Eagle

You mean on the plunger that activates the brake failure warning? Yes, there should be two o-rings on it. One on each end, IIRC. Wildman, I looked at the link you provided, and I don't understand what he's going. He removed the internal o-ring, that I understand. But when he reassembled, he installed the spring. Everyone I know of who has done that mod (remember, kids, that applies ONLY to the XJ combination valve, NOT the MJ) removed the spring and pushed the plunger as far into the nut as possible. If the object is to allow full brake flow, in reality I don't see any reason to even have the plunger in there. I'm seriously considering removing the guts from mine and just mounting a bolt with an o-ring to close of the forward end.

This is in NO way meant to ignore or diminish those who are now in the military or those who are veterans, but ... Please remember that Memorial Day is the day to honor those who DIED in service to their country. It is not for anyone else. We have Veterans' Day for those of us like me, who were fortunate enough to make it home. It's really sad that so many Americans today don't even know what Memorial Day means. Here's a bit of background, for those interested -- and then a link to the site from which the info was borrowed: http://www.usmemorialday.org/backgrnd.html Memorial Day -- It ain't about hot dogs and hamburgers.

Oh, well. I much prefer the "Before" look ...

You can click the "Img" button or add the image code manually. It goes in the format The photos have to be hosted on an external server. You are posting a link to a photo on another site, you are not uploading pictures to the forum and you can't link to pics on your own hard drive (unless you are a server directly on the Internet).

The problem is that many people today don't know how to drive a standard. They think it's smart to hold the vehicle on a hill by slipping the clutch, for example. This is what wears out clutches and creates hot spots in the flywheel. When I was in college, I had a fraternity brother who had a Chevy Impala 327 4-speed. He moaned and groaned loud and long because he had gone through three clutches in 13,000 miles and the dealer wouldn't replace the clutch under warranty. He told the whole world that Chevy made lousy cars with lousy clutches. So one night several of us went out for pizza. The house driveway was long, and sloped uphill. He had to back out. To do so, he revved it up to about 3,000 RPM and slipped the clutch all the way up the driveway. He also used the clutch to hold the car on hills at stoplights. Small wonder he went through clutches like most people go through Kleenex. I replaced the clutch in the '88 XJ at 204,000 miles. The clutch looked brand new, but the slave cylinder had gone and it didn't make sense with everything apart NOT to replace the clutch. No hotspots on the flywheel, so I didn't replace it, and I have no chatter. But I learned to drive a standard from my grandfather, who never owned an automatic until he was in his 70s. He drummed into our heads that a clutch should either be disengaged, or completely engaged. If you slip it, you kill it. My '88 MJ, on the other hand, cannot be driven without chattering. It's the ONLY vehicle I've ever driven that I cannot start off in 1st gear smoothly, and it irritates me no end.

A clutch disk is probably $12 to $15 ... but it's not likely the problem. The problem is much more likely to be a hot-spotted flywheel.

A 92 or 93 will have the Chrysler ignition/injection system. That takes a different CPS, so the flex plate on that motor won't work in your Renix vehicle. But -- putting a new flex plate on while the engine is out of the vehicle is perhaps good insurance anyway.

unfortunately it's not that easy. you need to drill the MJ bench pedistals off of the ONE seat track each side has. you need two seat tracks so start with xj brackets. remove pedistals from both switch pedistals install. this includes drilling several rivets and spot welds, and either welding the pedistals on, bolting them on, or both (my choice) watch out though. if you like your seats at the current height, but just want buckets, you need to use 2 door xj bucket seats, with NON-SWIVEL pedistals. if you use the swivel pedistals, you will gain 3" in seat height and some people would be into the roof then (I'm 6' tall and i like the extra height) Yeppers -- all true. Good point. It was awhile ago I was playing with that and many of the details are a bit ... fuzzy.

Like ... WOW!

First choice - NGK (the ordinary ones, NOT the platinum tip) Second choice - Champion truck plugs

Do you care about color? I have one in pretty decent condition. It's been in the basement for awhile, if memory serves (which it may not) I believe it's all vinyl and either red or brown in color.

New? As in, "new"? The MJ has been out of production for 16 years -- the possibility of any new MJ D44s existing is so small I don't think mathematics has developed a name for the number of zeroes after the decimal point before you get to the significant digit. Theoretically possible on a side pull, but highly unlikely if the winch is installed correctly.

And since the FSM specifically says not to resurface the flywheel, that's not really an option, either. That causes incomplete disengagement, which in turn may result in ... hot spots. Or a broken tranny -- take your pick.

You need the MJ pedestals for ANY seat you want to put in an MJ -- unless you want to build seat bases. The nice thing is that if you unbolt the pedestals from the bench seat, you can use them for the buckets. The only thing you lose is the ability to (easily) adjust the passenger side seat forward and back, because with the bench there's no lever on the right side pedestal. If you have some 1/4" or 5/16" round rod and a welder, that can be overcome rather easily.

I think an MJ would look good in that Solar Yellow (or whatever they called it) color that Jeep used on a special model of the XJ in 2000.

Don't lower it by cutting any stock parts if you're going to convert to 4WD down the road. If you go 4WD you will have to UN-lower it. Otherwise the oil pan will be banging on the front differential. You can't lower a 4WD MJ by more than about an inch without having problems.

he said that it comes with fluid too.. is that so?? Yes, that's correct. It's because they're such a nuisance to bleed, this saves the shop techs a lot of wasted time. Just be VERY careful to route the line as far away from the exhaust manifold as you possibly can, because it's plastic and it can (and does) melt. The results are not pretty.

'87 and '89 are both Renix years, so you're looking at a straight swap. No adapters needed. The AX-15 will bolt right up to either engine with no problems. The wiring harness under the hood does the same thing, but unless your '89 is a very early production vehicle (made in late 1988), it will NOT have the C101 connector high on the firewall, in front of the driver. The '87 will have the C101 connector. But if you're just swapping engines, there would be no reason for you to change the wiring -- just label everything when you disconnect it, and then put everything back where it came from. The serpentine belt routing for the a/c versus non-a/c I think stays the same. IIRC there's an idler pulley on the non-a/c engine that sits where the compressor would sit.

It should shift when you control it manually. There's no 2nd gear when you do it that way, but you should be able to get 3rd and 4th. Pull that fuse and try it manually. The FSM diagnostic tree says to remove the fuse when you shift manually. That deactivates the TCU.

Will it shift manually if you use the shift lever to select OD, 3, or 1-2? Did you check the fluid level? Did you check the fuse for the TCU?

Be sure you have the composite rotors. '90 should be the first year, so you'd want the hubs that fit '90 thru mid-'99 -- but if yours is an early production '90 with cast rotors, you'll need the old style hubs.

F150 coils are too stiff even when used at full length. Cutting coil springs makes them stiffer -- not a good route. Find a set of 4-cylinder XJ springs and cut them, perhaps, or use TJ (Wrangler) springs -- I know TJ lift springs don't provide as much lift in an XJ as they do in a TJ, so a stock TJ spring should lower an XJ or MJ about two inches (I think). Simplest way in back is blocks. But be careful with aluminum blocks. One of the guys in NAXJA had used them for a budget lift in his XJ. We were out at Paragon for NACFest, and his blocks literally disintegrated. The ones you can buy these days are mostly aluminum, which doesn't get along well with road salt in the winter. The salt/snow mix just turned them into powder. A better way, I think, would be to get a set of XJ rear springs and substitute the XJ leaves for all except the main leaf in the MJ. XJ springs are designed to sit flat rather than arched. Disclaimer: I have not done this one. I am certain it will produce some reduction in ride height, but I have no idea how much.

Why not ask the young lady what she would like?

If it came out of a 4.0L it is not an AX-5. If it is an AX-5, it will not bolt up to a 4.0L, and if you could make it do so you'd likely explode it within a week. The AX-5 was used with the 2.5L and 2.8L engines. http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/

Hey, Pete -- THOSE are the 15x6 steel rims.