Boilermaker

You're only missing an urban legend spreading. Google "george turklebaum" and you'll get the idea.

Sorry I don't, that's another member's MJ who happened to take the best picture of the fender and panel. Here's the second page of the build thread, not quite close ups but some more angles: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8491&start=15

I don't think the hood will be a problem, they seem to be the same thru the XJ/MJ production run. I kept the original hood on my '92 and i didn't notice anything that didn't line up. Fenders will not match up in some places:

PM sent.

Like the power lock stuff pins missing on your harness, its probably for an accessory your donor XJ didn't have. The ground being a kind of common pin out its probably going to be difficult to trace to anything specific. not surprising, '96 was the bastard year...Jeep started implementing OBDII in the XJ slowly during the model year. From what i've read, if you pulled a wiring harness from an early '96 it could be a lot different than the same harness from late in the model year's run. Honestly what we are doing isn't really the way most people would go because of all the changes made as the model year went on. At least you have the legitimate reason of having donor XJ at your disposal, me not so much. You have as much of an understanding as i do. I don't know how they assign the number, i wouldn't be surprised if on a Grand Cherokee A241 did something entirely different. What i've been doing is going thru the connectors pages to find a connector with the circuit i'm looking for including the exact same wire size and color. That's usually accurate enough, but sometimes i double check the pinout with a wiring diagrams in the other parts of section 8. If you haven't gone thru and mapped it out, here's C203: 1. A241 14DG/RD Fuel Pump Relay Output 2. L60 18TN/DG Right Turn Signal 3. L90 18DB/RD Park Lame Switch Output 4. G4 20DB Fuel Level Sensor Signal (to instrument Panel) 5. L10 20BR/LG Back Up Lamp Switch Output 6. L61 18LG Left Turn Signal 7. G9 20GY/BK Brake Warning Lamp Driver 8. C15 12BK/RD Rear Window Defogger Relay Output 9. L34 18LG/BK exterior lighting 10. V20 18BK/YL Rear Washer Pump Motor Control 11. L50 18WT/TN Stop Lamp Switch Output 12. P2 18BK/WT Door Lock Relay Ouptut 13. P34 18PK/BK Door Unlock Relay Output 14. G4 18DB/WT Low Fuel Sense 15. K4 18BK/LB Sensor Ground 16. N/A

you didn't miss anything. The plug diagram in the FSM isn't labeled in '96 either. I took the circuit info (i.e. X58) and went back into other sections of the wiring diagrams to verify what each wire was used for. After a while it gets easier, X is part of the audio system, Z is ground, and so on. Unfortunately i have a paper copy; if i had a pdf copy i'd upload it somewhere for others to use. If you have more questions, I don't mind doing research and making more lists; its the research i'd be doing anyway when i was ready to install the harnesses in my truck.

I got a little lost reading thru your post...i think this should get you started, from the '96 FSM for C204: Pin 1 X58 18DB/OR Right Soundbar Speaker (-) Pin 2 X52 18DB/WT Right Soundbar Speaker (+) Pin 3 E2 20OR/BK Fused Panel Lamps Dimmer Switch Output Pin 4 Z1 14BK Ground Pin 5 M1 20PK Fused B(+) Pin 6 X57 18BR/LB Left Soundbar Speaker (-) Pin 7 X51 18BR/YL Left Soundbar Speaker (+) Pin 8 Empty Pin 9 M2 20YL Courtesy Lamp Switch Output Pin 10 G1018 LG Seat Belt Switch Sense Pin 11 V1318 BR/RD Rear Wiper Motor Control Pin 12 F2018 WT Fused Ignition Switch Output (Run) Pin 13 P3520 OR/VT Door Lock Switch Output (Lock) Pin 14 P3620 PK/VT Door Lock Switch Output (Unlock) Pin 15 Empty Pin 16 Empty

Anotherjeff did a really good write up with pictures, but the search can't find it. Most if not all of the info is in his build thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16945&hilit=door+panel&start=45 Its a few posts down from where the top of the page I linked. I followed his directions pretty closely and was happy with the way my door panels turned out.

i'm in the process of the same swap on a truck with the same specs (92 eliminator aw4/np231) from what i've come across while researching the swap, the np242 was never put behind a manual transmission from the factory so therefore no need to distinguish auto vs. manual in the parts list. Novak sells a pricey kits, or you could fab something up. did you check the id tag of the t-case for its build date? Since its Jeep, its possible they put in an older tcase they had on the shelf at factory or more likely somewhere in the donor vehicle's life an owner did a swap. When i got the build sheet for my truck, i found it started life as a 2wd manual (which explained my crappy gearing). And it wasn't til recently i looked at the id tags on the trans and tcase that came out of my truck and found a previous owner scavenged the parts from a 1987 for the 4x4 swap. from what i've read, unless you got extremely lucky you were probably going to have to do this anyway regardless of spine count. Post 91 AX-15s came with either short or long input shafts depending on year. Post 91 AW4s that would be found in front of a np242 required a medium length shaft (link to input gear chart). Some of the choices here are find a 91+ np231 behind an AX-15 at the jy and pull apart the tcase for its shaft, put out wtb threads on forums, or get a (or the) shaft from novak.

capital letter...sorry couldn't resist.

That is really nice work. i agree with automan tho...I'd also prefer to have the plate centered. I'd definitely be in line money in hand for a plate-centered roll pan. I don't know much about the process or if it is worth your time to do something you would wouldn't be using for yourself and just selling...but if you ever decided to do rear flares that matched the 97+ front flares there, i'd guess there would be lots of interest in that also.

no that isn't a stock slider, but whoever installed it did manage to reuse the stock window gasket. Stock rear slider is flush with the back of the cab:

I got a few things to work, sort of. When i pulled the first sentry system i found, i had painter's tape and a pen so i could mark the wires on each side of the firewall before i cut them. So i was able to put everything that went thru the firewall back together in one harness. I put the display module in the dash and made an adapter harness for the clock to work with the '92 wiring (easy enough). I hooked up the control module and ran power to it and left it on my front seat while i messed with the wiring and sensors. The problem i was having was what to do with pin for EN OFF IN, Choke Heater Relay. With that pin grounded, the system would stay on even when the key was in the off position. But I could get the lights to change on the display panel on the float type sensors (washer fluid, brake fluid, etc.) by moving the floats by hand. That's as far as i got before i pulled my truck apart to get it painted. I had a couple of other ideas since then, but never got around to trying them. I was going to make a hole in a plastic container, put the senor in the hole and dump some oil into it to test the axle, trans and tcase fluid level sensors i have (they are all the same). Maybe instead of grounding the Choke heater relay, i should have used an actual relay to solve that problem. I've still got a couple of display modules and control boxes and all the wiring and sensors in a box somewhere. If you get stuck somewhere it probably wouldn't take that long to pull it all out and hook everything up to a hobby battery and try a couple of things.

Thanks...i had all this stuff scattered around from the first time i tinkered with the system. I finally put everything in one place after i got a couple of PMs over at NAXJA after a similar thread a couple of months back.

Pages from the FSM (sorry about the lousy scan) Wiring Diagram Parts List

I have a 1985 revision of the M.R. 244 and some diagrams out of Mitchell Repair that I scanned and made into pdfs a while back. I'll look for the files in the morning

another vote FOR the waggy front end from a tasteless youngster. link to picture maybe now hornbrod can rest a little easier at night knowing there's hope for the future of this country. altho i doubt he'll approve of my plans to black out the chrome parts on the grille. edited to change large inline picture to a link

hornbrod, your memory serves you well, i've already pm'ed automan about my experiences....Due to time and monetary limitations, i gave it a try with just the ZJ overhead console and hoped it would work. And unfortunately it didn't, and as you point out the reason is mostly likely the information the overhead console needs is just not carried on our ODBI bus. There was/is a theory (not mine) that if you put a ZJ BCM into the mix that it could work, but that was further than i was able to take things. Nor have i heard of anyone being successful an OBDI XJ or MJ, yet. However, one person did manage to get this to work on what looks like a 97+ XJ from the pics. But this may have been due as much to the OBDII bus as it was to incorporating the ZJ BCM.

'91 non-intermittent wiper wiring diagram hope that helps

The all caps were used in 1986. The lower case letters were used from 1987-1992. Pretty much the extent of the difference as far as i know. Also in 1986 the levels of trim (X, XLS, Custom) were a little different than the later years. If i'm mistaken on the dates, i'm sure someone will set things straight.

If you are still stuck you may want to post a picture of this harness because something doesn't add up. XJs from 88-96 with power accessories came with three harnesses, one for each door and a cross body harness. If you want to verify this, check on page 246 of the 88-90 parts catalog, 259 of the 91-93 catalog and 239 of the 94-96 catalog. So if you have one continuous harness, someone either hacked up an OEM harness or it's home-made. If you don't want to do any splicing after running the wiring into the cab, your best bet is to make a connector somewhere, whether its the factory locations or where you cut in the middle. Widening the holes in the cab and/or door seems like it would be adding one more place for water to get into the cabin.

Just to clarify, are you using the OEM harnesses or some sort of home-made, all-in one harness that stretches from the inside of one door to the inside of the other door? If you are using something that's all one harness, i'd divide up the harness into three parts like the factory did, one part for each door and a cross body harness. Then run the door segments into the cab. You can reconnect the 3 segments inside the cab by splicing them or use automotive connectors.

Try it from the other direction, start with the wiring harness in the door and pull it into the cabin. Its been a while, but i'm fairly certain that's how I ran mine.

got it to run on my Droid X/android 2.1...nice work.

No app suggestions, but i've got a droid and would be happy to beta test or help out as needed.