CWLONGSHOT

HAVE FUN PETE!!!

I noticed that too!!! I had a set balanced at Town Fair Tire once. (I use stick on weights as they are better for the rocks.) The kid had no idea what he was doing.... I was there for almost three hours... he was balancing them for MOST of that time!!! When I fineally got them, OH YEA, they where not on the vehicle, they where in the bed of the MJ!! A couple of them had 6-8oz on opposing sides!!! The freakin' kid put on too much weight and instead of removing part of it, he added more to the otherside to compinsate. I was rushed so I only complained, but left them on. Know what...the damn things run REALLY SMOOTH!!!! :doh: :doh: :doh: CW

NO they are not.. XJ is about 52" while the MJ is closer to 58". CW

Nice Idea! If you would like the critique... Dosen't it "flap" against the door a bit? If you made the steel longer so you could be bent in a "U" in the end, so it could wrap it around the edge of the door, into the door gap. Then across to the stock plate position, as you have it now. Also, if you weld, make studs outs them bolts then the back will be smooth! I LOVE the surround lite effect!! I put a LED lite on mine too, it's so freakin' brite I have some electric tape over part of it! :doh: Otherwise it lights up the road behind the truck!! CW

Thank you!! But all the brackets do is hold the sway bar and disco's up out of the way when disconnected off-road. There is no appreciable weight or force put on them when in this position. before I built these, I would "zip" tie them up to the inner fender well. That worked fine, but was a PIA. I am certain the 1/8" steel is stronger than the nylon of the zip ties!! :brows: :brows: CW

What did you figure out concerning this problem?? I swapped in my "winter" tires on the MJ today and guess what? My axle is pushed to the passenger side... JUST LIKE YOURS!!!! :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: I have measured EVERYTHING!!! Seems my perches ARE out by 3/4". I measured from the center of the perch to the flange where the axle retainer bolts to the axle tube. Same place of both sides. Its 6" on the drives side and 6 3/4" on the pass side. So the perches are out of square by 3/8" . Now in my case I had the bed off last year so I measured that in relation to the frame. I found that it too was out of square by about 3/4" in the same direction. This is magnifying the problem. But only by 3/8" Together they are 3/4" in favor of the passenger side. Now if I measure from the inside of the sidewall to the frame I get 2 3/4" on the Drivers side and almost 5" on the Pass side. ??? I then measured the springs... 44 1/8" from outside edge to outside edge in the front right behind the bushings. Its 44 1/2" just behind the pumpkin and 44 7/8" just in front of the shackles. So my springs are widening to the rear and very likely splaying to one side exacerbating the off center axle. Now in my case this rig IS wheeled and I feel the problems are the long shackles and weak thin factory shackle hangers. I cannot see it but think there are multiple things "out" causing the problems. Come spring I'll dismantle everything and build stouter hangers and better/stouter shackles. I would really like to know what you found out with yours!! CW

The MJ got lots of attention today!!! It fineally installed my winter tires.... 33x10.5X15 BFG AT's. I installed my ZJ V8 sway bar!! Then I built some disconect "holders" for my JKS discos. I too a 12" piece of 1.25X1/8" piece of flat stock.. bent a 1" tab on each end and chopped it in half. then drilled mounting holes for the "pins that come with the discos. Then I took the inner bolt out of the cradle that holds the sway bar bushings and put my brackets under it and tightened it back down. It was a very GOOD DAY!!!

The MJ got lots of attention today!!! It fineally installed my winter tires.... 33x10.5X15 BFG AT's. I installed my ZJ V8 sway bar!! Then I built some disconect "holders" for my JKS discos. I too a 12" piece of 1.25X1/8" piece of flat stock.. bent a 1" tab on each end and chopped it in half. then drilled mounting holes for the "pins that come with the discos. Then I took the inner bolt out of the cradle that holds the sway bar bushings and put my brackets under it and tightened it back down. GOOD DAY!!!

LOTS OF WRITE UPS!!! I also just went thru with a hybred system... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21086 here is one.. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7695&hilit=open+cooling+system CW

3:91 and 4:44 are all well and good in a 2WD... but you gotta be able to match (Or come damn close) for the front axle... These are NOT available in or for the D30.... CW

INTERCEPTION!!!! 31-17.. YES WE DO HAVE A GAME!!!! WOOHOO!!!

YEA BABY!!!!!

I cleaned rims!!! SO, I brought in the aluminum rims for a good cleaning. I have found that "coil Cleaner" for air conditioning coils works GREAT!! I hit them each four times, then washed them in hot water and soft scrub cleaner. then today, I brought in my powerball and mothers billet aluminum polish. Hit them a couple times each, finished up with some wheel wax. WOW they came out great!! Not mirror brite, but clean, smooth and nice. BEFORE: AFTER: Lastly I cleaned off the bead area with some 220grit wet/dry paper. I got home and its pretty warm.. SO i decide to mouth them up!! Tenn minutes and I have them all mounted!!

The AMC 20 is a good axle and the two piece axles much like the dreaded "C" clip get a bad wrap. Its mostly unfounded, again, if the axles are properly torqued and watched, they will not be a problem. No one wants to take responsibility and blames the problems on a "weak" axle. It has a good sizes gears and bearings and 29 spline axles. Its housing is its real weak spot in my mind. Its stronger than the D35 and likely on par with the XJ D44. What gear to run is determined by a number of criteria. Tire size, transmission and motor. Then what your doing with it and if you have done anything to the T case gearing. With a 4.0; 3:73 to 4:10 are good for 31"s - 4:10 to 4:56 for 33's - 4:56 to 4:88 for 35's. Lower number for a stick and taller for the Auto. With a 2.5; 4:10 to 4:56 for 31's - 4:56 to 4:88 for 33's - 5:38 to 5:89 for 35's the Lil 4cl really looses it with the big tires. CW

I would not buy cheap shocks ever again... I will especially never buy Rustys again...even again. There are many "good" shocks out there without sacrificing too much ride quality. Whats your price range? You cannot go wrong with Old man Emu or Bilstein. CW

The rubber mounts are shot?? CW

NICE!!! We have one of them babys to go in the D30 of my brother-in-laws MJ in the spring!!! Its a match to the one we put in his rear last summer!!

IIRC this is me on NE jeeps 20 degree ramp... Image Not Found Image Not Found This is me on Jonfunds 30 degree: Image Not Found Image Not Found All those pics are from 2005. CW

Metric schmetric. . . . mine is 15/16ths stock and my new ZJ V8 bar is just shy of 1 1/16!! :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

I am thinking of building one. Criteria: 1) Self contained tow-able. 2) Utilize Jeep wheels/tires 3) 20 degree, possibly switchable to 30 degree as well 4) STOUT!!! (There are some FAT rigs out there!!) 5) Steel Tool box attached. 6) Able to get full run with 120" wheel based vehicles. I'm thinking a drop axle, so one just has to remove the tires to use it. (So it sits flat on the ground) Pics of ones you have seen or used would be GREAT!!! Comments and suggestions ALWAYS welcome!! Thanks guys.. CW

Guys, you need to know the facts. This hatred of the dreaded "C" clip is UNFOUNDED!!! Yes the D35 is a problem rear. But do you know why? I don't wanna hear what you read, I wanna know if you really know why they bring on the suckage. The "C" Clip axle design you say.. NOPE. The 27 Spline axle maybe.. NOPE. The small ring gear or bearings?? NOPE and NOPE. The core of the problem with the D35 is its HOUSING!! 90% of the problems with this axle are a direct result of the axle housing flexing . Resulting in the ejection of the axle from the housing when the "C" clip fails. It fails because the axle housing twists or flexes enough to "pop" the clip and out comes the axle. YES some people have broken the shafts, (self included) but its diameter and 27 spline count is much stronger then you have read and have been lead to believe. Many of the people who have broken a shaft would have VERY likely also broken a bigger shaft under identical circumstances. I have known, personally known, of more than a couple D35 with alloy axles and reinforced housings standing up to aggressive driving with big tires and lockers. The 27 Spl 8.25 Crico axle is a "C" Clip axle and is still a GOOD upgrade to the D35. Its housing is DAMN STOUT!! That's the reason its such a good axle. The spline count is a consideration as its usually just as easy to look a bit more and get a 29spline, but if all you can get or the price is great on a 27spline GO FOR IT!! Don't discount this axle!! Its housing is way strong! Hold on to your hat... the 8.8 is ANOTHER "C" clip axle. It too has a housing that's as big as a D60 for crying out loud!! Any of you who have drug it thru the rocks with 33/35" tires will attest to! Yes it is WAY strong! I agree its stronger then the D44 because of this housing! FORGET about the "C" clip eliminators, besides they don't fit with most lockers we all want to run. You done need them anyhow! Welding the tubes is another hot topic. I doubt the majority of us will really need this. but its a simple thing to do and offers insurance or at the very least peace of mind. So do it if it makes you feel better. I just hate misinformation!!! Know the facts and make you own INFORMED decisions!! NOT the hype from the guy who knows a guy whose brother has a friend that broke one... People will most ALWAYS blame something else for there misfortune or problem and not take responsibility for it. CW

TR MJ nailed it!! Go 96+ and look for the tag on the cover!! :thumbsup: Good huntin' CW

Thats actually a very good fit in a comanche!! I'd like it to be a bit wider, but it sits and looks very good!! NICE BAR!! CW

I'll bet its either 3:73 or 4:10 ratio. Both common with the expolder... Nice score!! My brother-in-law just got the exact deal as you, only he didnt need to remove the axle, they did it for him, but same $150 was spent. CW

I had the same thing happen to me, in the driveway NOT on the road. GOOD THING!!! I was able to swap out the line fairly easily, but mine went in the summertime, so warmth was on my side.. sorry man, CW