Eagle

The 2.5L I-4 with the 5-speed manual tranny.

Considering that Chrysler doesn't currently build anything worthy of the Jeep name -- exactly how would we be "ahead of the game" paying big bucks for inferior machinery? The suggestion does not compute ...

It says it can be bolted up to older Cherokees "without modification." That should include Comanches, as well, since XJs and MJs are identical at the firewall and forward. However, I don't believe it's correct that no modifications are required. Others have done this swap, and I think you can find a write-up or two. I have not done it, but I think I recall something about the length of the pushrod the brake peddle being different.

Mine was the same. A namby-pamby "promise" to add me to their focus group list if they ever get around to it. Bleeyah!

It's a common misconception that all pipe wrenches are Stilson wrenches. Not so. A Stilson has a pivot, like this: An ordinary pipe wrench looks like this:

Score one for Pete. Correct. Pipe wrenches are not Stillson wrenches. I actually have a Stillson in one of my toolboxes, inherited from my father who probably inherited it from his father. I can't remember when it was last used, but it has to have been at least 30 or 40 years ago. It's kind of beat up, but I keep it just to have it around for the "cool old tool" factor. Back to the original question: The early XJs and MJs (up through 1990, at least) have the front bump stops threaded in. The rubber bumper fits in a metal cup. The metal cup has a threaded stud on the upper side. If you droop the suspension, you can fit a small pipe wrench or large pair of ChannelLocks between the coils and unscrew the stop.

Congratulations!

You're looking for 3/16" While you're there, you should also buy a double flaring tool and some extra end fittings, along with a few couplers for joining lengths of hard line together. Once brake lines start popping, they are all suspect. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced a section of line, only to have a nearby section pop a leak when I try to bleed after the repair. Just bite the bullet and replace everything, then you won't have to worry about it. The pre-fab lengths won't be perfect to get you from point 'A' to point 'B' and that's why you'll need the flaring tool. Oh, yeah, and a small tubing cutter, too. Don't cut brake line with a hacksaw -- the cut has to be pretty straight and clean or you can't get a good double flare on it.

like eagle said a rear sway bar will give a car more oversteer, which means the tail will come out easier but that isn't always the best thing to do. but if you tow a lot a rear bar could do you some good. I didn't say it would give more oversteer. I said it would give less understeer. Since most American vehicles understeer to the point of being (IMHO) dangerous, anything that results in less understeer is (again IMHO) a good thing.

You can cut the metal band clamps off the stock hoses and replace the hoses on the heater valve. I believe the valve is available from Auto Zone. A long time ago, I think someone posted a cross-reference to a GM valve that's the same thing.

Sheesh. I know that hill. That's not even the "hillclimb" hill -- that's the trail into the playground area. I've done that in a bone stock XJ, as well as my MJ. Somebody had to really work to flip a TJ on that.

XJs (except the Up Country package) all came with rear sway bars. In my autocross days, the first thing any of us running AMC Javelins or AMXs, or Mustangs, or Camaros did was install an Addco rear sway bar. Those were all leaf springs in the rear. They keep the ride more level, and they also reduce understeer. They are VERY beneficial. Most, if not all, American vehicles have horrible understeer. IMHO, ALL American cars need rear sway bars, and those that already have them (like the XJ) probably need a much larger one. However, they interfere with articulation off-road.

I believe on the Cherokee they are 14mm. The MJ is probably the same. I was in a bind once and I was able to get 9/16" bolts through the bushings on an XJ, but they were tight. The originals were metric.

I posted this two years ago in May. Didn't have any idea it was that long ago:

Bushwhackers are aftermarket. He's asking about factory flares. This has come up before. I measured, and I posted photos of a 2-door Cherokee flare next to a Comanche flare. They are NOT the same. The Comanche flare is larger in both length and height.

Switch the springs side-for-side and see how it sits.

You have a choice here, between two competing philosophies: (1) If it ain't broke, don't fix it. (2) If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is. Take your pick. In my experience, #1 is less expensive and less painful.

I hate to say it, but, 4.56's are total overkill for 32" tires. They'd be great for offroading, but, would suck for highway driving. 4.10's are about perfect for 33's in my honest opinion. And I don't think he would overly disappointed with 3.55's and 32's. I beg to differ. With 32" tires and 4.56 gears, the RPMs at 70 MPH would be 2640 RPM. That's right at the sweet spot of the torque curve for the 4.0L engine, which is also the engine speed that provides the best economy. In the "good old days," AMC geared the predecessors of this engine to run 2500 RPM at 60 MPH. I had a Rambler American set up like that (no overdrive, 3.08 gears) that delivered an honest 28 MPG on the highway. It's not overkill at all. It's setting the engine up to run in the usable part of the RPM range. With 3.55s, at 70 MPH he'll only be turning 2050 RPM, and at 55 MPH he'll be at 1610 RPM. That's so low he won't be able to use 5th gear except downhill with a tailwind.

I guess I misread the intent of this post. I saw "the gauge has 2 wires" and posted an answer to that. Didn't realize you meant the sender had two wires. Sorry.

they have that? Since the International MJ Preservation Society exists only in my mind, and I am the self-appointed President for Life -- they have it now, because I just made it up.

There are two grades of replacement windshield: Domestic, and "offshore." My contacts at the glass shop said the domestic glass is much higher quality, with less distortion. The "offshore" glass (from either Mexico or--where else--China) is cheaper but may be wavier. I've gone with the offshore to save money and I haven't noticed any horrible distortion. I have noticed that good glass places will tell you up-front, and ask which you want. The less scrupulous places charge the price for the domestic glass and give you the offshore glass.

Sounds like a candidate for honorary membership in the International MJ Preservation Society, for sure.

The gauge has NO wires. The cluster with the gauges has a printed circuit board. ALL wiring is already set up for the gauges. Just replace the oil pressure sender and the water temperature sender and the cluster is otherwise plug-and-play.

My bad. Sorry.

I use a small company that has an "arrangement" with a residential/commercial (but not auto) glass company. The folks who own the res/com business are AMC collectors, so they are friends. When I need a windshield, I call them and they call the guy who shows up in my driveway, does the window, and goes away. The last one I had done was about 4 or 5 years ago, I'd guess, and it cost me $135. I'm sure it's over $150 by now.