Eagle

I'm happy that you got it solved, and many thanks for posting the solution so other people can benefit from your experience.

??? With the engine running? We need to reboot this discussion. Begin at the beginning. You're going to make a cold start. Engine cold, ignition off. Gauge reads 40? Always? Every single time? Ignition turned on -- what does gauge read? Engine started, at idle speed -- what does gauge read? Run engine up to 2000 RPM -- what does gauge read? Allow engine to warm up to normal operating temperature ... Idle speed -- what does gauge read? Run engine up to 2000 RPM -- what does gauge read? By the way -- since you had the oil pump out, did you prime it when you reinstalled it?

It doesn't matter what it reads when the engine is off. What counts is what it reads when the engine is running. The older oil pressure gauges didn't return to zero when you switched off the ignition, and I don't know what year they changed that. You may not have anything to worry about. 50 psi is a bit high for idle, but ... what weight oil are you running, and what's the air temperature? Colt oil is a LOT thicke/heavier than hot oil. Do the pressure readings change when the engine gets up to full operating temperature?

Painted.

No, they were a light/medium gray.

Okay, it's a 231.

One further thought -- if the previous owner replaced both lines to the rear, you should confirm that he didn't get them crossed. The one from the "nose" of the front distribution block is the normal circuit. That line should go to the height/load sensing valve mounted to the frame above the differential. The line from the bottom/front outlet of the distribution block goes to the tee fitting adjacent to the rear height sensing valve.

The light being on (if the parking brake is off) indicates that the shuttle valve has tripped to the bypass position. Bleed the rear brakes with a front bleeder left open when it's like that. Once you have done that, close the front bleeder that was open, and then stomp sharply on the brake peddle a couple/few times. That should reset the shutle valve to the normal position. If it doesn't, re-bleed the front caliper you left open, and repeat the stomping. You MUST reset the shuttle valve before you can complete bleeding the rear circuit. Here's a photo of what the front distribution block looks like inside: In this photo the shuttle valve is in the normal position -- centered. The plunger for the switch is down, in the "wasp waist" portion of the shuttle plunger. If the front brakes fail, the plunger moves to the rear (to the right, in the photo). The black O-ring farthest to the left moves past the point labeled "Emergency Bypass Circuit," opening that vertical passage. Once that circuit nas been bled, you need to close that passage again to properly bleed the normal rear brake circuit.

I wouldn't buy any new Craftsman ratchets. Mine were made in the USA and I've had most of them for 40 or 50 years. The only one I've had to replace is one of the 3/8 flex-head rathchets. The new ones are made in China and they aren't nearly as high quality. If I had to buy a set of mechanics tools today, I don't know what I'd buy.

This discussion has morphed from an engine swap to a transmission replacement -- and there's a new thread going on that topic, so this one is closed.

Really? I didn't think the Grand Cherokee ever came with a 231 transfer case. I agree with Mean Lemons on the tranny. Aside from the 42RE being a POS, it won't be compatible with your chassis harness or TCU. You really should go with an AW4. (IMHO)

Another vote for just carrying in the ratchet and socket, not the whole set. I've replaced Sears Craftsman ratchets under their lifetime warranty. No arguments about "Bring in the set" -- they have a rack of replacement ratchets under the counter, they just hand you a new (rebuilt, in recent years) one and off you go. Individual sockets should be no problem -- they still have a rack full of Kobalt sockets. Why the [bleep] would they even want to replace an entire set when all you need is two pieces? That's idiotic.

As was asked in your thread about the engine swap -- what engine, transmission, and transfer case are in the Grand Cherokee?

Lookin' good.

But did you verify that the brake warning light was on, which is the way you verify that the emergency bypass circuit has opened? Both links I provided above spell out a very specific procedure for properly bleeding the MJ brakes. If your procedure didn't follow those steps -- in the same sequence -- your brakes aren't properly bled regardless of how much fluid you pushed (or pulled) through the system.

Patient is alive, but I'm supposed to change the dressing over the incision on Saturday. The incision is high on the left side, just beneath the left armpit. I have no idea how-in-ell I'm supposed to change that.

There is no "return" for the rear brake circuit. There are many internet sources that claim this, but it's incorrect. The second line to the rear is an emergency bypass line. The purpose is to bypass the load-sensing proportioning valve and allow full brake pressure to the rear if the front brake circuit fails. Under normal conditions, no brake fluid ever flows through that bypass circuit, but it's there and it must be bled if you want the rear brakes to function properly. There is a special procedure in the FSM for bleeding the brakes in an MJ with the load-sensing proportioning valve. https://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/ https://comancheclub.com/topic/40428-brake-bleeding/?tab=comments#comment-407703 Also, the smaller (front) reservoir in the master cylinder is the one that supplies the rear brakes, so the fact it appears to be drawing fluid from there is entirely correct.

For those who care, it would be interesting to know the year associated with Cruiser's image and Schardein's image. Also the dimensions. They convey the same information but someone trying to do an accurate reproduction of the label for their truck would probably want to use the template that's correct for the model year.

Who cares? They're both aluminum-cased, faux Dana 44s.

Yeah. After it was in, the doctor said, "You're a real trooper. Well done." My response was, "So why do I feel like such a wimp?"

This is what the parts manuals refer to as a "Type 1" cluster. I much prefer it to the cluster that came in my '88 XJ. It should work in any 6-cylinder XJ or MJ through 1990. However, the Type 1 clusters can't be adjusted for 4-cylinder / 6-cylinder operation. The Type 2 tachometer has a potentiometer that can be used to calibrate it to 4 or 6 cylinders.

I special ordered both my 2000 XJ Sport and my late wife's 2000 XJ Classic. I ordered both without ABS. My recollection is that, even in 2000, ABS came only with a Dana 35 rear axle.

I'm surprised that the slave cylinder is larger diameter than the master. The master may simply not be moving enough fluid. I would double check with novak to be sure they sent you the correct parts.

Yes. Also known as "Cunifer" -- for the chemical abbreviations for the three major elements in the alloy. Cu is copper, Ni is nickel, and Fe is steel (actually, Fe is for iron -- think where the term "ferrous metal" comes from). I bought two 25-foot coils of it from a vendor on Amazon, and it's all I use now. My friend the VW shop foreman says all the European car makers use the stuff now, and that it stands up much better against the liquid salt auto eater they use on the roads in Connecticut these days. It is very easy to work with, and easy to flare. If you're a neat freak, they also make a device for straightening the coil stock to make long runs look right.

In my case, I have had a fairly heavy cough since New Year's weekend. The doctors think the severe coughing finally ruptured some air sacs in the lung, allowing air to escape into the chest cavity. Other causes (besides physical trauma, like a broken rib) can include smoking, COPD, pneumonia, and a couple of other factors I can't remember at the moment. Oh -- and being tall and skinny apparently is a factor (not that I'm tall or skinny these days, but the doc said tall, skinny, basketball player types are more prone than the rest of us to see a collapsed lung in their 20s. Otherwise, it's more likely in us olde phartes.)