CWLONGSHOT

Here ya go!! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-3424/ CW

I am just repeating what already been recomended... I have 4" YJ lines up front and a Dakots line in the rear. I'm at about 5" of lift. The 4" front lines are needed in mine as the drop brakets allow for near Long arm droop... CW

I had the exact same thing happen on one of my XJ's!! I hit all the "joints" in the linkage with penetrating oil. Save the WD-40 for what its designed for... Displacing Water. I have used a number of good ones. KROIL is a favorite but its not in a spray can. LIQUID WRENCH, FREE-ALL, PB BLASTER, and others are FAR better at freeing up rusted or corroded connections. My favorite is a MOPAR product. Its made for heart-a-lators in exhaust manifolds. But hold onto your wallet if you buy this one.. close to 20$ a can!!! Finally it freed up, but took some time to work completely, immediate difference was seen, but its completely smooth and free now. I don't dislike WD-40, its just that there is far better stuff available. CW

Nice job on the brace!! This has been in the back of my head since seeing the very first one some years ago... If you have any more detailed pics I would appreciate seeing them. You can PM or email if you don't want them posted here in your thread. CW (cwlongshot@att.net)

I did end up going back out there tonight... Threw in the heater and it was rite cozy!! I decided to throw in a sealer as I noticed the radiator itself was leaking a bit. Just a small leak, but a leak just the same. My heat at the water neck was just a drip, but as the pressure built and the fan pushed it around, it looked bad. Sealer seems to have worked at least slowed it to a tiny stain. Also noticed that my math sux.... the factory gage goes from 100 to 260 with 210 straight up. (Bear with me here) that's 90 degrees from 100-210 so the mark I was calling 180 is really only 145. Now add 15 more for the 1/3 past the center mark and we get 160 degrees. That's 20 under the 180 that the stat is... seems the gage IS way off as its IS rock steady where it sits. Also, my upper rad hose doesn't even get firm... OR overly hot!! SO, my guess is I have a air bubble. Squeezing the hose doesn't seem to move any fluids. Comparing the heater hose with the upper rad hose isn't close in temps. I ran it tonight for most of an hour idle and revving to 2000 and 3000 rpms and held there for a couple minutes multiple times. Hopefully it will relieve itself as it cools tonight, I filled the overflo bottle to near full. I'll check it and run it a bit tomarrow. CW

I would avoid the 97 and maybe 98 only because its first and early production models. After 2000 they had the distributorless ignition and the coil on plug setup. Some say with head problems... Leaves you the 1999 model.... CW

I got the truck all buttoned up tonight... I also found the pos batt cable loose. I tightened the nut, it snapped!!! Good thing I had a spare!! I warmed it up and checked the temp... BINGO!!! Right at 180, good heat and I'm happy!!! Then when doing a final check, I found my water neck is leaking... :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: SO, Saturday I'll have to dive back in and drain it down and remove then reinstall the neck... CW

I ran back to NAPA on the way home and picked up the hose barbs and hose I needed. A few minutes with some Teflon tape and I had the tank ready to install. I had a couple big hose clamps and I grabbed a piece of 2" "C" channel. It worked perfectly to hold the tank at 90 degrees while being very firm. A few more minutes routing the hose to the overflow tank and it was complete. The overflow tank fit perfectly beside the air box after I moved the ballast resistor and vacuum fitting a bit toward the firewall. I also received the replacement bearings from EBay... five minutes and the old one was pressed out and the new one in!! The temprature is now running right at 180. (Same as the stat) The heat is a bit cooler, bit plenty warm. One problem..... I got a bit of a leak at the water neck... SO the freaking thing comes apart again.... :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: :wall: :wall: Saturday is my next available time.. hope its warm... CW

Due to the current financial situation caused by the slowdown in the economy, Congress has decided to implement a scheme to put workers of 50 years of age and above on early retirement, thus creating jobs and reducing unemployment. This scheme will be known as R.A.P.E. (Retire Aged People Early). Persons selected to be RAPED can apply to Congress to be considered for the S.H.A.F.T. program (Special Help After Forced Termination). Persons who have been RAPED and SHAFTED will be reviewed under the SCREW program (System Covering Retired-Early Workers). A person may be RAPED once, SHAFTED twice and SCREWED as many times as Congress deems appropriate. Persons who have been RAPED could get AIDS (Additional Income for Dependants & Spouse) or HERPES (Half Earnings for Retired Personnel Early Severance). Obviously persons who have AIDS or HERPES will not be SHAFTED or SCREWED any further by Congress. Persons who are not RAPED and are staying on will receive as much S.H.I.T. (Special High Intensity Training) as possible. Congress has always prided themselves on the amount of S.H.I.T. they give our citizens. Should you feel that you do not receive enough S.H.I.T., please bring this to the attention of your Congressman, who has been trained to give you all the S.H.I.T. you can handle. Sincerely, The Committee for Economic Value of Individual Lives (E.V.I.L.) PS - - Due to recent budget cuts and the rising cost of electricity, gas and oil, as well as current market conditions, the Light at the End of the Tunnel has been turned off.

musse HAPPY FREAKIN' BIRTHDAY!!!! I got my New Aluminum tank last nite!! I also got the bearings for the idler!! I now need to stop @ the hardware store for some fittings to attach the heater hoses and 1/4" line to the overflow tank. CW

Parts just arrived and I have to leave for a meeting!! GRRR I gotta get some fittings I forgot about anyhow... here is some pics... Tomorrow night.. in the cold.. I'll be out there installing this... CW

The welds appear to me to have too much wire speed and or to lo power. I do not see much for adjustments on that unit. You will be able to tune it some with your own hand speed, but not much. On thicker metals, if small, you can also heat the pieces up with a propane/map gas torch to help with penetration. You can also "push" the bead (Instead of "pulling" it) to get a bit more heat into the piece for better penetration. Keep welding on scrap, you will get it. It's pretty good for your first welds thou!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJrBxABswjs http://www.millerwelds.com/swf/flv/flas ... &h=240&v=8 CW

I was wondering if that was coming?? Looks good! CW

As compaired to the bed, to me, it appears to be shifted to the pass side. Measure it up and see what you find... CW

Looks mighty nice!!! CW

Its time to spend some quality time on your back with a tape measure. :D Measure from the backing plates as suggested to the opposite frame rail. Use as close to the same point of each side as you can. Obviously, the axle should be centered if installed correctly. Also as mentioned, the axle could be from a XJ and have its perches mounted out of square. Looking form the rear does the axle appear centered? CW

When I trimmed my fenders, I reattached the flairs with 1/4''x20 nuts, bolts and fender washers. CW

Come on man.. you know how this works...... :hmm: :hmm: :needpics: :needpics: :needpics: :needpics: :needpics: :needpics: :needpics:

I got the water pump and the PS brackets back in tonight. I am still missing the T-Stat, pressure bottle and overflow tank so I cannot finish, but its moving along nicely!!! It shouldn't take but a hour to finish this up and I'll be ready for Sunday!! Poor me, guess I am driving the TJ a couple more days... I'm glad I still have the AT's on it!!! The thing drives like a sports car with the Lil 33's!! CW

Can't you buy the same thing for like $75, hi-flow housing, wouldn't that be a idea.? :nuts: :roll: :rofl2: Sure can!! But ain't that 75clams better in yours or my pocket than someone else's?? :brows: :brows: :brows: I almost did it just to get the extra bung for another temp sensor. But was talked out of it... :rotf: CW I just saw your smiles at the end... Sarcasm sometimes isn't immediately apparent in the written word.... I like the way you think!! GOOD MAN!!! ;)

I agree, the hi-dollar, high flo pumps seem not so worth it. I hear many mixed reviews, for more than double the cost, almost three times in some cases. I just don't see it. I decided to buy a NEW pump and NAPA's is even made in the USA!! On the way home tonight I stopped at the local NAPA. I picked up a new USA made pump, A REAL 13# rad cap, a bottle of Indian head cement, a bottle of green juice and some gaskets. Tomorrow, I'll get the pump in and the plastic bottle out. Then its just a wait for the aluminum bottle, overflow bottle and hi-flo Mopar stat. Stay tuned... CW

QUITE A GAME SO FAR!!!! CW

I opened up my water neck for better free"er" flow!! Less than 10mins with a air grinder and it was done!! BEFORE: AFTER: CW

TANKS for the tip MAN!!! :bowdown: :bowdown: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0141483867 I just ordered a couple!!! This can be changed when they arrive, I can live with the old one till then.. CW

I have hed and seen people studder and usually never mention it.. but studdering in text...this is crazy!! :brows: LOL CW