Eagle

Sure they do. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 3&D=303153 But unless I'm reading it wrong, that's only for the I4 and the V6, not the 4.0L. :dunno: CTO-4029 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku You're right, it says it fits the 4-banger. However, it's the one with the 2-1/2" inlet, 2-1/4" outlet, and flanged inlet. And 4029 strikes a chord as being the number I've been buying. I thought I still had a box in the basement, but I just looked and it's not there so I'll have to trust the memory. Here we go -- there's another screen showing all applications for that number: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... pplication

Sure they do. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 3&D=303153

Is this for a 4.0L or a 2.5L? The 4.0L euns best with a stock 2-1/4" tailpipe. The exhaust pipe is 2-1/2" into the cat, the cat is 2-1/2" and then the connector necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler. I have been very happy with Catco brand direct-fit converters from Summit racing. Since I bought my last one Summit has added another brand that's a couple of bucks cheaper, but I'd still go with a catco just because I know they work. For everything else, I buy from Auto Zone. Their mufflers have a lifetime warranty, and their pipes are as good as anything other than a custom-bent, stainless steel mega-dollar system.

I switched to the new style in the '88 XJ and the '88 MJ and I haven't regretted it for a nanosecond. It's a tremendous improvement.

Yep -- that one.

Convert to the new (2000 XJ) style knob. It's one piece, the locknut is concealed inside and covered by the shift pattern trim. It'll be the last replacement knob you have to buy. The early style were notorious for self-destructing, and I've tried just about everyhting I could think of to repair them with no luck.

See jaekl's post. The springs that release the parking brake are the springs inside the drums.

YJ

The windshield trim is stainless (or maybe aluminum), not chrome. Best way to eliminate it is to remove it and have a glass shop re-set the windshield using a late-model Cherokee surround gasket. The easiest way is to clean it well and paint it with wrought iron matte black paint. Mirrors are already black, unless you have the optional towning mirrors on the door. If so, just remove them and install the standard type. It's completely possible to run 31" tires with no lift. Your tire size does not indicate that you have a lift. You have to measure.

Personally, I think any lift messes with street driveability. However, it's pretty certain that anything more than a 2" budget boost starts causing alignment and other issues.

IMHO, yes.

You forgot to mention that a lift -- 2", 3", 4" or whatever, doesn't do anything to eliminate the front tires rubbing on the lower control arms. The only thing that addresses that is wheels with less backspacing (which brings other problems), or WJ Grand Cherokee LCAs with the bend in them.

In the front, stock measurement from center of hub to bottom edge of flare should be 17-1/2". In the rear, it should be about 21" to 21-1/2" (or maybe an inch less if it's a 2WD).

You mean '86 thru '89. I'm sure someone will take issue with me, but I'd say "Yes." However, keep in mind that there were two versions of the 10" brakes. The standard rear brakes were 10" x 1-3/4". These were found on most XJs and MJs with the Dana 35 rear axle. These shoes and drums are narrower that the 9" x 2-1/2" Chrysler brakes, but putting the shoes farther out increases their stopping capability. I rate these about equal to the 9" Mopar brakes. The vehicles with the AMC 20 and Dana 44 rear axles, and reportedly a few with the Dana 35, got rear brakes with 10" x 2-1/2" drums. The braking with this setup is far superior to the dinky Chrysler brakes. And whether you're doing the narrow 10" brakes or the wide ones -- they are easier to work on than the Chysler brakes.

You don't calculate it -- you measure it. Ideally, with the spring off the vehicle, but since that's not practical, jack the chassis up to unload the springs ... but not so far that you're picking up the wheels and axles. Stretch a string between the forward and rear bushings, and measure from the string to the top of the main leaf where it's bolted to the axle.

Have you pulled a spark plug after cranking it, to see if it looks wet or if you can smell gas? Just because the fuel pump is generating pressure doesn't prove the fuel is getting from the rail into the cylinders. When in doubt, try old fashioned stuff. Like -- dump some raw gas down the throttle body and try to start it. It should fire. It won't run for more than a couple of seconds, of course, but it will let you know if it's at least capable of firing the fuel. How many miles are on it? There's another thread running about a 2.5L and a timing chain. Don't forget, the 2.5L uses a timing chain tensioner. If that gets worn out, it can jump timing. That can get very difficult ti diagnose.

Well, we knew that from your avatar photo. Which is you, the big, fat slob, or the sawed-off little dork? :cheers:

I agree to a point. But I am not a happy camper when somebody says, "I know this has been covered a thousand times but I don't want to search, so ...?" And then ten of US use the search to answer the question because someone was too lazy to use the search him/herself. As the Buddha taught, it's all about finding the balance ...

Ideally, you remove one line and cap the outlet at the front metering block. It has been written up several times.

All the 9" drums are the same. They are 9" x 2-1/2". Chrysler started that in (I think) 1990. The AMC rear drums were mostly 10" x 1-3/4", except for the heavy duty axles with 10" x 2-1/2" drums.

No, they are not universal. That doesn't mean that an AAL for a specific application won't work in another vehicle, it just might be less than optimal. How wide are the Rodeo springs? You might be able to use scrap XJ or MJ (or Dakota or S-10) leaves. Are the Rodeo prings SOA or SUA?

POR-15 is expensive, first -- and it requires a top coat. The Line-X stuff (or whatever DupliColor calls theirs) is a one-shot application. Stir it up, paint it on, and you're done.

Yeah, I'm just an endearing kind of guy. It sort of goes along with the olde pharte schtick. Charter member of Curmudgeons-R-Us, ya know ... Decent highway mileage with larger tires isn't impossible. "Great" is unlikely, but decent is possible. When my '88 was lifted I ran it on 31x10.50s with 3.73 gears. The gear choice was actually an accident -- I had bought the gears for the '88 XJ with the intention of running them with 30x9.50s, then I bought the MJ so I threw the gears in that. My brother handed down a half-used set of 31s, so that took care of the tire size selection. The end result was that the final drive was exactly the same as stock tires and 3.54 gears. I ran those tires on steel rims, so they were a bunch heavier than stock tires on alloy rims. The XJ typically gets 21 - 23 MPG highway. (Best ever was 28, but that was a LONG time ago, when it was new.) The MJ with the 31s typically got 19 -21 MPG highway -- with the tailgate up, and that alone could account for one or two miles per gallon difference. 33" tires and 4.10 or 4.56 gearing wouldn't be that far off stock gearing as to overall final drive ratio. I don't think the weight of the tire makes a huge difference in highway cruising. The additional mass takes more to get rolling, but once it's rolling it has momentum. It doesn't take a lot of power to keep it rolling at 65 MPH. Don't diss the 20-year old technology. The Renix system has a knock sensor, so it optimizes spark advance. The HO system does not have a knock sensor, so the only way it avoids ping is to never allow optimum spark advance. That hurts mileage. I've never heard of an HO Cherokee getting as good fuel mileage as the Renix models routinely turn in. My '88 still gets better mileage, with 270,000 miles on it, than my wife's 2000 XJ gets with only 60,000 on the clock.

If you have (or have access to) a MIG welder, by all means weld in new metal. But be careful -- be sure to protect everything with weldinf blankets, betcause weld spatter will make a real mess out of vinyl and plastic interior (and dashboard) parts. If those are the only holes and the rest of the floor seems solid enough to support your feet, I would skip the welding. I would not use duct tape, though. I would use the stainless steel body repair tape. It comes in 2" or 3" wide rolls and the steel is strong enough that it will actually provide some stiffness to the floor. You'll need to grind off all the rust (which may make the holes larger) so there's clean metal for the tape to bond to. I would then follow up with a few pop rivets or small sheet metal screws to anchor the ends of the patch in place. I would not use POR-15 -- I'd use RhinoLiner (or the DupliColor equivalent). It's tough, it's tenaciously adhesive, it's waterproof -- and it doesn't require any top coat.

Chico, the first question is -- are your mileage figures accurate? The difference between stock tires and 31s is approximately 11% to 12% (depending on which "stock" size you use for the base). If you mentioned that you corrected your speedometer gear, I missed it. Of course, if you add 10% to 14, you're way up there to around 15.4 -- whoopee. However, for a vehicle driven short distances at lower speeds, that's right in the ball park.