GirsMJ86

No info on it at all. Wheels, brush guard, thing on top of the cab, all the decals... they all need to go. And honestly I think it needs a paintjob to make it uniform in color and fix some chips that have turned to rust. For $1000 though it might be worth it if there aren't any mechanical issues and the 4x4 works.

The only thing you'll find is that FEY diamond plate step bumper... or off-road style bumpers. You might get lucky and find a factory one on ebay, or a member willing to sell theirs, but there is very little support out there for the box end of these trucks. Even the FEY bumpers are getting hard to find and most off road places don't support the MJ. JCR is one of the only places I can think of off the top of my head for a rear bumper, it requires some assembly though since it just comes as stamped flat steel that needs bent and welded.

4.7 for a '93 S-10? Didn't think that was an option. I know they could be gotten with the 2.5 I4, 2.8 60* V6, or 4.3 90* V6. They were all TBI and the 4.3 could also be got in CPI which net the vehicle about 20 more hp or so IIRC.

I was just going to update the first post later when I got home today but since you two brought it back to the top I'll just post here for now. I'm just going to be scrapping this truck at a later date since I've decided it is going to require more work than I feel it is worth. The more I've dug into it the more issues I've found. So with that decision I no longer need any parts except what will be left listed above later today that could be used on another truck.

My current rig has the stock chrome bumper but it's trashed because the PO pulled something with it. It's not the worse I've seen from a pull using a bumper, but it still makes me sad because of how hard it will be to replace. No way would I pull something on an stock MJ bumper just because of how rare they are. If you can't find a true receiver hitch anymore, they would be super easy for a shop to make if you took them your truck.

IDK if the price would get dropped to say... $500 it would be worth it just to grab the engine and tranny and put the body to rest in a crusher. But the guy is clearly tripping on something thinking anyone but him would drive that, and pay his stupid asking price.

The Eliminator rims were only on Eliminators, which the Eliminator didn't come out until '88 so was not even an option in '86. They look good cleaned up. In '86 you had two or three steel sets and the one alloy set, the turbines. Another set of Jeep wheels that look really good on an MJ are Canyons from a Grand. Had a set of those on my '91 Eliminator and they looked right at home. If you're not interested in having those turbines shipped I might go grab those, been looking for a set forever. Shame they don't have the caps though, those are harder to find than the wheels.

Alrighty, thanks guys. I'll give trying to back the brakes off on the one to see if that'll let it spin and break out the torch to try and heat things up to get them off and check back in if it all worked or not. Might not be until next week though.

What does everyone have against the Eliminator all of a sudden? I frikkin' love that trim name, as I'm sure most others around here do too. Everyone else though seems to have just discovered it and are picking it apart like it was the worst named vehicle ever, claiming it to be insensitive or whatever. I'll take that Eliminator and drive it proudly, after I fix the grille. I agree on the COD:MW3 Wrangler though, why Jeep would want to have a tie-in with one of the worst game series is beyond me. They wanted to do something cool? They should have done something like Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Evil Dead Edition, or some other zombie themed package. Couldn't they have picked the Ford Probe Wild Orchid Edition or something as number one...

Try rockauto.com, you may also get lucky and find the real ones on ebay now and then. The link above is awesome as well. I have both of mine still from when I use to owned a '91 and let me tell ya, you are going to want at least these two: "Electrical, Heating-AC, & Emissions" and the other is for "Engine, Chassis, & Body". I don't have the wiring diagram one shown above, but I'm sure it could come in handy (although the "Electrical..." book has diagrams in it as well so not sure what it is missing compared to the other book). $180 for all three isn't too bad from what I've seen some single books go for, unless you get really lucky on ebay.

So I decided I should put air in my tires and turn them all so I don't end up with flat spots since the tires are brand new and the truck doesn't move. I got the front two off without any issues, but the trouble started in with the back ones. The driver side one appears to be rust fused to the drum, and no amount of kicking or hitting with a rubber mallet was going to break it free. I didn't have the time to crawl around and soak it with penetrating oil then wait, so I put the truck in neutral and turned it so it at least would not be sitting on the same spot. Stick the truck back in gear so it won't roll when I drop it and head around to the passenger side. I get it up in the air and sure enough that one is fused to the drum as well. Once again I decide to just stick it in neutral to turn it, but I can't get the thing out of gear (reverse). I had to drop the tire back on the ground and still getting it out of gear was tough but I got it. Pump the thing back up and I still can't turn the wheel. No matter which way I turned it or how hard I pushed it would not budge. This truck has not been driven for about a year at this point, and the only moving it has done was up onto the flatbed when it was towed to my house. It was of course then backed off the flatbed and pushed to where it sits now, all in neutral gear until parked then tossed into reverse to hold it there. That was in mid-May, and since then all that has happened was when I started it once I forgot I had it in gear and it lurched backward and stalled. I did notice when I turned the other three wheels it sounded like the brakes were dragging or the wheel bearings were shot or something, it does have a broken brake line back by the driver side rear wheel if that matters. So anyways, it doesn't matter all that much since I think I've basically decided I'm just going to scrap this thing unless I can find a buyer for an interior-less rig. But I do need to be able to move it to get it on the trailer at some point to haul it off to either be scrapped or fixed if I win the lotto. So what does everyone think the issue is?

I have two spare chrome ones. The chrome is peeling some but they worked when I pulled them a few years back. No way to test them right now though since my current rig has electrical issues and non-working domes is part of that. A few bucks each plus shipping would work for me. You can see them here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38469-fstrade-25l-4-wheel-drive-badges-oh/ I could even pull the ones from my truck if you wanted some with the chrome in better shape (I think, I'd have to check to be sure) since I plan to replace them with LED aftermarket stuff.

Have you gone over all your grounds? And a side question, just how much louder is that loud flasher? I've always wondered that.

I agree on those last two, the newer style Liberty, and the new Cherokee. But I gotta say I rather like the newer style Compass, if I were looking for a cruising around town only vehicle I'd buy one (which I just might be doing in a few months). The original Compass though was not only a pure street Jeep, it was also pure ugly too. The newer one at least has some off road ability and has quite a bit of off road focused Mopar accessories like skid plates and such. Let's face it though, the company has had to change with the times eventually. At least they keep the Wrangler around and have not made it some aerodynamic monstrosity like the Jeepster concept or something like that.

Did you replace the flashers? One of mine was messed up when I got my truck, swapping them showed that the one was toast and the other one worked but I just went ahead and replaced them both. When I was having problems, my right side (passenger) turn signal under the headlight and brake light would stay on after turning all switches and the truck off. There were also a few other issues that would pop up and just overall funky stuff was happening. Now after replacing both flashers just the corner lights refuse to blink at all, so I'm thinking the PO did something and I've just not had time to tear into things yet. Anyways, I grabbed two of these from Rockauto and no more crazy lights. If the links don't work, the ones I grabbed were the fourth one down with the first heart.

I could use the screw covers for the handle above the passenger door if they are there, as well as the visor clips if they aren't busted, and the middle seat belt if it's complete and working. V6? Could use the gauges if it's a full cluster. And is that a silver dash I see? If so I assume it's an XLS. Are the XLS (or X if it's that) badges still there on the fenders? I could really use those puppies. This is of course all assuming you'd be willing to grab these things and just like above I'd pay for your time, parts, and shipping.

Those are actual MJ rear flaps, Eagle. I did a test fit of the XJ flaps that I got and they plain and simply will not work on the rear of an MJ without modification. They could be trimmed down to the shape of the MJ ones, but that is not something I am willing to do without a template of MJ ones to overlay on them first. Plus I would not have the bracket so I'm still not sure they could be rigged up to work without that. If you compare those ones you quoted above to the ones sinkrun showed off above, you'll notice they are the same but are missing the metal bracket. Then when compared to the XJ ones I have, they are totally different (flaps and brackets).

I'm with Pat, looks awful. Can't stand YJs as is, and this just makes them worse.

Because it's a Jeep. I needn't say more. Call me a fan boy if you want, but I've seen nothing but junk from other brands or I just plain won't buy a few brands. The 4.0 is just too good of an engine to pass up while having the perfect size truck IMO.

If only it was a long bed.

Not much new really, still waiting for the go ahead to haul it to my mechanics shop once he is finished with his current project. I did recently acquire a wood grain dash though from PFCLeist so I got the chance to toss it in. Looks really good with that black interior. I'll have to get a new switch cover for the hole and I still need to replace my clock from whatever the PO did to this one, but with it sitting in the sun and there being no clouds yesterday I decided not to do much.

I find 27 MPG hard to believe and it's a shame the chrome bumpers were painted (I'm assuming chrome anyways since it has XLS badges).

Sure it will, so long as you grab everything else to go with it and make up some mounts. Then it'll directly bolt in. :thumbsup: It could be done, and would be a good engine to swap to, but it would be very time consuming and require a lot of hacking. So with that said, who wants to attempt it first?

Yup, that's cool. Hope I didn't come across rude, didn't mean to. These trucks just fascinate me and I'm always trying to learn more about them, even if that means trying to sort out the oddities that AMC did and trying to keep track of things when ownership switched over to Chrysler in '87.

That is the earlier model steering wheel. That came with all '86s to the best of my knowledge. Mine's an '86 Custom and has that very wheel. The 3-spoke sport wheel came later. Except for the fact that I have had two '86 X rigs and they both have had the three spoke wheel (check my build thread in my sig for my current '86 to see it in black even). I've also seen it on countless other '86 rigs around the club and the net. I've never seen that other one so I questioned. Since you both have '86 Customs (base model), maybe it was specific to that trim and the X/XLS got the three spoke then the one you guys have was dropped the next year or only used on the lowest trim. That's my speculation.