CWLONGSHOT

I know how this is, I get plenty frustrated too. MANY time I have to walk away, have a beer and come back. Just today a single bolt really gave it to me. The one n the back of the PS Pump. I simply couldn't get to it to loosen it. I tried all the usual tricks, hollering at it, threatening it and of coarse lots of dirty looks. None worked. :D LUCKY, I never got it really tite last time and I was able to just loosen it with the adjuster. I am going to make up a special wrench to allow me to get it easier. Measure the length of the sleeve from the inside and trim equally from both ends so the arm remains centered in the mount. Do not start twisting or banging on the bracketry. have a good sized stillson wrench handi and grab the axle tube. Its inevitable that you will need to turn the axle one way or the other to align the bolts. This will be a life saver, trust me!! For really tough jobs, a jack can be used to really persuade the axle to align the bolt holes. CW

The NAPA was closed today, so ordering/picking up the parts will have to wait till Monday. BUT, It warmed up enough so I was able to get everything dis-assembled and ready for the new parts to go in. One casualty... my shroud. FREAKIN' THING IS ALWAYS I THE WAY!! :headpop: I also found the idler, just to the right of the A/C idler is also noisy. Hopefully this is not a dealer part, but I fear it is. OH well, not a huge deal as its easy to swap at a later date if it doesn't come in i time. I opened up the water neck with a air grinder in about ten minutes! BEFORE: AFTER: Everything came out easily sans that shroud. :doh: :wall: :doh: :wall: Brian

HFB!!! Sorry you missed the instruction on the WJ install but yea you need to alter the width of the WJ mounting sleeve to make it fit in the MJ/XJ bracketry. The improvements will be seen once you get it on the road. better bushings and more tire clearance is now yours. Good luck with the rest of the build!! CW

You won't find many people "in the know" who are running them. For the XJ/MJ, they are simply far too wide to come close to fitting the wheel wells for standard lifts, reguardless of tire size. CW

A rebuild kit is less than $200 and its a easy job! Just buy yourself a good set of split ring plyers and common mechanics tools are all thats required. The biggest issue is making sure the pickup tube for the oil pump dosen't pop off on assembly. There are many writeups on line for tips and guidance. CW

Looks really good, now its time to get a little intimate with that bumper and a hi-speed grinder with a flap wheel!! Get rid of all them weld boogers and pretty up any uneven welds/edges. THEN your ready for some primer. THEN go back and correct anything that comes to lite. THEN PAINT... Don't skimp now, its looking GREAT SO FAR!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: CW

Today I put some miles on the MJ. Got going early (7AM) and took a trip to my buddies jeep garage on the shore to dismount, mount and balance a couple sets of tires. From there across the state to drop half of them off at another buddies place. Then back to the homestead. Got home about 4PM. I got out of the MJ and was greeted with a nasty growling rattle. Seems my water pumps bearings are going, going soon to be GONE! :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: I have wanted to upgrade my pressure bottle with one that mechanic buddie recommended to me. It's a HOWE Surge tank. I haven't liked the temps mine has been running for some time. Back a couple years ago I installed this pump, a new heater core, 3 core radiator, 180 T-stat and hoses. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-3424/ You will only need to drill out one fitting from the .060 opening to casting diameter. (approx 5/8") and find room for a cheap dorman #603-001 overflow bottle. You also get a regular rad cap!! It's smaller tank than the factory bottle so it easily fits in stock location. My friend has been running his for about 6mo and his XJ. He says has never run so constant as far as temperatures. You should know, he is a stickler for factory parts, so his just admitting there was something better then the troublesome factory pressure bottle was something for sure. But after having numerous factory replacements fail he began looking for a better bottle. He discovered the Howe and LOVES IT!! Good enough for me! So I have one on order. Now for the water pump. back then, I purchased a parts store pump. This time I want a better, more efficient HI FLO pump. So I went for this one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GMB-110-1080P/ I wanted the Flo-Kooler pump but its not offered for the renix era 4.0. At least its not "recommended" for some reason... :dunno: I have already "massaged" the water neck for better flow and ordered a hi-flo 180 thermostat to go in it. My mechanic also mentioned that the Stant thermostats do not properly fit the factory water neck!! They either bind the housing limiting the movement or touch and allow for electrolysis so the T-stat disintegrates!!! I'm also gonna change all the fittings, radiator and heater hoses at the same time. SO, with some luck, I will have all the parts in a couple days and as long as the weather accomidates, get everything installed for a wheeling trip on the 31st!! Otherwise I'll have to wheel the TJ.. OH DARN :rotf: :rotf: It's a really easy trail, so it kinda silly to drive the TJ. As always, pics of the whole process will follow. Coments always welcome and encouraged. CW

I FINALLY scores a V8 Sway Bar!!! Install when weather permits... CW

Mine started out almost exactly as yours!! Only mine was a 4WD, no option, bench seat, column shift with 59,500 miles orig. I bought from second owner... the wife of the orig owner who had passed away. She said, she parked the MJ in the barn and there it sat for many years. Then when she "rediscover" it and used it for feed and hay trips only. Along the way, the front end became wore out and she was scared to drive it, any longer so she sold it. . . to me. Good luck with yours. I look forward to the progression... CW

A WIX filter is the best filter you can buy. As said avalible at NAPA stores. CW

Nice work on the mounts!! I have a couple coming from AJ's for my rear bumper. They are good and long so they can be punched thru and welded from both sides. Thats the way it should be done!! CW

Actually, what my in-state neighbor means is DON'T lock the steering wheel. Get the truck so the road wheels are as straight ahead as possible. Turn off the engine but DO NOT engage the steering wheel lock. This way, as you make the adjustment at the drag link the steering wheel will move. If you have the steering wheel locked, adjusting the drag link will turn the road wheels and you won't really know if you've gone far enough, too far, or in the wrong direction until you drive it again. :oops: :oops: fixed it... :D Thanks neighbor. CW

YUP adjustments are made at the drag link. With the wheel straight as you can, climb underneath and loosen the bolts and turn the adjuster with a stilson/monkey wrench. Check the steering wheel often. Better yet, have someone sit on drivers seat and watch the wheel, holler out as you get close... CW

The short answer is yes, they will be fine. :shake: I picked up 4 "fancy shackles from essentials last year. They are nicer designed for working with straps and the safety thimble I have on my winch cable. http://www.quadratec.com/products/92145_001.htm Image Not Found They work exceptionally well!! CW

I didn't say Id push her out of bed, I'm just saying more than a handful is too much like work! That's one kind of "work" I doubt you will hear ANY complaints about... :yes: :rotf: :brows: Too big, just right or not big enough... jpmjim's right. I would need to invest some serious time investigating exactly what was/is perfect for me. CW

Flatly its NOT DESIGNED for mounting a winch. Its designed to make it easier to move your boat/trailer around in the yard or on the ramp. NOT for towing, or supporting any kind of shock load. NOT the same as a rear mounted two point/hitch. Besides, it hangs pretty lo and as jpnjim mentioned destroys some of you approach angle. I have a Detours bone mount and I do like it, but I would have preferred something a bit lower as not to deflect/interfere with so much of the air flow into the radiator. CW

I AGREE... THANK YOU Mr. PERDUE!!! CW

You guys ROCK!!! CW

I would love a J2500 as a tow vehicle.... but to many jeeps (Just brought that CJ home today) and so little room left as well as momma stifles that idea.... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Any one know if the blower fan is the same as other Jeeps? The wifes now only works on high. Its a '04 Libby. I'm figuring its the fan resistor... CW

Did you get the calipers too? I agree its a great foundation on a disc brake upgrade!! Even if you don't do it right away, remove all the pieces and label everything for later use!! EVEN IF THAT DOESN'T happen.. you could sell it here for more and pocket the difference, and at 100 or less would still be a "deal" for some guy here!! CW

I'm sure you will come up with a good plan! I agree, definitely don't start chopping up that bumper, it looks good as is!! If you ran a couple plates up the sides and bolted/welded them in place then tied this into those four bolt factory mounts, I would say you would very effectively strengthen up the hole back of the frame/bumper assembly. Plating the underside is also a plan, although there comes a point that your adding allot of weight with out a appropriate return. If you spent time in the rocks, I feel that some additional frame plating is necessary, but 3/16" might be overkill. We went to look at another MJ today and the guy showing it had a XJ with some body mounted rocker protection. It looked like 2x6x3/16" steel. IMHO it was mounted too far from the body allowing to much leverage to be applied when sitting on the rocker. He actually pushed it up so far that he couldnt open his door. Now the rocker was barely marked, but it was so strong that it merely moved the body deflected and buckled with the weight of the vehicle. I mention it because its similar to what you have now with your bumper. CW

I saw them, and its a good start. But it's still one bolt on each side of each piece. it helps with a straight pull on the tow point. But he actual bumper mount, even thou it utilizes 4 bolts. But they are in sheet metal, attached to sheet metal. Fine for the lite factory sheet metal bumper, seriously lacking for even the weight of some HD bumpers out there!! I would look to some class three hitches. The rails are thick, at least 3/16" and they run up the frame rail more than a foot with three bolts per side. (IIRC) Even the not super HD factory MJ mounts are far beefier. CW

The bumper looks good! But I am conserned with the stregnth or lack there of in the mounts. It looks like the stock XJ crossmember, which I have always said needed beefing, especially if it will see tow points added. Its just not ever made to with stand such stresses. CW

When I put the D44 in my MJ, I found the axle seal surface pitted and unusable. I ordered new factory replacement shafts. My buddie called me up and told me the cost had gone up and I could actually buy Superior shafts for LESS then factory Mopar D44 shafts!!! SO, That's what I have.... Image Not FoundImage Not Found For the front of my TJ, I went with ALLOY USA. They have held up just fine. CW