Eagle

No.

See my post above, from February 10.

If the gauge is good and a mechanical (manual) gauge shows no pressure, the sender isn't the problem. Drop the pan and replace the oil pump. Double check your work from when you were in there before -- be sure there isn't a spun bearing.

Heh, heh ... The grille is upside down. That is a VERY clean Comanche. I'm envious. They think it's "amazing" that the BA 10/5 transmission is still working after 107,000 miles? My '88 XJ is at 287,000+ with the original BA 10/5, and no "crunchiness."

I would agree with those who suggest just buying a different vehicle ... if this was an XJ, of which there are a lot around. But this is an MJ, it was in pristine condition before the ouchie, and there just aren't that many MJs around. To me it seems almost a sacrilege to scrap such a nice truck when it can be repaired. Cab tweaked? I doubt it. The windshield isn't even cracked -- how badly tweaked could it be? My 2000 XJ was hit almost that badly in the right front corner a couple of years ago. It was repaired, and by looking at it (or driving it) you can't tell that anything ever happened. I think this truck is worth repairing. The key is to investigate the most cost effective way to accomplish that. I think welding in a replacement subframe "ear" is the preferred route, rather than trying to straighten the pretzel. Jeep Driver's suggestions on making the body shop's work easier by doing as much prep and removal as you can have a lot of merit.

What are you saying is the one on the bottom -- the one you kept, or the one you removed? You need to plug the outlet on the forward bottom of the distribution block. The line to the rear flex hose comes off the "nose" of the distribution block. If you can't find a plug for the one on the bottom, buy the shortest 1/2-20 (SAE fine thread) bolt you can find and cut it down in length.

Apparently this beast was constructed on the chassis of a U.S. military Oshkosh 1075 multi-load vehicle platform. But that's a cab forward chassis, so this involved more than a bit of custom engineering. I want to know what the front clip is from. It looks like a 1940s or 1950s Diamond T or Reo nose. 1947 Diamond T:

If you removed the rear proportioning valve but you didn't change anything in the front -- it can't work. You have to remove the bypass line from the front and connect the remaining line directly to the flex hose at the rear axle.

or ... some people have more money than common sense. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6760511/Abu-Dhabi-Sheikh-builds-incredible-ten-wheeled-vehicle-military-truck-Jeep.html

If anyone wants to see a pair of similar Jeeps in action, the old television series The Rat Patrol is available on Youtube.

I stumbled across this little gem on Youtube, completely by accident. Naturally, I had to watch it -- and forgot what I was looking for by the time it ended.

Forget a source for the seals -- the problem is the design of the window, and the seals. When I bought my original 1988 Cherokee -- new -- it was a factory special order. The operable vents were an option in the 1988 model year, and I paid extra to get them. They leaked from Day One. I complained to the dealer about it, they had me talk to the factory service rep, and he cheerfully told me they had a fix. The "fix"? Remove the operable vents and replace with the fixed windows. And they wouldn't refund me the money I spent to get the operable vents. So I sealed them with silicone, and 30 years later they still don't leak. But they also don't open. Bottom line -- you can't fix them. They leak by design. If you must have operable vents, be prepared to accept that they WILL leak.

Unfortunately, there are also several errors. The list is an interesting starting point but, as Ronald Reagan said, 'Trust but verify." For example: As I hope everyone knows, XJ rear axles are NOT bolt-in swaps for an MJ. The spring percehes have to be relocated -- even if using them to change to spring-over, the center-to-center spacing is wrong.

Are you aware that the 97+ header doesn't quite align with the 96 and older fenders? The 97+ header has rounded radii at the upper, outer corners. The 97+ fenders follow this contour. The older fenders have a sharp chamfer at that point. The best way, then, is to use 97+ fenders with the 97+ header. I know one person who didn't. What he did was to use Bondo to fill in the upper corners of the new style header. Then he installed it, and filed it down to match the contours of the fenders.

Could also be caused by incorrect toe setting. That's easy to check with a tape measure.

The operable vent windows were available as an option in all years of the MJ, and on the XJ through the 1996 model year. The Cherokee changed to a full window in 1997, but the latch location was shifted slightly so the 1997+ doors require relocating the strike on the door post to use them. Tow mirrors were an option, and I believe they were available in all years of the MJ.

I missed that. Does the 2.5L use the bellcrank linkage?

Clean idle air controller. Also -- on the Renix models (which includes 1990), the accelerator cable doesn't connect the gas pedal directly to the throttle body. The cable goes to a bellcrank assembly that's mounted on the frame rail on the driver's side, below the brake master cylinder. The bellcrank is a pivot, and over the years the pivot can get dirty and rusty, restricting movement. Try spritzing it with PB Blaster.

Looks to me like the original throttle body injection. There were no carbureted 4-cylinder Comanches. The Comanche came out in 1986, and Jeep only used carburetors on the 2.5L engine in 1984 and 1985. Look again -- it it really is a carburetor, then the engine has been swapped in.

What year, what engine and transmission, have you ade any modifications? Give us something to start with, please ...

I agree completely. I would get the replacement even if I never used it. Companies that offer "lifetime" warranties and then try to back off because of a "change in policy" piss me off greatly. Back in the day, Wordperfect did that. They offered free, lifetime tech support. And then, one fine day, they simply dropped free tech support. Then they wondered why people went with Word rather than buying Wordperfect. Idjits. I learned just a few days ago that some other major company had bailed on their lifetime warranties. I wish I could remember who it was. I really think the FTC should prosecute any company that reneges on a lifetime warranty or service or support policy.

I would take it back and make them replace it just because ...

Long bed and short bed -- those are the choices.

Did you mean on the spark plugs? I don't think the 2.5L ever changed to coil pack ignition. The 4.0L XJ didn't get it until the 2000 model year.

Be sure to save the rear flares. The fronts are the same as for a Cherokee, and those are available new on the aftermarket. The MJ rear flares are unique, and are NOT available. Save the backing plates, too -- the studs will almost certainly break off, but there are ways to repair that. In fact, if they're solid and if you have the body work skills, it would be great if you could save the complete rear quarters.