GirsMJ86

It might be "rare", but it still isn't very valuable. Don't go getting into your head you have something that could pull in Mecum numbers or anything. It's is still just a Jeep, and not one most Jeep collectors go after. To most Jeep people who know about the MJ, it's a neat little truck, but they wouldn't pay as much for one as a CJ, Jeepster, or something along those lines. To everyone else, it's an old beater truck that isn't all that useful since it's not a fullsize or something rare like a GMC Syclone or Dodge Lil Red Express if they are looking for a collector. Even around here, where you'd find someone more likely to want it for what it is, you still won't get that much. A lot of guys have paid less than $1000 for their rigs, plenty have only paid a couple hundred for their rust free trucks in good shape, and it's not uncommon to see people rag on for sale threads that ask for a couple thousand.

Talk about a jumbled mess. Doesn't appear very helpful either from scanning through it, all I really noticed was tow group and country decor group. It also says something about each of the springs at the end there, but nothing about skids, hooks, or most other options the limited/UC packages had.

Dang, I was hoping to see another two-tone rig in reverse like my '86. Good looking nonetheless.

That's a good looking truck, not worth the 2k with the issues you listed though. What was the lift on that?

Running without one currently on my '88 that has a 4.5" lift, I can't stand it. To me it feels just way too unsafe, too much roll for me in corners or any motion that causes sway. If I keep the thing I'm going to be getting some longer links and re-installing the dang thing. If I did any kind of off-roading and wanted more flex, I'd just get some discos and call it a day.

What are the prices like at that yard? If prices are cheap and I could figure out a way to get up there since I'm only 2hrs away, I'd love those flares, rear bumper, and maybe the rear axle depending on what it is.

I've been pulled out in front of in pretty much everything I've owned except the J10 and P71. They even loved pulling out in front of me when I would drive the big, loud, old, lifted, black and chrome, '87 K10. So size and flat black doesn't mean squat in how noticeable you are. I think it has a lot to do with color and white, silver, black, etc. get it more often than actual colors like red or yellow. My mom is always complaining about it now that she has a white little Toyota instead of an orange Caliber. All my vehicles have been black except 3, the red J10, white P71, and silver BMW. But notice I only said the J10 and P71 didn't get pulled out in front of, I think that's because the J10 is something you don't see anymore and it was red. Even though the P71 was white, the reason it didn't get pulled in front of is easy to see plain as day. Anymore though I just turn my lights on no matter time of day or weather. Better to be noticeable IMO. I hate people that drive around at dusk or in rain with their lights off, especially those in black or silver cars. I guess so long as they see it doesn't matter if others can see them. :fs1:

Didn't a NOS one just sell not too long ago for less than half that? The prices this guy sticks on things... you'd think these trucks were worth their weight in gold. :laughin:

Factory bar also have the support bars welded onto the sides of the front bar rather than the top. Basically if the support bars are welded to the top of the front bar, or there are bends in the supports at all, it isn't factory. Factory: Still an awesome price for anyone around that area. Factory ones can go for 10x that or more.

Yea, it's been on the market for a few years. It's in the Grand and is also now in the Ram 1500. 240hp and 420 torque, about 30mpg.

The factory boot can be bought still, it's the same one used in XJs. I just recently bought one and ended up not needing it but held onto it anyways, I'd be willing to sell it if interested. But from what you're saying it sounds like you want one that goes to the floor to better seal out air leaks. Can't help you there as most modern vehicles have a console around the shifter. Last thing I saw a bare shifter in with a boot that went to the floor was my J10. Maybe you could find one in an old K10 or something too, but I'm not certain.

That reminds me as well. Lost brakes once while on my way through town to Lowes to get some parts for the farm. I was one stop light away and lost 'em, no way was I turning around. I continued on to Lowes and then drove home. Pulled it into the barn and a rear brake line had burst, fluid was just spraying all over the floor. Somehow I don't recall having that bad of a time driving it home, was an auto so no manual help. We all had a good laugh though.

Not really all that mechanical, but so far I've been lucky and have not had anything major happen on-road. Even my old Talon with the super leaky turbo that I fixed several times waited until after I sold it to blow. Anyways... When I went to buy my J10, I drove it home. A 4hr one way trip of 240 miles (8hr 480mi trip total). Once we got into the last part of the trip I kept hearing something metallic rattling under the truck, like a loose washer on a bolt or something. I didn't dwell on it too hard since the trip was going so smooth. Well after stopping for fuel for the last time, the thing was kind of hard to start, but it did and we pulled back out onto the highway and kept going. Not too long after I could have sworn I heard that bolt or whatever fall off and hit the road then bounce and hit under the bed somewhere (so glad it didn't hit the vehicle that was behind me since it was my grandfather's Escape). A few days later I went to start the truck to take it and get the title taken care of and all that, but it wouldn't start. Get my gramps to come and try to start the thing while I look around. Here the starter is just bouncing around under the truck, hanging by one bolt. So glad we didn't have to stop for fuel one more time.

I'd blast it and weld it then call it good. If you wanted to add some support, I'd just add two plates on each side of the handle area, above the dual "pockets" on each side where it is smooth from edge towards middle. That would give the added support to stop the top from being pulled down on each side where the ramps would be resting anyways. No clue if I made any sense, been a long day.

First time I've seen someone try to undercut someone else around here. What is this, NAXJA or Pirate? lol

Thats ecactly what I was trying to say earlier This is what i meant i have the closed system, so with deleting the valve and running threw my bottle what would be the proper filling technique Ah, you're actually wanting to keep the closed system. I was linking to easily swapping to open without the need for a new rad. Carry on. With the closed bottle, all you have to do is fill the bottle. There isn't a way to fill the rad separately.

Yup, it's a pukey. I opened the first image and could easily tell from that bolted seam running along the bottom.

That routing honestly makes no sense to me. With that you'd have this big empty bottle between the inlet hose and your heater core. I think you need to take a look at what I posted above since it's completely different, or there are plenty of other topics already on this subject to look at for more clarification. The only hose that should be going to your bottle would be the overflow hose from the nozzle at the filler neck. There is no bottom hose on an open system overflow bottle.

Have some more pics, Blaine. Maybe this'll help shine some light on routing things. This is what I'll be doing to my '88 if it doesn't sell soon since I can drive it anyways until I replace coolant hoses, only I plan on grabbing a factory 91+ coolant bottle from a JY. http://comancheclub.com/topic/24848-open-system/?p=259597 http://comancheclub.com/topic/27068-closed-to-open-cooling-system/?p=278686

Yup, but I didn't care. Was just going to have some made. My comment was more directed at Blaine and not being sure if the ones LMC carries would match the factory hole location or not. Otherwise no clue where else you could find them, and you won't find new ones meant specifically for an MJ. With the way AMC used parts from all the other companies though, I'd almost bet the mirrors are just Chevy ones.

It's a LWB, you can barely make out the outline of the fuel door right up against the flare. And I think the badges say "custom" It also has the all caps badges. All that could be swapped though because it has an 8 slot grille instead of 10. Who knows. All I know is those are horrible pics, someone can't keep their hands still very well and didn't have stabilization turned on. I love those mirrors, even more than the 97+ style mirrors on my '88. Had them on one of my old K-10s too, and the tripods on my J10. My old '86 MJ had them, but no tow package or anything. Just your typical D35, Selec-Trac, automatic, 2.8 truck. I'm not sure if the ones for the Chevy's from LMC would match up as a replacement or not. I was going to buy a set and stick them on my current '88 until I decided not to keep it, but I of course didn't have the holes already there from the factory ones to worry about.

And there are two different versions. One with lights, one without.

heh And I wish I could find a good longbed. OT, I've only ever seen 2 or 3 around here. Saw one a few weeks back though driving the opposite direction of me (I wasn't driving or I would have chased it) that was spotless. It was either black or charcoal, looked stock. Nicest MJ I've ever seen in this rust haven.

I love people that list no info about the vehicle.

They are decals, it's just factory and almost 30 years old. Even the color difference at the bottom of 80's Eliminators was a decal. If you took the rubber trim off, there is a blank spot between the upper and lower decal that shows the paint of the truck that is normally hidden by the trim.