Eagle

Why not just use an MJ seat? There's no shortage of MJs with bench seats -- everyone's looking to dump the bench and install buckets.

If the floor pan ("frame") is straight, it can be fixed. The roof is actually easy to remove and replace -- it's apparently held on mostly with construction adhesive. So your best approach might be to get a "new" roof from a junkyard, take off the bent roof, set the new roof in place and then straighten the B pillar to where the roof fits correctly. Then button everything up. One of my friends in NAXJA rolled his XJ and squashed the A pillars. I got him a new roof and that's basically how he approached it.

I'd say she jumped a curb and came down HARD on the right side frame "rail," bending the chassis on that side. Take a good look underneath and see if the frame runner is straight in the vicinity of the B pillar. I think the entire unibody is sprung. Can it be fixed? Sure. But probably not by you in your garage at home.

Check again. I absolutely guarantee you that the same hub/bearing unit does NOT fit all years. I have samples of both types out in the scrap pile. I have compared them, and they dimensions are visibly different.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... permission 4th post in the thread

Keystone? Eric Veng?

Camera batteries were dead, so the pics will have to wait for Friday. Sorry. You don't NEED a catch bottle, but if you don't have one you'll squirt coolant all over the engine compartment, plus you'll constantly lose coolant. The Moroso filler neck comes drilled and tapped for a barbed fitting that accepts a small (3/16" ID? I think). Use that with a radiator cap that allows coolant to flow back, and you can fill the tank to the top, have no air in the system, and have the equivalent of a '91+ "open" system -- with more capacity. If you don't use the overflow bottle, either you just run a hose down and let any overflow spray onto the ground, or you close off the opening with a plug. In that case you can only fill the tank to about half full (like the plastic tank you're replacing), because the coolant needs space to expand.

'86? Was that late enough to be built after they had corrected the Fiero's propensity to live up to its name, and self-immolate?

Over-the-road big trucks have used that method of balancing for years. I havn't tried it, but others who have tried it report that it works very well ... especially on larger, wider tires that are almost impossible to get correctly balanced using conventional (or stick-on) weights. Plus -- because the pellets are rolling and bouncing around in there, even if the tire shifts on the rim, cups, or flat spots, it will always be in balance. I've never heard of a tire shop doing that without asking/telling the customer, though.

Bracket? We don't need no steenkin' bracket. I used a short length of 1.5" x 1.5" steel utility angle, from Home Depot or Lowe's. The kind that has alternating slots and holes punched in both legs. I drilled two holes in the lip where the upper edge of the firewall is joined to the cowel panel under the hood and bolted the horizontal leg of the angle there. The vertical leg sticks up, and I found holes/slots that fit the holes in the Moroso tank with no modifications. I'll try to grab a picture this afternoon. Looks like that dude used the exact same overflow catch bottle I did. It came from Advance Auto, IIRC. I have mine in the same place. There are two sizes -- the small one fits where he shows it, the large one does not.

I dunno about you guys. Back in the pony car days, any time I bought a used Javelin or AMX about the first thing I did was to remove the power steering and put in a quick ratio manual box. The second thing I usually did was to upgrade the front brakes to 1973 Matador discs and chuck the power booster. My first wife was 5'-4" tall and weighed 125 pounds. SHE drove a 390 AMX with QRM steering. You healthy lads should be able to handle it.

Having just seen a question about fast idle, two days ago Old Faithful started acting up. The throttle would stick, and if I took my foot of the gas and disengaged the clutch, the idle would be around 1200 RPM. Then if I tapped the pedal sharply, the idle would drop to normal. That lasted about a day. Then the idle went to 2500 RPM and tapping the throttle didn't bring it back down. So after work this evening I attacked the throttle bellcrank lever with PB Blaster. To no avail. No improvement, and things felt VERY sticky. Tried to remove the air horn to check the throttle body. Naturally, one of the three screws won't come out. So I went back to trying to lube the linkage. Extended the cable as far as possible and sprayed with white litium grease. No improvement. Finally I popped the little plastic ball socket off the throttle body end of that part of the linkage. That confirmed that the throttle body was free, the drag was between there and the pedal. Kept moving the rod up and down, hoping all that PB Blaster would soak in. Accidently popped the lower socket off the ball on the lower bellcrank arm. Okay, tried moving it by hand, without the rod. HEY! It moved freely! So I sprayed a bit of white lithium grease into each of the plastic cups on the ends of the linkage arm, snapped the arm back in place -- and it's working perfectly. I guess after 20 years, plastic loses any self-lubricating properties it might once have had.

Ummm, yeah. It likely means that your distributor is worn out, the shaft is wobbling around, and it's not properly keeping time. Sounds like you most likely need a new (or rebuilt) distributor.

"These tires are ticking time bombs on people's cars." Yeah, right. Keep in mind, that statement was made by a guy who earns his living from telling people that new tires aren't "new." Gotta tell you, I'm pretty far into my second million miles of driving and I have never EVER heard of a new (meaning "not a retread," not "less than 6 years old) tire having a tread separation. Y'all do as you wish. The tires on Old faithful were used when I got them, I've had them more than 6 years, and I'm not concerned that they'll lose the tread. The bigger problem is sidewall cracking from UV and ozi=one exposure. That's more of a problem with tires that don't get a lot of miles, because the rubber tends to lose elasticity faster. Tires with crazed sidewalls are dangerous. The other problem is running tires underinflated. Ask Ford and Firestone about that ...

No, it should not be a choice. Sorry. If all they could possibly do is run into a tree and remove themselves from the gene pool, THEN it should be a choice. As long as they're on the same road as me, my wife and my granddaughter, it should NOT be a choice. Not when they have the capacity to kill other people through their inattention to the task of driving. A couple of years ago an illegal immigrant gal ran a stop light and totaled my friend's plow Jeep. You guessed it -- she was so busy yakking on the cell she didn't even look at the light. Even after the crash, she didn't stop yakking -- just hopped out and started bawling to her friend that "someone just ran into me." (He was stopped.) :nuts: I almost got t-boned at an intersection a few weeks ago. Light turned green for me. I drive a 5-speed, so it took a moment to shift into gear, THEN I started to roll. And a babe coming the other way had to lock up all 4 wheels to stop about an inch short of my driver's door. Yeah, she was on the phone. And SHE glared at ME like it was my fault she had to stop. :nuts: :nuts: The problem is, it's a damned telephone. The mind doesn't make the connection that THIS telephone is in a guided missile, not your kitchen or bedroom. The mind switches off driving and gets involved in the phone conversation. This has been proven through too many studies to ignore. What I find interesting is that the same phenomenon doesn't seem to hold true for CB radio. Why? Because people with CBs in their rigs know they're talking on a radio in a damned truck, and they keep their mind on the driving. Can't tell you how many times I've lost parts of a conversation on the CB because my mind was paying attention to what the traffic was doing. That just doesn't happen with cell phones.

???? Pulling the wipers away from the windshield has no effect on those tabs.

There was an article in today's newspaper about texting while driving becoming a near epidemic. I had never even considered that. It's bad enough when people yak while driving (aside from it being illegal in this state), but ... TEXTING? Gimme a break, people! Just drive the damned car.

Do as you must, but I believe you will come to regret the decision. You would be much better off with less lift and quality parts than trying to get a mega-lift by cheaping out across the board. My '88 MJ had a 4" Trailmaster lift in it when I bought it. Back when it was installed, the Trailmaster was one of the only lift kits available for the MJ and it as considered a "quality" lift. I HATED it. It rode hard (rear AAL). The height was completely wrong. The axle was off center -- I had to buy an adjustable track bar to correct that. And at 4" of lift with 31" tires I wasn't really getting much of anywhere I couldn't go with my stock XJ on 30s. After a couple or three years of self-punishment, I put it back to stock height and I've been VERY happy with that decision. Are you aware that you can run 31x10.50s on a stock MJ with NO lift? Going up 4-1/2" to "clear" 31s is a waste of time and resources. Go with the budget boost (coil spacers and rear shackles) for about 2" to make the tires look right for the truck and just drive it.

New HEAVY DUTY perches are available through the Mopar Performance Catalog for about $12/pair. If BLHTAZ can't find the part number, I still have a printed copy of the catalog somewhere and I can look it up. They are MUCH better than anything Rusty's will be selling. At 4-1/2" you'll need control arms. Preferably both upper and lower, and adjustable would be better than fixed. You will need an adjustable track bar. You will also need bump stop extenders. And, of course, you're going to need new shocks on all four corners.

It probably will not decrease the start time. It usually makes the difference between starting or ... not. You aren't listening. You can NOT decrease the start time with a Renix. Don't waste time and energy trying to "fix" something that's an inherent part of the system.

10-4 It was exactly that kind of issue that led the factory to issue the TSB about "indexing" the distributor.

"In the Archives" and "Not Currently on display"... more than certainly means NO WAY IN HELL are we going to get any pictures of it... SW2 No, no ... "Not currently on display" means the ordinary mortals who pay their money at the gate and walk in the door don't see it. The deal is to make a formal contact with the museum as a "journalist," representing the world-famous Comanche Club forum (and, of course, by extension the International MJ Preservation Society -- of which they won't have heard, but it sounds impressive as aitch-eee-double hockey sticks) and specifically ask to be allowed to come see that vehicle in the "archives" in order to do a web-based feature story on it. Do some advance work, and you might be able to get JP Magazine to express an interest in running the story, in which case you could then tell the museum that it's a feature for JP Magazine.

Well, I know the kit exists. I can dredge up the part number, but Brent (BLHTAZ) can probably find it faster. The deal is that (supposedly) the original wiring harness was long enough and the wire small enough that as the circuit degraded with age & time, the CPS signal to the ECU got weaker. So the factory came out with a retrofit harness that's basically two wires, direct from the CPS connector under the hood directly through the firewall and straight into the ECU. Mine are all 87s or 88s that have the C101 connector, so this retrofit kit is highly recommended for them (and has been installed in the two I drive regularly). I don't know if the factory recommends it for the mid-89 and newer Renix models that don't have the C101 connector. Brent?

Does anyone here live near the Chrysler museum? If so, I wonder if they would be willing to allow a representative of The Comanche Club to photograph the thing ... for OUR archives, if not for theirs.