Eagle

Yes. It has to be better than a vacuum leak.

The lights should work with the ignition off -- or not working. Start as Ωhm suggested.

That should be the correct reservoir. AFAIK, there were only two. The one for vehicles w/o cruise control were round, the one for vehicles with cruise control were oblong, like the one you have, and have two chambers -- one for the cruise control and one for everything else.

My '87 MJ is completely stock. It was the original factory LCA.

The problem with all those on-line calculators is that they are based on the theoretical (mathematical) diameter of the tire. In the real world, tires have some deflection of the sidewall and the effective radius (what the tire manufacturers call "static" radius) is less than the theoretical radius. That affects the actual number of revolutions per mile. The tables I linked to represent a spreadsheet that I created using actual tire manufacturer's revolutions per mile numbers, from published sales literature and tire company web sites. Since it's based on actual revolutions per mile, it should be more accurate than any numbers based on nominal tire size. The revolutions per mile I used are shown for each tire size. Note that the overdrive ratio used is 0.75:1. If your overdrive is 0.72 or 0.78, just adjust accordingly.

??? Cruiser, did you intend to offer a comment? Since there is already a thread on this topic, I''m closing this one. Parallel threads only create confusion.

Let us know when you price out your new "Gladiator."

What format do you want?

Don't listen to people who don't have any idea what they're blabbering about. The AMC 360 is a beast of an engine. I had a 1978 full-size Cherokee with the 360. Mine was only the 2-barrel version and I'm sure it would have pulled my house down if I had a rope or strap long enough to go around it. Your new Lady also has the wide wheel option, which is nice. (The fender flares are the giveaway.)

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html

I would have to agree with that statement. However, the statement leaves unanswered just what class the new "Gladiator" is in (other than "low," of course).

Dream on.

Yes. If the problem is blow-by pressurizing the crankcase, the excess pressure and oily fumes WILL vent wherever they can. If you seal up the fill cap, either the valve cover gasket or the rear main seal will be the next candidate for leakage.

You mean like an old coffee can? That's about as high performance as I've ever seen a catch can. All it is is a drip sump, it's not like it's under any major pressure. Don't go wasting a lot of money on some high tech solution to a low tech problem.

Whoever installed it was an idiot. Hey, you asked ...

I wasn't aware that any year was okay with GL-4. The chart at my Jeep dealership's parts room shows 10W-30 motor oil for the AX-15.

With that steering wheel and the black bumpers and flares, it's a base model, so the bucket seats are really an oddity. They look factory, but I didn't know you could order bucket seats as a factory option. Sunroof, sliding rear window, operable wing vent windows, tow mirrors, bucket seats, carpet -- that truck had to be a custom order for the original owner.

Since the XJ is unibody and the MJ cab is unibody, there's no such thing as a body lift on an XJ or MJ. However, so people with lifted XJs (more so than MJs) do a transfer case drop to correct driveshaft u-joint angle issues, and that can create shifting problems (but more with the transfer case than the transmission).

Congratulations on your "new" truck. It looks like you got a nice one. Could you post some photos of the interior? It looks like that's a base model truck, so the fact that it has bucket seats seems quite odd. If they are factory Jeep buckets, I'm sure there are any number of people (myself included) who would happily swap you a bench seat for a pair of Jeep MJ buckets. Did you ever mention whether it's an automatic or a 5-speed? If so, I missed it.

I think you're wasting your time. What you refer to as the "transmission cooler" in the radiator is there more to keep the auto tranny up to temperature in cold weather than it is to cool it. Remember, for the towing package Jeep added an external tranny cooler that attached outside of and in front of the radiator. The radiator for the 4.0L XJs and MJs is marginal at best. Throwing hot engine oil in there just means more heat that the already marginal radiator has to try to shed. If you want an external oil cooler ... get an external oil cooler, and don't use the radiator.

I hope they have improved their product. Several years ago I bought a set of their pre-bent SS lines for the rear axle of my '87 MJ. When they arrived, they were DEFINITELY not for a Comanche. I don't know what they were for, but not for a Comanche. I had to remove the old lines from my truck and send them to Classic so they could match the bends. I never received any explanation as to why the originals were so far off base. When I talked to them on the phone, they were adamant that I was wrong and that what they sent me should be a perfect fit.

Take another look at my signature ... As the saying goes, "They aren't makin' 'em like that any more." I'm here to help, but I can't condone taking a fairly pristine, all original MJ like that and butchering it. The MJ will take up to 31x10-50-15 tires on those rims with no modifications to the ride height, so it's not like you have to "build" (i.e. butcher) it just tu run off-road tires. And, since you mention Michigan, keep in mind that many off-road tires truly suck in snow. Our fearless leader, Pete M, spends half of his life in Michigan, so he's a good source for advice.

Oops. No, not a pun and not intended ... a good, old-fashioned typo. Should have read "keep." Stick around here and you'll see that I'm the world's worst typist. "Crashing" is when the synchronizers are worn so when you shift gears you get a big "clunk" instead of a smooth shift. The BA 10/5 is especially naughty for second gear ... I really have to granny shift second.

So much for Google. The engine in that photo has a mount for a mechanical fuel pump, so it's not a 4.0L.

If it's an automatic, it's an AW4, which is an excellent transmission if you just jeep clean fluid in it. If it's a 5-speed, it's a Peugeot BA 10/5. That transmission gets a very bad rap everywhere you go. It's really a light-duty transmission that shouldn't have been used behind the 4.0L engine. That said, if it drives okay, with no bearing noise and no synchronizer crashing when you shift, it's fine for daily driver use. Just don't try to speed shift it like Don "The Snake" Garlits at the drag strip. I have the BA 10/5 in my '88 Cherokee. It's at 287,000+ miles and no transmission problems ... but I shift like a little old lady, and I double clutch on all downshifts (because that's what my grandfather taught me to do). That truck looks very clean. It doesn't appear to need a lot of restoration. A new taillight is going to cost you. It doesn't interchange with the Cherokee, or with any other pickup, and good ones are rare.