Eagle

Awhile back (maybe two or three years???) someone posted photos of an MJ that had been modified to use late-model (97-2001) Cherokee taillights. They looked pretty good, IIRC. I don't think the early XJ taillights would work -- they're too wide and too squared off.

So compromise and go with 30x9.50s

How do you plan to use the vehicle? Having run an XJ on 30x9.50-15s and an MJ on 31x10.50-15s for a number of years, my view is that the larger tires have some usefulness if you'll be off-roading in soft terrain, but they don't help anything on pavement, and they make things significantly worse in rain and snow. A 235/75-15 is almost exactly the same diameter as a 30x9.50-15, but it's a bit narrower both at the tread and at the maximum sidewall width. I would go with the 235s.

No pics today -- camera died. But ... clutch peddle looks just like the one in the photos in post #19. The actual peddle pad sits in the same place, so I've been driving it since early 2000 and I never noticed that the lever part is totally different from the earlier ones.

Didn't feel well enough to step out the door today (Thursday). I'll get it Friday -- got the camera right next to the door with a note to remind myself.

Speaking as a Vietnam veteran: Claymore mine

For that, the Dana 35 is fine. My '88 XJ has 287,000+ miles on the factory Dana 35.

I don't pay much attention to gummint fuel mileage lies. I don't remember what my '88 XJ 4.0L was supposed to be rated at, but I know that when it was one or two years old I got 28 MPG on a trip from Connecticut to Vermont, with a GF, two kids, and all out clothing and stuff for the kids to play with for a weekend on board. That was far better than whatever the EPA numbers said. I just drove my 2000 XJ 4.0L from Connecticut to central Pennsylvania and back. 24.23 MPG for just over 600 miles. Again, I'm pretty certain that's better than what the official numbers were.

No, I have a 2000 Cherokee. That will show you what it's supposed to look like.

In the morning I'll try to remember to take a photo of the clutch peddle in my 2000 Cherokee.

Does anyone know what happened? I haven't seen any information -- mechanical problem, or lost control?

That fuse box/panel does not mount to the dashboard. It mounts THROUGH the firewall.

Not possible. The Comanche fuse panel goes through the firewall, above and to the left of the clutch peddle. It's two pieces -- one half on the engine room side of the firewall, the other half inside the driver's footwell. As I posted above, the 2001 Cherokee fuse panel is over on the passenger side, in the door post and concealed by the kick panel. There's no way to "mate" them, they are totally different. That fuse panel in your second photo is the original Comanche fuse panel, it's not from a 2001 Cherokee. Put it back where it belongs and there should be no problem.

The 2001 Cherokee has two fuse panels -- one is behind the passenger side kick panel, to the right of the footwell and forward of the A pillar; the other is under the hood, on the passenger side. That said, early XJs and MJs had manual transmissions -- I can't understand why there should be any interference between the original fuse panel and the clutch linkage.

Also make certain the line you get is rated for ethanol.

Yes, she was.

The 4.0L engine was not offered in the '86 MJ. It came out in the 1987 model year.

Yeah, but what fun is that? Sanity is overrated.

It's an '87 2.5L. It has throttle body injection. Fuel should not be spitting out of a hole in the side of the throat, it should be spitting out of the injector. Which still doesn't account for a lack of spark. Have you tried verifying the spark with one of these? https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html

IMHO that's a myth. There is no valid reason I've ever seen to support this notion. When I started using silicone, I just did a complete flush with the silicone, and bled until I was getting clean silicone at each wheel. The first one I did was my '88 Cherokee. It's now at 287,000+ miles, and I switched to silicone brake fluid at about 80,000. So I've been driving it on silicone brake fluid with mostly* the original lines and hoses for over 200,000 miles and at least 20 years. * I have replaced the rear wheel cylinders on each side at least once.

1. Excellent choice on the cunifer brake line. It's easy to work with and more resistant to corrosion than the crap they sell at the parts chains. Some of the fittings into the front distribution block are larger than standard for the 3/16" brake line, so you may need to recycle those. Although the photo suggests that kit may include a few larger fittings, so those may do it. The Harbor Freight flare tool is junk. Buy a good one. 2. I would try to salvage the original brake line supports wherever possible. 3, The Wilwood proportioning valve is a good choice if you will be eliminating the rear height sensing valve. (Since you said it doesn't work, I assume you'll be eliminating it.) 4. No idea. Last I knew, braided line wasn't D.O.T. approved for street use. That may have changed. 5. DOT 4 has a slightly higher boiling point than DOT 3 but it's basically the same stuff, and it still attracts moisture. I ionly use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It's got a VERY high boiling point, and it's not hygroscopic. 6. Interesting. Personally, I'd spend a LOT of time fixing the factory parking brake before I would try a kludge like that, but Tom Woods is a reputable shop so ... whatever flpoats your boat.

What's the question?

There are no other codes on the VIN plate. The official VIN plate is embedded in the dashboard, where it can be read through the windshield. It contains only the VIN. I think you're referring to the vehicle option plate, found either on the driver's door or under the hood. That does include paint codes, and I don't recall what else.

The one on the right isn't wearing Jeep wheels. Throw it back.

For museums and history, I can't argue against Boston. Downtown Boston is compact compared to New York City, for example, and there's a walking route marked on the sidewalks for a self-guided experience. I've been there a few times and I've done the walking tour, but I have never bothered to check what museums are there. Personally, I'm not that big on museums, and I can't imagine a 2-year old getting much enjoyment out of that. Somebody mentioned Nova Scotia. That's a great suggestion, IMHO, and it could be combined with my favorite place on the planet, Acadia National Park in Maine. I was going to suggest that there's a ferry between Bar Harbor (adjacent to Acadia National Park) and Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. But ... I just looked, and the ferry isn't running because the terminal in Bar Harbor is being rebuilt. You can certainly drive around, but it's a long drive that's scenic in a rustic, coastal way, but very long. Also, you need passports to go to Nova Scotia. If you (and the kiddo) don't already have your passports, I don't know how long that takes these days. Depending on when you want to make this trip, that could be a factor. Somebody else mentioned the Grand Canyon. That's spectacular but, IMHO, not enough to spend a week there. I've been there three times and, each time, one full day was enough. If you want to take the mule ride down to the bottom, that adds a day. For history, I like the suggestion of Colonial Williamstown. There's a lot of early American history in and around Williamstown, so that could be a good place to spend a week. You said you've been to Pennsylvania, but what part? In Philadelphia, there's Independence Hall, Liberty Bell park (or monument, whatever it is), the Society Hill section, and then from Philly you're within easy range of Lancaster and Pennsylvania Dutch country.