Eagle

Sheesh. I know that hill. That's not even the "hillclimb" hill -- that's the trail into the playground area. I've done that in a bone stock XJ, as well as my MJ. Somebody had to really work to flip a TJ on that.

XJs (except the Up Country package) all came with rear sway bars. In my autocross days, the first thing any of us running AMC Javelins or AMXs, or Mustangs, or Camaros did was install an Addco rear sway bar. Those were all leaf springs in the rear. They keep the ride more level, and they also reduce understeer. They are VERY beneficial. Most, if not all, American vehicles have horrible understeer. IMHO, ALL American cars need rear sway bars, and those that already have them (like the XJ) probably need a much larger one. However, they interfere with articulation off-road.

I believe on the Cherokee they are 14mm. The MJ is probably the same. I was in a bind once and I was able to get 9/16" bolts through the bushings on an XJ, but they were tight. The originals were metric.

I posted this two years ago in May. Didn't have any idea it was that long ago:

Bushwhackers are aftermarket. He's asking about factory flares. This has come up before. I measured, and I posted photos of a 2-door Cherokee flare next to a Comanche flare. They are NOT the same. The Comanche flare is larger in both length and height.

Switch the springs side-for-side and see how it sits.

You have a choice here, between two competing philosophies: (1) If it ain't broke, don't fix it. (2) If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is. Take your pick. In my experience, #1 is less expensive and less painful.

I hate to say it, but, 4.56's are total overkill for 32" tires. They'd be great for offroading, but, would suck for highway driving. 4.10's are about perfect for 33's in my honest opinion. And I don't think he would overly disappointed with 3.55's and 32's. I beg to differ. With 32" tires and 4.56 gears, the RPMs at 70 MPH would be 2640 RPM. That's right at the sweet spot of the torque curve for the 4.0L engine, which is also the engine speed that provides the best economy. In the "good old days," AMC geared the predecessors of this engine to run 2500 RPM at 60 MPH. I had a Rambler American set up like that (no overdrive, 3.08 gears) that delivered an honest 28 MPG on the highway. It's not overkill at all. It's setting the engine up to run in the usable part of the RPM range. With 3.55s, at 70 MPH he'll only be turning 2050 RPM, and at 55 MPH he'll be at 1610 RPM. That's so low he won't be able to use 5th gear except downhill with a tailwind.

I guess I misread the intent of this post. I saw "the gauge has 2 wires" and posted an answer to that. Didn't realize you meant the sender had two wires. Sorry.

they have that? Since the International MJ Preservation Society exists only in my mind, and I am the self-appointed President for Life -- they have it now, because I just made it up.

There are two grades of replacement windshield: Domestic, and "offshore." My contacts at the glass shop said the domestic glass is much higher quality, with less distortion. The "offshore" glass (from either Mexico or--where else--China) is cheaper but may be wavier. I've gone with the offshore to save money and I haven't noticed any horrible distortion. I have noticed that good glass places will tell you up-front, and ask which you want. The less scrupulous places charge the price for the domestic glass and give you the offshore glass.

Sounds like a candidate for honorary membership in the International MJ Preservation Society, for sure.

The gauge has NO wires. The cluster with the gauges has a printed circuit board. ALL wiring is already set up for the gauges. Just replace the oil pressure sender and the water temperature sender and the cluster is otherwise plug-and-play.

My bad. Sorry.

I use a small company that has an "arrangement" with a residential/commercial (but not auto) glass company. The folks who own the res/com business are AMC collectors, so they are friends. When I need a windshield, I call them and they call the guy who shows up in my driveway, does the window, and goes away. The last one I had done was about 4 or 5 years ago, I'd guess, and it cost me $135. I'm sure it's over $150 by now.

I would leave them off. If you decide to put them on, please note that your PhotoChop has the stripe on backwards. The hockey stick blade goes to the back, not on the door.

Don't take it personally. Heck I have three of the durned things. That gives me the right to call 'em ugly in'n I want :redX:

The flares have the part number molded into them, along with an 'R' or an 'L'. They are definitely side-specific.

Yeah, that's the generic Fey step bumper. It's functional, but ugly.

Before you do anything: (1) Are you aware that the MJ has a significant amount of caster angle, and when the front wheels are turned they are SUPPOSED to slant? (2) You didn't say what size tires and wheels you are running. Some combinations rub the lower control arms even with good ball joints.

I haven't tried it, but I have also been thinking a Ranger bumper would look about right.

Mothballs. Lots and lots of mothballs.

:drool: Now, now -- be nice. Remember, Hudson owned NASCAR in the early 50s. They won just about every race they entered.

No, they don't. All Cherokee rear flares are the same, 2-door and 4-door. They are about 3" shorter lengthwise and 2" or so shorter heightwise than Comanche rear flares. I posted a photo of a 2-door Cherokee flare and a Comanche flare back a year or so ago. You can probably find it if you search. Bottom line -- the Comanche rear flares are unique. The ONLY way to use Cherokee rear flares is to weld in a piece of Cherokee rear quarter panel to reduce the size of the wheel arch opening.

I thought the old timers just turned up the wick on the kerosene lamp. ;) That's for headlamps. (There's a reason the technical name is head"lamp"s)