CWLONGSHOT

I took a trip over today and snapped about fifty pics... Here is but a few.... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found FUNKY FLAIRS!! Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

A 45, couple boxes of shells, two extra mags, water, first aide kit, shackles, 20 & 30" straps, tree saver, bag some Craftsman tools, jumper cables, winch accessories like gloves and remote and my hi-lift. :D :brows: CW

IIRC Pat or his brother also did this... As asked.. any pics?? CW

Ding, Ding, Ding, yep its one of the last of the CJ7's!! Whowey, Automan, Darren, and the_wizard_of_fire Good check that, excellent guess guys!! :clapping: :clapping: Its also got a Full hard top and full doors, both in very good condition!! I'm not getting the plow blade, (I don't really care) but the plow frame and new valve body hydraulics is/are included. Sorry no pics yet, But soon... :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

:rotfl2: Sorry CW I call everyone kid, usually without thinking about age. Its all good, :D :cheers: I have found myself doing it as well... Peace and Merry Christmas!! CW

Anytime, kid. :wavy: I like the compliment, Don't get me wrong. I just done generally receive them from people 20 years my junior... :rotf: :dunno: :shake: If I had had any curtain climbers, they would likely be about your age by now... :shake: :shake: AND better behaved!! :doh: CW

Can you guess what it is??? :brows: :D :brows: :D :popcorn: :popcorn: Went to look at it last night aft work... in the dark! First off, its a great mechanical condition with less then 40,000mi on the complete drive train. It hasn't been registered in more than 10 years. It hasn't been out of lo-range in at least 6years. (But will come out) It starts right up, runs very well nice smooth and even. Second owner, had it for more than 15 years, ONLY used for plowing his driveway!!! He drove it on the road for about a year but only in town on errands in the winter. The motor was replaced and is a 1972 258 I6 with two years service plowing a 1000ft drive way. The tranny is a T18A (Granny 6:32 first gear and 7 something reverse!! ) rebuilt two years ago, new clutch, PP and throw out bearing swapped for new units at the same time. The T-case is a Dana 300 and that was NEW, 2 years ago. The Rear axle is a D44 and the front a D30, FACTORY STOCK. Its got new power steering components. Brakes completely redone two years ago. Its got new 235/75x15 Yokohama Super Digger V tires. 58,000 on the OD, seats very good condition, no dents but rust has claimed most the body. The fenders are PERFECT, as they are "pocket fenders" and made of fiberglass. The frame is excellent, some scale, but no rust canser in the known problem spots. The biggest hint.. its a 1986. Its also a fugly piss yello!! I'll pick it up, in a week or so. Its going to be a project for my Brother-in-law and I. Its going to end up being his, as he cannot bring both his kids to the trail in the MJ. Oops, there is another hint.. its NOT a MJ!! :doh: SO, what do you think it is?? Pics once I get it and you guess it!! :yes: :wavey: :wavey: :wavey: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year my MJ brothern, CW

I'm sorry I cannot keep closer tabs here, but the advice your getting is TOP NOTCH!! I'm glad you decided NOT to delete this post!! Don't worry about showing the mistakes. We all learn by making mistakes, NONE OF US where born great or even good welders!!! Eagle is correct, make the repair panels as long as you can, 12" past the break ON EACH SIDE is NOT too much!! Also equally important do not end patches at 90 degrees. Birds mouth them, like Eagle said, like the end of a football. Also you need to remove all infected steel BEFORE covering it with new panels. Otherwise the rust will continue at a much faster rate ruining your new steel and the steel its welded to! Have you taken the time to watch some of my suggested clips? It really will help, seeing proper welds and preparation of the welds. Good luck, CW

I have to say I agree. Please do not take this as a negative, I (we) want to help!! You asked my opinion before you began and I gave it. You chose to attempt it anyway. No one wants to pull the carpet out from under you and damper your enthusiasm. But doing this wrong is definitely a MAJOR safety issue. One for you as the driver or passenger and to anyone on the road with you. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, take some time to watch some clips on YouTube I have posted here for you. I really wish I was closer I would take the time to come up and work with you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJrBxABswjs These weldes of yours definitely do not have adequate penetration. They are not strong and will fail. Either your machine is not up to the task, your steel is too dirty or both. Practice makes perfect so more practice on your part is also a good thing. Simply search Mig welding and a plethora of clips will be at your disposal. I truly wish I could fine a couple that helped me so much. They showed what to do and also had the sound of the weld as you can tell how things will be by sound alone. CW

I drove or at least partially froze my rad fluid one VERY cold year!! I had recently changed out the T stat and all I can think is that I 50-50'd, 50-50 anti freeze!! :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: I always park drive into my garage. This time I backed in and that combined with the sub zero temps that night froze it or at least turned it to a slushie!! I burst the upper rad hose, but all else was fine. LONG hours and not paying attention cause that near catastrophe.. Sounds like you also dodged a bullet. Thank goodness!! CW

Lifting will not help with rubbing in turns. Back spacing on your wheels will. BUT don't go to much or the rubbing will only move from the inside to the outside. A longer shackle in the rear will net you some lift. But as the MJ's shackle is already 5.5" eye to eye, you need two inches longer to net you one inch of lift and overly long shackles create other problems. So my advice is don't go longer than a 7.5" eye to eye shackle. Up front, the V8 coils are said to net you 3/4 to 1 inch of lift. haven't don't it so cannot say for sure. I HAVE used factory XJ upcountry springs. These will net you about an inch as well. CW

Darren, this is EXACTLY what I am thinking!!! Mine will extend out about 1-2" farther, but thats it!! THANKS for the pix!!! DJM/78, I haven't herd of them. i WILL check it out!! Thx... CW

That's EXACTLY what I did the day I turned 21... 23 years ago!! :eek: :D I haven't shot that Lil Ruger!! How do you like it?? As a rule sans the 1911 & the Browning HI-Power, I'm not a huge fan of carring an auto for PP. But I have sure owned a bunch thru the years!! I saw a review on one on one of the sporting channels. Looked pretty good. I like my 638 S&W for 75% of my carrying needs. Otherwise its my 45 LWT Commander. CW

http://biggeekdaddy.com/miscvideos/TedNugent.html Telling it as he sees it.. he sees pretty good if you ask me!! CW

How did it change size?? I mean, it cannot just change??? Are you sure your looking at it correctly? CW

Well, just a spacer on top of your existing coils will keep the ride you have and get you the lift your looking for. What the new coils will get you and if its something you will like is only known once you have them in and your driving on them. If you forced my hand and I had to choose only one. I would recommend Old Man Emu springs and shocks to match. CW

I WHEELED IT!!! Sorry no good pics.. just these crappy video clips... YES, some inconsiderate bastid parked his CAR in the middle of the road!!! We where probably a mile and a half from any paved road.... We SHOULD have driven OVER it!! LOL... We chopped a couple small trees and just drove around it. It was a VERY easy trail. I only used 4WD in one very twisty spot. Most harder spots I simply flicked on the rear locker and shifted into 2WD LO. CW

Pat, Who's shackles (Brand/manufactures name)are those and if you would measure the length eye to eye, it would be much appreciated!! CW

Well the optimist in me says nothing is non repairable, but I'm a bit of an optimist with a pessimistic attitude... The way I see it you have two choices: 1, Just look for another truck. 2, Chop the frame off right behind the bed and tube it!! My own frame repairs where no where near this bad. IMHO yours is gone past a safe return to service. At least without buku work, cost and effort. A cost and effort better put into a better base vehicle. CW

Well, CW, it appears as if we are just going to have to agree to disagree :shake: It appears as if in every tire thread, you tout domestic brand name tires... Where in his ONLY post in this thread (quoted above) does CW say anything about domestic brand tires? Even as a tire shop owner/manager, how can you possibly DISagree with "Stop in your local retailer and ask to see whats most popular and go for it"? Ahh, very good point, but if you have kept up on the many other tire related threads he clearly shows his support for BFG a/t's, and every time he usually makes a point of "domestic" made. It was merely the suggestion of "you get what you pay for, and descent/cheap etc" that lead me to the defence that sometimes less expensive tires are an OK option. Now, this said, where do I say in there that I disagree with his idea of going to a local shop and ask for their suggestion on their best tire? :brows: :cheers: -James Just getting back to this thread... James, I must add that I do not know why you posted how and what you did. I DO like and recommend BFG ATS. But this was not what the OP asked for, so this is NOT what I recommended. I do not pretend to know you or anything about you. But if you will allow for a little tidbit of knowledge. There are a couple little sayings that are oh so true. I post them occasionally. The average age on here is usually very young sans a couple of us "older" guys. So I'll word it like this: the older you get and the more things you experience the more these words will clarify. "Its not what you spend, its when you spend it" "the sweetness of a good deal sours when the reality of poor quality become a reality" "you get what you pay for". This is not a put down, not at all, take a hint form us "older guys" and you may just save some of the money that we lost or wasted learning these simple things.. Peace and merry Christmas to all. CW

They are a good tire, but as stated they are an ALL TERRAIN, NOT a mud tire. I have had a set form a ruby on a XJ for some time and they worked well, but are noisy for what they are. If the price is right and you do not intend on hitting the heavy mud you will like the tire. Just rotate at least every other oil change. I did so at every oil change for the best mileage. I sold them long before they wore out. I had a better deal and got offered more for them than I paid so I sold them. CW

You get what you pay for, decent, cheap is neither decent of cheap in the long run... :no: Buy the best all season tire you can afford. It doesn't need to be a LT tire. Stop in your local retailer and ask to see whats most popular and go for it. CW

Buy Old Man Emu or Bilstein!!! CW

YES YOU CAN!! I haven't been a big fan of superlift or rough country for just this reason. I have run OME, BDS and Teraflex coils with VERY nice ride and lifts to spec . IMHO, overall OME is about tops for ride quality. CW

Keep your chin up, I have a good friend and coworker who had CF. Watched what it did to him, not fun!! I work in a hospital, we filter everything!! But CC comes thru our filters loud and clear!! WOOHOO, GOOD JOB PETE!!! As for hospital food.. how do you think I lost all that weight!! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Now you get better!! CW