CWLONGSHOT

It draws allot of juice. If you don't allow it to get enough, it dosen't sound like it should. It says it needs a 30amp fuse. Thats allot of fuse!! I tested this one with some 16Ga test wires and it did like your saying. I clipped my batter charger directly to it for a full 15 amps of power and it sounded like it should!!! SO, I'll wire it up with a relay and some 12 Ga wire and hopefully this will be enough. :yes: :yes: stay tuned CW

Looks good so far!! You'll remember I did the same job earlier this year!! LMK, if I can help any!! CW

A LITTLE pricey... WOW, that boy is MIGHTY proud of his MJ!!! I'd be surprised if I could net 3500 if I where to sell mine and its got.. a bit.. more than he does!! :yes: :rotf: :doh: :shake: CW

CW

GOOD EYE!!! :yes: :brows: :D give that man a beer!! Tomorrow I'll get the wiring finished and hopefully get a recording up for all to hear!! I HATE the "dead spots" in my factory horn!!! :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: Going to run a new horn button. CW

Not to hijack... but.... I picked up a set of used Cooper Discoveries for the XJ. They are 265x75x15 size. Now this has a 3" lift so the OA diameter is not any problem. But they are quite wide and I mounted them on stock Jeep 10 spokes. The truck is now running 31x10.5x15 BFG AT's, but they are quite worn with over 60,000 miles on them. Eagle or any one, have you tried this size/setup?? CW

The write-ups I am talking about only utilize the booster, MC and prop valve. Basically three things need to be overcome. 1) convert lines from "bubble" to double flair. 2) reshape the op-rod on the booster 3) install a 1/4" spacer as the op-rod is a 1/4" too long. The WJ uses a 5on5 bolt pattern, the steering linkages are also different. Swapping in the whole front suspension and brakes is doable, but would be a large undertaking. CW

No more "meep-meep" horn for me!! CW

I have read a couple nice writeups. Omix-ada makes a complete kit with all required parts!! I have about half the parts in the garage... next summer it will likely become a reality for my MJ!!! Watch for the write up!!! :brows: :brows: CW

9/16" bolts work just fine.... :shake: :shake: Image Not Found Image Not Found I didn't bother to mention proper sizing.... I kinda figured the OP would know enough to buy a bolt that fit the hole properly... :shake: :doh: :yes: CW

I agree..... OR trash the whole shebang and upgrade to a WJ setup for FAR better braking all around.!! :bowdown: CW

The up position should give full REAR braking. IE as if the bed was loaded full. Remember its a LOAD SENSING valve. :yes: :brows: Many guys just "zip tie" it in that position and forget about it. but that's only a temp proposition. Bleeding the brakes with this valve is .. well a PIA!! many of us have just removed it, some have swapped in a XJ prop valve in place of the MJ's DISTRIBUTION block. it LOOKS like a prop valve but its not. CW

You can get them form the dealer, OR just go to a better hardware store and get grade bolts like many of us have done. CW

IIRC, it needs to be level with no weight in the bed. the factory linkage is a "ball" mounted to the pumpkin and a rod running from the valve to that ball... CW

This just about mirrors my methods. Yea its crude, but if your careful with the beads, it works. CO2 makes seating the beads a bit easier. I actually have a set to do this Sunday afternoon!!! Then for balancing, I have used the air-soft with mediocre results. now I rely on http://www.centramatic.com to balance my tires... Its a one time 200$ bill. You will never again have to worry about spinning a tire on a rim or sliding all the weights around the rim or those stick on weights that don't stick again!! CW

That's not the way it works.... If your going to eliminate the rear proportioning valve, you only need one line for the brakes. That other line is a "safety" that allows front brakes if the rears fail (or is that versa visa :dunno: ) Anyhow, you need to plug the return line and only run one single line into the rear brake hose to the axle. IIRC its the line running out of the "nose" of the distribution block up front is the one to plug... CW

Have I mentioned I REALLY like these tires??? CW

Fixed my brakes.... Remember last year when I had that shoe fail on the D44?.. well the other side when yesterday!!! Tonight aft work I pulled it apart and replaced it. the steel cracked tight at the wheel cylinder contact point. Then the shoes, which where only glued to the steel, came off... These new shoes have the liner riveted to the steel... CW

VERY NICE!!!!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: CW

Image Not Found "BAIL'EM OUT!!! ???? Hell, back in 1990, the Government seized the Mustang Ranch brothel in Nevada for tax evasion and, as required by law, tried to run it.. They failed and it closed. Now, we are trusting the economy of our country, our banking system, our auto industry and possibly our health plans to the same nit-wits who couldn't make money running a lady of the night house and selling whiskey?!" "What are we thinking" CW

CONGRATS!!! :thumbsup:

Thanks man, No, I don't have any more room!! Too many now!! I could fit one or two more and I'm reserving the space fr a really big one!!! CW

Had a great day today!! Saw a bunch of deer and another coyote. Got two deer!! Sorry for the cell pics... batt dead in camera. CW

I agree, The brake MC and booster is marginal for the factory brakes. If you get the disc rears, It would be a good idea to upgrade to the newer XJ Booster/Master cylinder or better yet, the WJ set-up. (Complete with prop valves) Then completely omit the troublesome rear prop valve entirely. I know its not an accurate comparison, but I have the 8.8 in my TJ and no changes have been made the the fact braking system. Everything works better then stock. CW