Eagle

I would have to agree with that statement. However, the statement leaves unanswered just what class the new "Gladiator" is in (other than "low," of course).

Dream on.

Yes. If the problem is blow-by pressurizing the crankcase, the excess pressure and oily fumes WILL vent wherever they can. If you seal up the fill cap, either the valve cover gasket or the rear main seal will be the next candidate for leakage.

You mean like an old coffee can? That's about as high performance as I've ever seen a catch can. All it is is a drip sump, it's not like it's under any major pressure. Don't go wasting a lot of money on some high tech solution to a low tech problem.

Whoever installed it was an idiot. Hey, you asked ...

I wasn't aware that any year was okay with GL-4. The chart at my Jeep dealership's parts room shows 10W-30 motor oil for the AX-15.

With that steering wheel and the black bumpers and flares, it's a base model, so the bucket seats are really an oddity. They look factory, but I didn't know you could order bucket seats as a factory option. Sunroof, sliding rear window, operable wing vent windows, tow mirrors, bucket seats, carpet -- that truck had to be a custom order for the original owner.

Since the XJ is unibody and the MJ cab is unibody, there's no such thing as a body lift on an XJ or MJ. However, so people with lifted XJs (more so than MJs) do a transfer case drop to correct driveshaft u-joint angle issues, and that can create shifting problems (but more with the transfer case than the transmission).

Congratulations on your "new" truck. It looks like you got a nice one. Could you post some photos of the interior? It looks like that's a base model truck, so the fact that it has bucket seats seems quite odd. If they are factory Jeep buckets, I'm sure there are any number of people (myself included) who would happily swap you a bench seat for a pair of Jeep MJ buckets. Did you ever mention whether it's an automatic or a 5-speed? If so, I missed it.

I think you're wasting your time. What you refer to as the "transmission cooler" in the radiator is there more to keep the auto tranny up to temperature in cold weather than it is to cool it. Remember, for the towing package Jeep added an external tranny cooler that attached outside of and in front of the radiator. The radiator for the 4.0L XJs and MJs is marginal at best. Throwing hot engine oil in there just means more heat that the already marginal radiator has to try to shed. If you want an external oil cooler ... get an external oil cooler, and don't use the radiator.

I hope they have improved their product. Several years ago I bought a set of their pre-bent SS lines for the rear axle of my '87 MJ. When they arrived, they were DEFINITELY not for a Comanche. I don't know what they were for, but not for a Comanche. I had to remove the old lines from my truck and send them to Classic so they could match the bends. I never received any explanation as to why the originals were so far off base. When I talked to them on the phone, they were adamant that I was wrong and that what they sent me should be a perfect fit.

Take another look at my signature ... As the saying goes, "They aren't makin' 'em like that any more." I'm here to help, but I can't condone taking a fairly pristine, all original MJ like that and butchering it. The MJ will take up to 31x10-50-15 tires on those rims with no modifications to the ride height, so it's not like you have to "build" (i.e. butcher) it just tu run off-road tires. And, since you mention Michigan, keep in mind that many off-road tires truly suck in snow. Our fearless leader, Pete M, spends half of his life in Michigan, so he's a good source for advice.

Oops. No, not a pun and not intended ... a good, old-fashioned typo. Should have read "keep." Stick around here and you'll see that I'm the world's worst typist. "Crashing" is when the synchronizers are worn so when you shift gears you get a big "clunk" instead of a smooth shift. The BA 10/5 is especially naughty for second gear ... I really have to granny shift second.

So much for Google. The engine in that photo has a mount for a mechanical fuel pump, so it's not a 4.0L.

If it's an automatic, it's an AW4, which is an excellent transmission if you just jeep clean fluid in it. If it's a 5-speed, it's a Peugeot BA 10/5. That transmission gets a very bad rap everywhere you go. It's really a light-duty transmission that shouldn't have been used behind the 4.0L engine. That said, if it drives okay, with no bearing noise and no synchronizer crashing when you shift, it's fine for daily driver use. Just don't try to speed shift it like Don "The Snake" Garlits at the drag strip. I have the BA 10/5 in my '88 Cherokee. It's at 287,000+ miles and no transmission problems ... but I shift like a little old lady, and I double clutch on all downshifts (because that's what my grandfather taught me to do). That truck looks very clean. It doesn't appear to need a lot of restoration. A new taillight is going to cost you. It doesn't interchange with the Cherokee, or with any other pickup, and good ones are rare.

Put the pickup tube in the freezer overnight. Put the pump body in the oven for an hour or so at about 250 degrees.

Not sure why this 4-month old thread suddenly got revived, but since I missed it the first time around I'll chime in here. First point: The Renix ECU doesn't "learn" anything. It has no static memory. Every start is a new start. A start that dies after a few seconds usually indicates a faulty fuel pump ballast resistor. The start circuit bypasses the resistor, which allows the engine to start. When the key is moved back to the RUN position, if the ballast resistor is bad the fuel pump can't run, so the engine sputters along until it has used up whatever fuel it received during the START cycle, and that's all she wrote. 2360, the ballast resistor on a 1988 is on the inside of the driver's side fender, next to the air box. Try removing the spade connectors and jumping them together. See of that allows the engine to keep running.

I guess I need to pull the drive train out of my '86 XJ 2.5L before I send the hulk to the boneyard.

Those bosses look inherently stronger than the motor mount bosses, and I'm sure the motor mount bolts impart much more load on the mounting bosees. BTW -- where'd you get a photo of a 4.2L block?

Well, I'm such a knuckle-dragging Neanderthal that I don't do Twitter, so the fact he has a Twitter feed doesn't impress or inform me.

So many questions. This should probably have been posted as several individual questions, but here goes: Oil in the air filter is caused by engine blowby. There's always some, and the CCV system (the 4.0L doesn't have a PCV valve) can handle it when the engine is new and the blowby is minimal. As the engine wears, the amount of blowby increases until, eventually, the CCV system can't handle it. At that point, the excess blowby pressurizes the crankcase, and the back pressure then blows oily fumes back through what is supposed to be the air intake from the valve cover to the air box. If you're having a problem, I'd suggest doing a compression test and a leak-down test. Air from the defroster vents is the default position. If you have air from the defrost vents when the controls are set for something else, you have a vacuum leak. There is a vacuum reservoir (or should be) located behind the front bumper, on the right hand side. Often the vacuum line to that reservoir rots where it passes under the battery tray. Or, your reservoir may be cracked and incapable of holding vacuum. Replace your thermostat, and be sure your cooling system is properly filled. Yes, there should be backup lights. The clear section in each taillight is the backup lights.

Not possible. The CPS is not past of the flex plate, and there is no flex plate "assembly." A '93 flex plate would not work with a Renix ignition/injection system. The two systems operate on different principles and are not compatible.

My question was -- and is -- addressed to KyleStock. He made reference to " the brand and its design relative to similar rigs from other automakers." Before responding to his question, I think we need to know what vehicles he includes in that "similar rigs from other automakers" category.

Factory optional heavy-duty axle, 1984-1986.

What do you consider to be a vehicle from any other manufacturer that is similar to a Jeep?