Eagle

Isn't it a form of blasphemy to use Honda parts on a Jeep?

Ayup. Starting the engine and getting the truck rolling. I understand that clutch use is optional after that, and can be worked around even to get started if you like replacing starter motors and synchronizers. Ya gotta remember -- synchromesh trannies were still sort of a new thing when I learned to drive. In fact, one of my first cars (1939 Hudson coupe) didn't have synchro on any gear. That sorta made the clutch less optional.

Weight isn't a problem as long as your winch is healthy. I had my 31 on a factory steel rim and it stayed up just fine. But I've seen some of those assemblies where the "tee" part that fits through the center hole of the wheel was virtually a memory. Being in California, you may not need to worry about that. Just using an alloy rim will save a few pounds. And the idea of a narrower tire is also a good one. You may be able to find a passenger car tire in an 85-profile that's pretty close in diameter. Otherwise, just inspect your winch and carry the 31.

Keep in mind that they don't come in "pairs." Each flare requires three retainers -- all different part numbers.

Power shifting in a vehicle with a long throw, truck transmission is very much not recommended. Unless, of course, you enjoy rebuilding or replacing transmissions.

Gotta be specific. The earliest XJ Wagoneers had conventional headlights, same as the XJ Cherokee, and that Waggy grille does fit right into a Comanche.

Auto Zone used to sell noid lights. One of them (a GM, IIRC) fits the early Jeep injectors, so it should fit the HO as well.

I carried a 31. Be sure to inspect the condition of the winch cable and the hanger. A 31x10.50, especially on a steel rim, is heavy.

I'm strictly low-tech. My first CB was a Radio Shack compact model and I ran it in the XJ using a Radio Shack gutter-mount, fold-down antenna (steel). I had that in the Jeep on a cross-country trip, and in open, flat terrain in the mid-west I was getting out 10+ miles and receiving from close to 20 miles. It worked well on trails because if I saw a low branch ahead I could just reach out the window, flop the stick down parallel to the gutter, and motor on through. Naturally, Radio Shack discontinued that antenna. The one I ran on the MJ was a short, steel magnetic mount I picked up at a truck stop from the CB wall rack. Sorry, I don't recall the brand. It works well, but it is prone to being knocked off the roof by low branches. There is no single answer. Much of the decision has to take into account the terrain you expect to see. You can run a long, upright whip all week at Moab and never have a problem. Take the same thing into the woods in New England and you're thrashing tree branches every few feet.

Looks good. Can't wait to see the finished pics. That's a 2000 XJ nose? Are you running the new front fenders, too, or did you take the cheater's route and grind down the upper/outer corners of the header to fair it into the original fenders? What kind of paint?

1988 is also considered to be the last year of the AMC Jeeps. The AMC Owners Group recognizes through 1988 for Jeep vehicles to exhibit in their shows and competitions.

It'll put you back close to "stock." I ran 31s with 3.73 gears. In terms of RPM-to-MPH, the final drive ratio in 5th gear was exactly the same as my wife's stock XJ with auto and 3.55 gears on stock tires. You'll see an improvement over 3.07s, but 3.73s or even 4.10s would be a far better choice IMHO.

Well, word on the street around here is that the crooks are in too much of a hurry to mess with locking gas caps. They just take a screwdriver or an ice pick, punch holes in your tank, and catch the juice as it runs out. Better get that camera set up.

Here's my dream car: Except the two I had were both British Racing Green, and that's what I would want if possible. But ... beggars can't be choosers. But it's gotta be a 390 4-speed.

Wal-Mart sells those automatic cameras for taking pictures of game animals. I saw them in the sporting goods department last week. It wouldn't be hard to set one up to stand watch over your vehicle. I think they are motion activated (infra red?).

Sure they do. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 3&D=303153 But unless I'm reading it wrong, that's only for the I4 and the V6, not the 4.0L. :dunno: CTO-4029 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku You're right, it says it fits the 4-banger. However, it's the one with the 2-1/2" inlet, 2-1/4" outlet, and flanged inlet. And 4029 strikes a chord as being the number I've been buying. I thought I still had a box in the basement, but I just looked and it's not there so I'll have to trust the memory. Here we go -- there's another screen showing all applications for that number: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... pplication

Sure they do. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 3&D=303153

Is this for a 4.0L or a 2.5L? The 4.0L euns best with a stock 2-1/4" tailpipe. The exhaust pipe is 2-1/2" into the cat, the cat is 2-1/2" and then the connector necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler. I have been very happy with Catco brand direct-fit converters from Summit racing. Since I bought my last one Summit has added another brand that's a couple of bucks cheaper, but I'd still go with a catco just because I know they work. For everything else, I buy from Auto Zone. Their mufflers have a lifetime warranty, and their pipes are as good as anything other than a custom-bent, stainless steel mega-dollar system.

I switched to the new style in the '88 XJ and the '88 MJ and I haven't regretted it for a nanosecond. It's a tremendous improvement.

Yep -- that one.

Convert to the new (2000 XJ) style knob. It's one piece, the locknut is concealed inside and covered by the shift pattern trim. It'll be the last replacement knob you have to buy. The early style were notorious for self-destructing, and I've tried just about everyhting I could think of to repair them with no luck.

See jaekl's post. The springs that release the parking brake are the springs inside the drums.

YJ

The windshield trim is stainless (or maybe aluminum), not chrome. Best way to eliminate it is to remove it and have a glass shop re-set the windshield using a late-model Cherokee surround gasket. The easiest way is to clean it well and paint it with wrought iron matte black paint. Mirrors are already black, unless you have the optional towning mirrors on the door. If so, just remove them and install the standard type. It's completely possible to run 31" tires with no lift. Your tire size does not indicate that you have a lift. You have to measure.

Personally, I think any lift messes with street driveability. However, it's pretty certain that anything more than a 2" budget boost starts causing alignment and other issues.