Eagle

It could be the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) It could be the fuel filter It could be the coil/ignition module How old is your CPS?

IF you can find a Jeep dealer that hasn['t scrapped the old scan tool that could read inputs from the Renix system, you take it to said dealer and pay them an exhorbitant price to hook up the scanner and read the sensor. However, since many "Jeep" dealers today are Chrysler dealers who have been required to add Jeeps to their lineup, they don't have the old tools. Basically, if there's any doubt -- just replace it.

I don't remember which site I used, but I was able to find a set of center caps for my brother-in-law's Chevy PU -- and he's in Chile. He sent me a photo of the wheels on his truck and I was able to match them. Check these out: http://www.centercaps.net/ http://www.ehubcap.com/

While I don't have first-hand experience building a stroker, I do have second-hand experience -- working on a friend's stroker, and then helping troubleshoot the problems after it was in the vehicle. And I used to spend a lot of time on the strokers forum, plus corresponding with guys like Dino. All of which is why, even though I have built two street engines (V8s) and one race engine (V8), I would not undertake to build my own stroker engine. If I were to win the lottery I might spend the money to buy one from Hesco, but I just don't think it's something that the vast majority of us here are really prepared to execute (properly). And I also don't think it's worth the money involved.

I've been aware of the possibility of stroking the 4.0L using the 258 crank for a long, long time - well before anyone was offering commercially-built versions. It's intriguing, but IMHO it is not something the average do-it-yourselfer should even consider attempting. The problem is that the deck heights between the 4.0L and the 258 blocks are slightly different, which means that there's no easy way to get the correct compression and avoid detonation. The best solution seems to be to use 4.0L rods (which are stronger than 258 rods) with custom pistons. But they have to be custom pistons, because the vertical location of the wrist pins is non-standard. Not being wealthy, after years of considering the options, I've decided that if I ever have to rebuild the engine in one of my XJs or MJs, I'll keep it a 4.0L and go with an aftermarket cam grind. Whether or not a stroker makes sense for you depends a lot on how you drive and will use the vehicle. The longer stroke means the engine can make a lot more low-end torque. It'll make more horsepower at the top, too, but that's not where the advantage lies. If you want low-end "grunt" power (torque, in other words), take a good look at a stroker. If you drive mostly on the street and your style of driving is to spend a lot of time in the upper part of the RPM band, IMHO you'll get more bang for the buck by building a stock 4.0L and choosing a more aggressive cam grind for higher RPM.

If it's only the low beams that have gone AWOL, the problem is in the dimmer switch (on the steering column), not in the headlight switch.

I ran my old XJ with 3.07 gears and the 31" tires off my MJ. I hated every second and every mile of it.

Well, yes there is "only" one bracket per door ... but look at it. The one bracket runs the full height of the door and has reinforced mounting plates welded onto it. It's a lot more than just putting a small piece of angle inside the door skin at each mirror mount. The purpose, obviously, is to keep the mirrors rigidly in place. If you mount them just to the door skin, they'll move all over the place as the skin flexes.

The factory used four different heights. Are these longer than the longest factory ones, or longer than the short ones?

When the clutch is engaged you are driving down the road. Do you mean when the clutch is DISengaged?

Gibson. NOTHING sounds as good. http://www.gibsonperformance.com/

Worse when wet out? Check your plug wires. As they get old, internal resistance increases while the insulation may break down. Get the plug wires wet (or even damp, such as condensation on cold wires on a cool, damp evening) and if you pop the hood with the engine running you may see a light shopw you'll never forget.

If it's a 2WD and your daily driver -- don't lift it. Certainly not by anything like 3 inches. Then you'll be looking for bigger tires because it'll look sily with a 3" lift on stock tires. 31" or 33" tires cost a bunch more than 225/75s. You won't like the performance hit with the bigger tires, so then you'll be looking at an axle swap or regearing. And on and on she goes -- "JEEP: Just Empty Every Pocket." Throw a 3/4" spacer on the front springs and the next time you need tires go to 235/75-15s and you'll have a fine daily driver.

:agree: Especially after wheeling an MJ with a 4" lift and 31s. Lower is better -- I don't ever advise going any higher/bigger than you absolutely need.

Are you sure the bumper has a ground?

I believe it's a tapered pipe thread, and metric. Good luck finding anything to match.

So its safe to heat with the transmission on the truck? I wouldn't. The BA 10/5 case is aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point. Keep soaking the plug with Kroil. Then take a small ball pein hammer and tap the face of the plug a few times. Don't hit it too hard -- you aren't trying to smash it out of the case, just tap enough to (maybe) loosen up whatever corrosion has formed. Once you get the plug out, put teflon tape or anti-seize on the threads.

There's possibly a factory connector you can open up and insert a Hoppy harness, but the MJ uses the taillights as combination stop, tail & turn signal lights, just like a simple 4-wire trailer. I just used quick taps to splice into the wires. No logic box adapter needed on the MJ (unlike the XJ).

Just grab it. If it doesn't fit, you can always sell it for a couple of bucks.

The gauges work the same except that the tachometer needs to be recalibrated. The 88 - 90 tach has a potentiometer that allows you to adjust it -- the early tachs do NOT have an adjustment so the tach has to match the engine.

Thanks. The materials are spoken for.

Several years ago I attended an all-day workshop and became a certified Tread Lightly trainer. Since then, the off-road scene in Connecticut has tightened up even more than it was then, to the point where there's virtually no place left where we can legally go off-roading. There has been no interest in Tread Lightly around here. I'm trying to clean out the basement and I found a small stash of Tread Lightly pamphlets and stuff. I don't expect I'll ever need it or use it, but I hate to throw it away. If anyone would be interested in this material, send me a PM with your name and snail mail address and its yours.

I need a steel gas tank skid for a 2001 XJ, with the plastic gas tank. There are no u-pull junkyards in Connecticut -- they've been illegal for at least 20 years. If anyone is doing any junkyard scouting and you find a 97+ XJ or a ZJ with the steel gas tank skid, I would appreciate it if you'd find out what the yard wants for it, and what you'd want to remove it and ship it to me. I don't need the frame weld nut strips -- I have a new set for an XJ so that's covered. I just need a skid plate. Original XJ would be ideal but probably hard to find. Apparently ZJ skids can be made to work. Thanks

I've never heard of an adapter. The XJ (pre-97) and MJ fuel pump/sender assemblies mount in the tank the same way, with a lock ring and O-ring. The issue is that the arm on the MJ sender is positioned opposite to the way it is for the XJ. There's no way an adapter ring can correct for that. Am I missing something?

Cool -- drills I have. And I have a spare set of the nut plate frame inserts. Just need to find a skid. No u-pulls in Connecticut, so I guess I'm off to the Classifieds. Thanks, folks. Jim, you are correct -- I'm looking for the steel skid plate, not the plastic gravel shield.