gogmorgo

But at the same time we also aren't super excited about all the xenophobic, homophobic, racist, ignorant bigotry and hatred inspired by Trump that is triggering a large number of the protests. There are people genuinely afraid for their lives out there thanks to him, with absolutely no reason for it. Yes there are people opposing Trump who aren't behaving like responsible adults, but there's also a bunch of people supporting Trump who aren't behaving like reasonable human beings. Not a single one of your citizens deserves to be hated and live in fear just because of the colour of their skin or who their parents are and where they came from. Yes it's a small minority of Trump supporters, but these things tend to snowball out of control very rapidly, and I hope for everyone's sake that they don't.

I can't see Canada being hugely happy about accepting California. We wouldn't know what to do with a population and economy that huge. Lol. Plus we've been continually rejecting tiny island paradises from signing up as well. :dunno: I'm also not convinced we want the kind of people up here who are willing to give up on their country that easily.

This is what watching this one's been like for us. I still don't understand why it takes you almost three years of campaigning to have a regularly scheduled election, when we can call, plan, and hold one within three months.

I spent two weeks last fall trying to find the source of a pop-clunk. Couldn't figure it out. Then one day passing a car at 130, going back into my lane it felt like the back end wanted to go a different direction than the front. Pulled over and noticed I had around 40 degrees of camber on the back left wheel. Three lug nuts were gone, the two left were right next to each other, not even close to tight, and they'd hogged out the holes in the wheel. Thing is, the truck was parked for 16 months hadn't had wheels off for 18, and had been hauled 250k on a dolly, and driven almost 1000km in those two weeks. Popular theory is they were stolen but I really have no idea what happened, I always torque to spec and retorque after 50k or so. Pretty embarrassing to say the least.

Seems silly I know, but have you checked your lug nuts? I... may have had this happen once.

Because the axles only have to turn "on average" at the same speed, one wheel could be rolling at the same speed as the two on the other axle, and the other could be turning much slower, or possibly even backwards, to make up for it. It's a lot like dragging a vehicle in park, one wheel turns forward at the speed of the vehicle, the other wheel goes backwards.

It's close. I'd have to remeasure because my memory's fuzzy but I want to say when I did about a month ago it was 32". But the v10 will be wider for more of that length. I can definitely see needing some firewall mods.

Split loom. Black, looks almost factory, and keeps the insulation in good shape by reducing the effects of heat and friction.

Pretty sure the half-ton's bed is too wide. There's a chance something for a 7' S10 bed would work, I know people have used hard bed caps from them on MJ's in the past, but they're just too awkward looking for my taste.

And again, this doesn't mean you shouldn't be addressing a known issue that has caused electrical fires that have destroyed people's vehicles. Simply replacing the switch is no help if it's just going to do the same thing again soon. If anything it'll make the problem more apparent, because the relays will lead to the lights either being on or off, and not somewhere in between due to a poor connection somewhere.

In which case the headlights will continue flickering after the relay harness is installed, sure. And probably then the switch will get investigated. The harness is still a good idea though, eh?

The H4 uses the same connector/socket as the original sealed beams. You're good to go.

I'll see if I still have still have stuff from when I did mine. It was so long ago though, don't know if I still have the photos I took. But I've mostly been directing people to Go-jeep's diy thread, which is what I followed when I did mine. Also this image I put together to help visualize things a bit better:

I've got H6054's in mine. Of course if you don't want sealed beams you could always upgrade to an e-code type housing and an H4 bulb pretty easily. But hold off until you've got the relay harness in there. It's a huge improvement.

^^^Yup, before your truck sets itself on fire like mine did.

I wish they would just give us the option codes instead of decoding them, so we could figure things out. Yours did not come with 265/60R18 tires. Among other things they repurposed codes for.

Did you let the master cylinder run dry? You'll need to bleed it first. Also make sure the bleed nipples are pointed up on the callipers. The casting is the same for both sides, only difference is where it's drilled for the nipple.

I commuted for a couple days in my Niva with no clutch... Then my brakes took a dump and I figured I needed at least one of them.

So that starting with the easy stuff...

People complain about that 2000 rpm drone all the time. I do a lot of highway driving and my flowmaster 40 can't even be heard over the wind and road noise unless I mash the throttle... Seriously, if you shut the truck off in neutral, if the tach didn't drop to zero you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference till the truck starts slowing down. At lower speeds, around town, all I get is a pleasant rumble. No obnoxious drone. But I can appreciate people who don't appreciate the rumble. It's hard to be subtle. But one advantage is that I don't see much wildlife. That's a good thing... Up here even a white tail will do a huge number, let alone a moose.

Having four mismatched tires on it seems like a symptom of a seller who wanted to hang onto larger tires but not break the bank just to help out the next guy. Most smartphones have GPS and you can get pretty accurate speedometer apps. Just bring along a passenger so you don't get a ticket. As far as the first few posts wondering about torque converter locked up, my experience is that with the trans computer unplugged (and therefore no TC lockup) the revs slowly creep upwards without an increase in speed.

The only way it could be burning coolant under the hood is if it's leaky onto the exhaust. I'd look at the lower rad hose and driver's side of the radiator for a leak. It could be the water pump or thermostat gaskets too I suppose, or even something spraying into the fan, but if it's definitely getting it onto the exhaust and not into it, it makes a head gasket issue seem less likely. You'd probably be able to see or hear it bubbling out if it was that bad.

The only reason you'd be burning antifreeze is a bad head gasket, and there's a small chance a bad head gasket could also be pushing out oil. Can't hurt to check for fluid cross-contamination.

If you've got a lift installed, the factory rod will likely be too short. You can always make your own. http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

Roughly horizontal. Pointing towards 3 o'clock when looking from the rear.