Boilermaker

sadly, i think i know what this guy is getting at; i remember the thread he probably tried to cut and paste an image from. Not that he'll be checking this much since he left his email address and probably hasn't logged into the site since he started this thread....

it looks like you are describing older OEM eliminator graphics used from 88 to ~91, minus the word eliminator at the top of the bed (which is still visible in your picture) and the large stripe below the molding. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_ima ... _large.jpg

How To: Gauge Cluster Swap / Odometer Recalibration (from NAXJA)

and on top of everything else, according to the autocheck report they list on their own ebay listing, it's had a front end collision. so much for original paint, no known accidents or body work.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f153/90- ... t-1055796/ Ran into the owner at the jy over memorial day weekend (during the trip he broke his windshield removal tool...). Spent at least an hour at the yard BS-ing, talking jeeps and looking over his MJ. Like his ad he's straight forward, and is plenty capable of helping the new owner out making improvements.

what it takes depends on what you want out of it besides reliability....are you building a rock crawler or street truck? Do you want to run regular or premium gas? Do you have lots of money or are you on a tight budget? Good places to start: Dino Savva's stroker to junker site and his 4.0 performance site. jeepstrokers.com, tons of good info here and knowledgeable people there. if you are unfamiliar with some of the terminology start with the FAQs section. Then read thru the projects section, especially some of the longer threads.

Search for "ACC" and "carpet". You'll find a couple of threads where their molded carpets are discussed.

this one? viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22081 looks like its for the iphone tho.

i needed only my fingers but having pliers available wouldn't hurt. if the latches are still there the rods probably are too. i've only taken a couple of tailgates apart and when i did the rods came off with the latches. The rods could be a little lower than handle level, but they shouldn't be too far inside of the hole for the tailgate. there's a 90 degree bend in the rods near the end that makes them easy to get a hold of. the truck at the jy was fairly rust free and the tailgate wasn't too bent up which probably made things easier for me.

Best case scenario is that even tho the handles are gone, the rods that go from the handle to the latch on the outside of the tailgate are still there. I was in the same situation this past weekend, found an MJ that was picked clean except for the tail lights which were probably left behind because the tailgate was up and had no handle. whoever took the handle didn't take the rods, so i was able to reach in, pull both rods toward the center and down came the tailgate.

the first thing i thought of was when i saw this thread was how many jeeps i saw at the jys during CFC and how few XJs and almost no MJ's i've seen in the junkyards since CFC ended. Tougher to find good parts at a decent price the last few months.

turion...this is a laptop right? If you had any confidence the rest of the motherboard was going to be ok, i would have suggested usb wifi. I worked thru high school and college building and repairing computers and i hated when a laptop came in. Almost everything is proprietary in a laptop, which means you are almost certainly stuck paying $200-300+ for a replacement HP motherboard which could give you the same problems down the road. Replacing any part in a laptop is slow and delicate work with tons of tiny parts to keep track of. But in a way its not a lot different than pulling and replacing an engine on a smaller scale; use the proper tools, take your time, document everything as you remove it, reverse the steps to reassemble. If you have the budget, i would buy a new laptop. if you've had that laptop for 40 months its at least 2 generations old; the money spent on a replacement motherboard pays for about 1/3 of a decent new laptop that should outperform your current laptop. Personally i would never buy another HP laptop again. I've owned one and received two others thru work over the years, and they all burned themselves up within a year of the warranty expiring. edit...did some searching and saw that hp issued a recall that includes your model, but the warranty is probably long expired. replacement motherboards range from 150 remanufactured to around 300 new. and i guess this laptop is somewhat of a problem child since it didn't take long to find a .

i remember seeing someone over at NAXJA put Prelude seats in an XJ. MKII toyota Supras ('82-'86) are light, fold forward and some come with manual adjustable wings and lumbar pumps. Since the seats are a fairly popular upgrade in some circles, there's also plenty of off the shelf reupholstering options. Some later Supras had 6 way power seats with power lumbar and wings.

I feel your pain....EXJ_TAB.pdf is the one with group locator page.

courtesy of great lakes XJ: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/99fsm.zip

You don't necessarily need the rods from a 4.2L, i reused the rods from my 4.0L. The 4.0L rods are a little lighter and supposedly a little stronger. But the main reason i used them was because it allowed me to use my first choice of piston. Like others have said, go over to jeepstrokers and read, read, read starting with the FAQs section....tons of good info.

Very cool of you to offer to do this...PM on its way.

Nice finds. Since the XJ had a black interior, i'm assuming the XJ limited was an 89ish or earlier. i believe if your MJ currently has buckets (or if you grab just the tracks from the JY MJ) the XJ seats should bolt up directly to the MJ tracks. I'm not 100% sure on that, so hopefully someone else will come along to confirm or correct what i just typed. if you have a bench and don't want to buy the MJ tracks, its possible, just a little more work. Hardwire as in using the 6-way power adjustments? the wiring itself would be just running power and ground from the fuse box to the power seat track...the problem is the power motors/mechanisms are part of the XJ seat track, and the XJ power seat track is not a direct bolt in on our MJs. if you aren't using any of the power accessories, you're going to have to cut a hole in the panels for your window crank. Other than that, i can't think any other major differences. there's no need to switch out your interior door handle either way, the handles are the same between the two. If you are going to use the power accessories, then you would need to grab the bezel out of the XJ limited for the switches.

I had the same issue with the seals on my cab covers and replaced it with something i saw in someone's build thread: 3M 1/4" weather strip. You can find it an most any hardware store. It didn't stick well to the vent cover, so i also used some 3m high strength adhesive i had left over from recovering my headliner.

12468 font really small so that i don't give the answer away easily to someone who wants to try to find it. if you quote my post, the answer will be there in the quote at a readable size... one method is to look at the last number in every line, they are in a pattern. the pattern should only change where the number gets longer (i.e. 999 vs. 1000). but then a new pattern begins. the line where the pattern unexpectedly changes is where the missing number is.

Someone around here will probably step up and help you quickly, but it's also possible to get a build sheet from Jeep using a form on their website. I received email responses within a couple of days for both vehicles i requested build sheets for. not sure if the build sheet would answer your question, but having one never hurts.

kind of looks like one of those street comanches (link to automan's website). Even tho its more likely an add on body kit, lowering springs, etc., you may want to get one of the chrysler/jeep guys on the forum to run the vin and see. I'm not a big fan of the style either, but if i ever came across one of the 100 street comanches and bought it, i'd leave it as is/restore it just because of how rare they were. either way its a nice find, especially considering the price. Good luck with the build.

didn't deal with the seller, but i have the ACC carpet. There are a few people around here who are happy with them, but i probably wouldn't buy another one. i bought the kit without the jute padding because the ACC carpet needs to be trimmed and i was putting down my own sound deadening anyway. Even with the sound deadening, the carpet was kind of baggy around the transmission hump. but other than that the fit was [original post read wasn't] ok. The drivers side footpad is in the right spot, but much smaller than stock. I'm also looking for some decent carpet mats because the ACC carpet doesn't feel as durable as the stock carpet was.

Do'h i replied to your pm before i started reading the classifieds and read the post above...ECM i have is from a '92. I don't think its going to work, but i'll post up and see if someone can confirm that. pics of the shift cable still coming tho.

i wouldn't trust what people put in their ebay listings, especially if they put a question mark in the title. Even if it did come from an MJ the owner could have done an HO drivetrain swap and it doesn't sound like the seller would know the difference. At the very least, i'd ask him for the part number off the item, looks like its there but too blurry to read in the picture. There are parts lists on the internet you can compare it to confirm it is what the seller claims it is. That all being said, if you can get to a junkyard you should be able to find one out of an xj or mj for a lot less than the $52 shipped (minimum) that he is asking. And you probably will get a warranty of some kind, you couldn't do any worse than his/her no warranty.