Eagle

What missing pics? I just reviewed the entire thread, and I see lots of pics -- and no posts that appear to be missing pics.

Plus the Sylvania XtraVision "bulbs" I mentioned above provide more wattage (and thus more light) on low beam than the factory headlamps, as well as a longer rated life. The SilverStars are also claimed to put out more light on low beam, but if you look at the rated lamp life, the SilverStars suck and the XtraVisions knock the SilerStars out of the park.

Just think how many Sylvania XtraVision bulbs you can buy for $600 ...

If they are D.O.T. approved they are legal for street use. Brightness is not the issue -- aiming is the issue. Too many people just pop in new headlights of a different type and then don't bother to aim them.

Yes. The Jeep 4.2L, 4.0L, and 2.5L engines were AMC engines. That engine family began in 1964, as a 232 cubic inch, carbureted in-line six that was advertised as "The six that performs like an eight." (Which was more than a little optimistic, but they were and are great engines, and with minimal care will easily keep running for 300,000+ miles.

Regardless of which side of the HO vs Renix debate you come down on, 1996 is almost without debate the worst year for the HO. 1996 was the first year that Jeep moved from OBD-1 to OBD-2, and they did it only because it was mandated by the federal government. They knew they were coming out with a significant overhaul of the platform for model year 1997, so the 1996 with OBD-2 was a kludge. Some might regard it as something else, the vernacular description of which involves something about clusters and sexual acts. If I were using a '96 as the base for a swap, I would swap in the mechanical components and maintain the 1988 Renix electrical and fuel system. At least that way you'll know what you're dealing with.

Yes. My fuzzy recollection is that the 2.5L oxygen sensor doesn't have a heater.

I suspect it's the sensor, but there's a quick and dirty check for the gauge. With the ignition on (engine does not need to be running): Disconnect the wire from the sensor, and don't let it touch anything. The gauge should go to 80 psi. Ground the sensor wire directly to the engine block or chassis -- the gauge should swing all the way to zero. If it passes this test, and you have oil pumping out with the sender removed, it's probably the sender.

Many years ago, one of early members in NAXJA told me that he used backing plates off an older, drum brake Ford Crown Vic.

That's a very good possibility. The distribution block isn't difficult to work on -- the hardest part will be getting it out of the vehicle. Give it a good cleaning out and see if that makes the difference.

I'm happy that you got it solved, and many thanks for posting the solution so other people can benefit from your experience.

??? With the engine running? We need to reboot this discussion. Begin at the beginning. You're going to make a cold start. Engine cold, ignition off. Gauge reads 40? Always? Every single time? Ignition turned on -- what does gauge read? Engine started, at idle speed -- what does gauge read? Run engine up to 2000 RPM -- what does gauge read? Allow engine to warm up to normal operating temperature ... Idle speed -- what does gauge read? Run engine up to 2000 RPM -- what does gauge read? By the way -- since you had the oil pump out, did you prime it when you reinstalled it?

It doesn't matter what it reads when the engine is off. What counts is what it reads when the engine is running. The older oil pressure gauges didn't return to zero when you switched off the ignition, and I don't know what year they changed that. You may not have anything to worry about. 50 psi is a bit high for idle, but ... what weight oil are you running, and what's the air temperature? Colt oil is a LOT thicke/heavier than hot oil. Do the pressure readings change when the engine gets up to full operating temperature?

Painted.

No, they were a light/medium gray.

Okay, it's a 231.

One further thought -- if the previous owner replaced both lines to the rear, you should confirm that he didn't get them crossed. The one from the "nose" of the front distribution block is the normal circuit. That line should go to the height/load sensing valve mounted to the frame above the differential. The line from the bottom/front outlet of the distribution block goes to the tee fitting adjacent to the rear height sensing valve.

The light being on (if the parking brake is off) indicates that the shuttle valve has tripped to the bypass position. Bleed the rear brakes with a front bleeder left open when it's like that. Once you have done that, close the front bleeder that was open, and then stomp sharply on the brake peddle a couple/few times. That should reset the shutle valve to the normal position. If it doesn't, re-bleed the front caliper you left open, and repeat the stomping. You MUST reset the shuttle valve before you can complete bleeding the rear circuit. Here's a photo of what the front distribution block looks like inside: In this photo the shuttle valve is in the normal position -- centered. The plunger for the switch is down, in the "wasp waist" portion of the shuttle plunger. If the front brakes fail, the plunger moves to the rear (to the right, in the photo). The black O-ring farthest to the left moves past the point labeled "Emergency Bypass Circuit," opening that vertical passage. Once that circuit nas been bled, you need to close that passage again to properly bleed the normal rear brake circuit.

I wouldn't buy any new Craftsman ratchets. Mine were made in the USA and I've had most of them for 40 or 50 years. The only one I've had to replace is one of the 3/8 flex-head rathchets. The new ones are made in China and they aren't nearly as high quality. If I had to buy a set of mechanics tools today, I don't know what I'd buy.

This discussion has morphed from an engine swap to a transmission replacement -- and there's a new thread going on that topic, so this one is closed.

Really? I didn't think the Grand Cherokee ever came with a 231 transfer case. I agree with Mean Lemons on the tranny. Aside from the 42RE being a POS, it won't be compatible with your chassis harness or TCU. You really should go with an AW4. (IMHO)

Another vote for just carrying in the ratchet and socket, not the whole set. I've replaced Sears Craftsman ratchets under their lifetime warranty. No arguments about "Bring in the set" -- they have a rack of replacement ratchets under the counter, they just hand you a new (rebuilt, in recent years) one and off you go. Individual sockets should be no problem -- they still have a rack full of Kobalt sockets. Why the [bleep] would they even want to replace an entire set when all you need is two pieces? That's idiotic.

As was asked in your thread about the engine swap -- what engine, transmission, and transfer case are in the Grand Cherokee?

Lookin' good.

But did you verify that the brake warning light was on, which is the way you verify that the emergency bypass circuit has opened? Both links I provided above spell out a very specific procedure for properly bleeding the MJ brakes. If your procedure didn't follow those steps -- in the same sequence -- your brakes aren't properly bled regardless of how much fluid you pushed (or pulled) through the system.