it, you pay shipping costs and you can borrow them. Unless 86_mj there buys it of course.

Wow, 10 years to find one and then he hacks it down? Maybe I should just keep the one on the truck I'm selling just in case I ever get a LWB again so that I'd have factory LWB and SWB ones, or sell it with brackets separately from the truck...

When you consider though that it is a V6 rather than a 4cyl, that power and such is very weak. It makes the exact same power and the 2.5L which is a 4cyl. Well okay, not the EXACT same power since I believe it had 7hp less than the 2.5 with only marginal gain in torque of 15 or so. It also has a 2bbl carb rather than TBI like the 2.5. For reference the 2.5 made something like 117hp and 135 torque. Compare that to the 4.0 the next year which added 63hp to the 6cyl offering (173hp), fuel injection, better fuel efficiency, and 220 torque. And of course both the 2.5 and 4.0 are very reliable and can go over 300k without being rebuilt. Doubt there is a single 2.8 in existence that has pulled that off.

Not to hi-jack your thread, but man that glass is dark. Can't believe that was factory. Out of curiosity, anyone know what the tint level was on that stuff?

Where does this guy come up with this stuff? :rotf: Experience.

Couldn't have said it better, Don. That right there is what makes this group so awesome. :cheers:

There isn't anything more he would need though since his speedo cable will work even on the electronic speedo t-case. I guess I should have specified what I meant a bit better? I just was starting there was nothing more he would need since the t-case setup for electronic output by wire is no different than the ones that use the cable. You essentially just yank out the one connector and swap for the other no matter new to old or old to new t-case. That still isn't worded well... I'm going to bed.