Eagle

Either that or something from the clutch or flywheel physically took out the CPS. When you reinstalled the bell housing, can we assume that you put the locating dowels back in so the bell housing is correctly and accurately aligned on the block? The clearance between the CPS and the teeth on the flywheel is only a few thousandths. If the bell housing isn't exactly where it should be, there may be an interference fit there.

Ain't no such critter. It does not exist. Period. It's like one the NAXJA-NAC members used to post. In fact, it might have been in his signature: "We do good work, fast, and cheap. Pick any two." A good lift that's easy on the wallet is a contrdiction in terms. There's a reason why the more expensive kits cost more. Either they are more complete than the cheap kits, or they are made better using better materials ... or both.

I don't understand your comparison at all. I'm a native-born American. I get 23 MPG out of a 21+ year old XJ 4.0L that has 283,500 miles on the original engine. I drive like a little old lady ... which is NOT the way most Americans drive. Having driven in Germany and England, as well as ridden in several other European countries, my overall impression is that the average European drives like a Kamikaze pilot ... which is also the way the average American drives.

The 4.0L is a member of an engine "family" that AMC introduced in 1964 in the Rambler Typhoon.

A few years ago I was corresponding with one of the NAXJA guys from the western (mountain) states about this. Don't remember now if he was from Montana, Wyoming, or Utah. Somewhere around there. He said both he and his son (two different 4-bangers) typically got in the high 20s. That's better than most people report, but low- to mid-20s should be realistic.

The best deal going for spring perches is the Mopar Performance Catalog. They sell a pair of really beefy perches for less than half what any aftermarket sources sells them for. I don't understand your point here, 64: Yes, if you use the stock plates and shock mounts with a lift, you would need to buy longer shocks. But if your plan is to use longer travel shocks anyway, why go to the trouble of fabricating custom shock mounts when all you need to do is buy your new shocks with the correct mounting eyes on both ends? Does not compute. Besides ... the original question didn't say anything about a lift.

For spring mounts, you need to buy a pair of spring perches and have them welded onto the Ford axle tubes, in the same position as on you MJ axle. The MJ shocks mount to the lower spring mount plate. No work is needed on the axle for shock mounts unless you intend to customize something.

40 psi oil pressure at 0 RPM?

As I have posted several times, due to changes in calipers, rotors, knuckles and hub/bearing units, it is important to keep ALL of that stuff from one year. They do NOT mix and match. I'm at work and don't have access to the article I posted my list of interchange years from, but I have reproduced it three or four times. You should be able to pull it up wiuth a search. Bottom line is, the answer to your question is "No."

That is not accurate. Factory Metric Ton springs did not sit 2" to 3" higher than standard springs. They might have sat maybe 1" higher, but a friend of a friend has an '89 MT longbed that he bought new. My friend maintains it for him, I have seen it numerous times, and I don't think it sits any higher than any other MJ I've seen. The Metric Ton package added capacity, not lift. It was not intended as an off-road package, it was an on-road package.

No, my '88 XJ came with bumper guards and there were also two round holes on each side of the bumper. My best guess would be that the second set is for the old style brush guard, too. I don't remember where/how that mounts, but I think they did have tabs that bolted to/through the top of the bumper.

I hear all sorts of things. Most of the things I hear are testimonials to how stupid the person I hear them from really is. If this were true, why don't you feel the u-joints when driving a 242 in the full-time position?

With the cluster out of the vehicle there are ways to test each gauge by itself, and then you can use a multi-meter to test the printed circuit between the connector and the gauge mounting location.

The original factory bumpers had two holes on each side. I have never figured out why. Sorry, I don't remember whether the inner or outer holes were used by the factory.

OEM for the MJ were French Marchals, and they cost over 100 clams ... each. Wal-Mart's Blazers may look similar, but ... they aren't. That's not to say I wouldn't use them, since the Marchals aren't available, but I doubt the light output or pattern will really be up to the Marchal standard. On the other hand, the Marchals were true FOG lights, with a low, wide, flat cut-off, and most Americans don't want that pattern anyway.

I agree with Hornbrod ... who, by the way, knows a thing or three about electrical circuits. As he noted, the normal range of movement for all the small gauges is from approximately 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. Any gauge with the needle outside of that range is seriously broken.

The old fan uses a standard 2-conductor weatherpak connector that you can buy at Auto Zone or Advance Auto.

I think MiNi is correct. I'm pretty certain the new style fan has a different plug.

That's usually what causes a diff to pee the juice out around the pinion. What did you think the problem was?

The gauges can't spin 180 degrees out, because they only have about a 90-degree sweep and I believe there are stop pins at both ends of the range. Please take a deep breath, slow down, and explain exactly what they are (or aren't) doing.

I was thinking the same thing. But I can't see ANY reason to make this conversion. It'll mean buying new hubs, new rotors, new calipers, new pads ... and every time a hub goes bad you're looking at another $125 to replace, compared to ... what, for a standard wheelbearing and grease seal? $20? This swap does not strike me as being a great idea.

They had heavy-duty suspension and they had a fast idle switch or solenoid so the battery would keep charging even if left standing for long periods with the lights on and radios, flashers, etc all running. They also had rubber floor mats rather than carpets. The local VA hospital where I go for medical issues used to run them. They were recently retired and replaced by Exploders.

They had heavy-duty suspension and they had a fast idle switch or solenoid so the battery would keep charging even if left standing for long periods with the lights on and radios, flashers, etc all running. They also had rubber floor mats rather than carpets. The local VA hospital when I go for medical issues used to run them. They were recently retired and replaced by Exploders.

Why would you need to replace a spindle? They have replaceable bearings. Did a bearing get so bad it started to chew up the spindle along the taper?

What makes you think there are advantages? I can't even figure out how you could make this work. The MJ springs are 5 inches longer. You can't make that all up with shackles, and there isn't enough body/chassis behind the XJ shackle mounts to relocate them anywhere near 5 inches farther back.