Eagle

They aren't even satin -- on my red '88 they are matte black, along with the black accents on the hood. The font is something like Helvetica Condensed (or Helvetica Narrow), and slanted.

Have the alternator checked. I've had some brand new ones that were DOA.

There should also be a plaque pop riveted to the driver's door (the door, not the door post) that has the color codes. My original XJ is an '88 with the dark blue paint. I don't think it was called Baltic Blue, I actually think it was called Teal, and it isn't like a Navy Blue at all. I'll try to remember to check the paint codes when I'm out by the Jeeps this afternoon.

The XJ transfer case skid is the same one they used on the MJ.

You won't run 12-1/2" wide tires on stock rims without spacers. 31x10.50s on factory rims leave VERY little clearance between the sidewalls and the rear springs, and when the rear axle gets at all crossed up the inner sidewall at the top rubs the inner fender well. 12.50s will be an interference fit.

Back up and start at the beginning. First, how do you plan to use the truck? Second, what size tires do you plan to run? Third (and well after the other two questions have been answered), how much lift you you think you need? Ideally, you want the least amount of lift that will get you where you're going. You can run 31x10.50s in factory rims with NO lift, and that's probably enough to get you to most fishin' holes right there. A spring over conversion is going to lift the rear by around 5-1/2 inches, which means doing a lot to the front to lift it my a comparable amount.

Yes, he should. The rear height-sensing valve should not eliminate the rear brakes under normal operating conditions, but it does severely reduce the amount/pressure of brake fluid to the rear wheels when the truck isn't loaded. Opening a front bleeder to simulate a front circuit failure doesn't bleed the "normal" circuit, this is done to bleed the emergency bypass circuit to the rear (the second line -- which is NOT a "return" line, as implied in the old posts in this thread).

The mystery filter must be made by FRAM.

The TCU harness is separate. You have to get the TCU and the harness from the donor vehicle.

What clip are you talking about?

You can use the floor shifter out of any XJ with the AW4 tranny. And the tranny control unit (TCU) for the XJ is the same as for the MJ. If you can't score a TCU right away, you can shift manually.. You'll lose second gear, and the torque converter won't lock. But that can be overcome with a simple toggle switch.

I havent touched the worm gear. I'm glad you said something because I planned on doing it today before work. I'll look into how to burp the system. When I installed it I just rotated the wheel lock to lock 40ish times. Did it when the vehicle was running so I think I'll try to jack the front end up and repeat it with it shut off. I'll double check the steering box placement too. If it helps me stay in a lane or not smash into something a little better than I'll spend the extra 20 min double checking no prob. I'm not a fan of this durango upgrade at all. The lose in turning radius isn't really worth the benefits especially when you drive it every day. I'll probably drop an XJ box into it soon unless I can find something with a similar turn. mvusse I'm not sure what steering setup he put in there before I bought it. The bar is thicker than I've seen. I'll see if I can find a pic. Kind of an older pic but gives a pretty good idea of the mess down there. Yeah, it's a mess, alright. Not XJ, MJ, or ZJ steering. Some kind of cross-over steering, with a very Mickey Mouse looking bracket for the steering stabilizer. One of your problems is that the pitman arm is lower than the frame end of the track bar. I'm guess you must have some serious bump steer.

Every time the spring flexes, even a little bit, the eye bolt slides along those two narrow surfaces and takes off a little more material. IMHO sliders are an absolutely horrible idea for a daily driver, and may not even be legal for use on the street. I'm sure you won't cut an eye bolt all the way through in three weeks, but how long do you expect it to last if you drive it every day?

:???:

If the tranny you're looking at has a transfer case, why would you be looking for another transfer case? Keep in mind that the transfers case linkage in the YJs attached directly to the transfer case, whereas in the XJ and MJ it attaches to the floor. To use the transfer case shifter that will be in the YJ you will have to butcher the floor (transmission tunnel) of your MJ, PLUS cut off the top of the transfer case shift lever to avoid interference with the dashboard. To use a YJ trans/xfer case combo in an XJ or MJ you still need an XJ/MJ transfer case shifter mechanism to do the job halfway right and neatly.

For what year?

5 to 7 quarts just to refill the tranny pan? That sounds VERY excessive.

In the interest of full disclosure, I am a manual transmission kind of guy. But ... my wife's 2000 XJ is an automatic. I want to do a partial fluid change -- I'm not going to get into dropping the tranny pan, I just want to pull the drain plug, let it drip out, then refill. I'll rinse and repeat in 20,000 miles or so. Does anyone know approximately how much fluid comes out from a simple pan drain operation? How many quarts of Dexron will I need to top it off after draining?

Oops! I didn't. Sorry. :doh:

The easiest way to get **about** two inches in front is coil spacers. They are generally referred to as 2" but I have never seen any that were a true 2 inches. They ones I see are always 1-3/4" -- which is close enough. The ZJ springs to look for would be from any 1993 through 1998 ZJ with a V8. Those springs will lift a 6-cylinder XJ or MJ exactly 1", so they should lift a 4-banger closer to 2". IMHO they will also ride pretty harsh under a 4-banger. I'd go the coil spacer route if it were my truck. (Actually, I probably wouldn't lift it at all.)

It's usually the hinge area on the driver's door that cracks. I've never seen the patch post break like that. Welding is the only proper way to fix something like that, IMHO.

You don't have to remove either the bed or the tank. Above the gas tank is where they always break. I've repaired two of them that broke there and I didn't remove the bed or drop the tank either time.

It could also be that the cable between the foot peddle and the equalizer is corroded and frozen. There is no point in trying to adjust the equalizer nut unless you know the cable is moving freely.

Once Chrysler started using the 8-1/4 axle in the XJs, for some reason the Chrysler 8-1/4 was the default for vehicles without ABS, and the Dana 35 was used with ABS. And within the 8-1/4 series, they increased the shaft size in 1997 (and newer). The 97+ Chrysler axles would be pretty decent axles if they had used the 10" x 2-1/4" rear brakes from the D44, but they used crappy Mopar 9" drums. I hate those brakes. Compared to the older AMC brakes, the 9" drums are a royal PITA to work on.

What is your rear axle now? Dana 35?