Eagle

No, you will NOT be fine without them. You can drive without them long enough to buy some, but the leaves will have a tendency to twist, and sooner or later a leaf is going to make contact with a tire and shred the sidewall. You can buy XJ-type spring clips from Husky Spring Company on-line if you can't find them locally.

No, the Peugeot has a 21-spline 231.

Yes, but his Dana 44 backing plates are trashed, which is why he needs to swap. The wider drums will NOT work with the D35 backing plates.

Change the three plugs you can access easily. If they don't look too bad, leave the first one alone. If the other three look like total garbage, THEN worry about how to access #1.

You're not missing a thing. Whoever designed that setup was an idiot.

The YJ is different. The transfer case shifter in the YJ bolts directly to the t-case rather than using a linkage, the shifter arm is inverted compared to the XJ/MJ version, and the t-case is clocked differently (although that's a function of the transmission rather than the t-case IIRC). Your best source would be an XJ or MJ. Remember you can also use a 231 from a 4.0L with the Peugeot tranny (87 through early 1990).

Never mind the drive shaft for now. You need to park the Jeep on a LEVEL floor and measure the angle on the tops of the upper ball joints on both sides of the axle. That's your caster angle.

What year is the XJ? Oops -- never mind. The D44s weren't c-clip in any year. Yes, the D35 brakes should work, but you will be limited to using the 1-3/4" D35 drums.

Its hard to tell from the photos, but I don't think I see any damage to the ring gear. How's the pinion? If the ring and pinion aren't trashed, maybe all you need is a set of spider gears. Those are the same for all ratios, and I'm sure I can scare up a set of spider gears for you once the snow melts.

Not a problem. Any threads that are showing do nothing but collect rust.

Why? What's different about the clutch?

Of course, the light is there to remind you you're in 4WD. If the light is coming on when you're in 4WD, that's what it's supposed to do. What's the problem?

Your speedometer is not even close to being correct. With 3.55 gears and 31x10.50 tires, 70 MPH should be 2100 RPM, not 2500 RPM. 45 MPH should be 1800 RPM in 4th gear, 1350 RPM in 5th gear. 2500 RPM in 5th gear would be driving you at 83 MPH.

Sounds to me like a CPS issue. The 2.5L TBI system is a Renix system, and it uses the same CPS as the Renix 4.0L.

Easy check on the gauge. Disconnect the plug in the wiring where it exits the gas tank. Turn on ignition (do not start engine). Where's the needle? Take a jumper wire and connect the fuel sender wire on the chassis side of the connector to a known good ground. (There are three wires. Black is ground. The fat wire is the fuel pump. The third -- whatever color it is -- will be the sender.) Now where's the needle? It should be at the opposite end of the scale as when you had an open circuit.

A control arm wouldn't sound as metallic as a wrench on a metal fence. I'm in over my head on this one. Sorry.

Both the 3.1L and the 3.4L are excellent swaps. Both are a huge improvement over the 2.8L, and they are the same block so it's an easy replacement. Just be sure to get one from a rear wheel drive donor. And, unlike the Buick, they aren't so much more powerful that they'll destroy the rest of the drive train immediately after installation. The 2.8L has an externally balanced flywheel. The 3.1L and 3.4L are neutral balanced. You'll need to take your 2.8L flywheel to a shop and have it neutral balanced.

"Clank" is suggestive of metal-on-metal. I very much doubt that a hub/bearing unit could make a "clank" and still roll. I also don't think anything inside the differential would make a noise that would sound like a "clank" inside the cabin. Is it really a "clank"? How about a "clunk"? I get a lot of clunking in the "new" (to me) 2001 XJ, and I have traced it to the upper control arms being shot. Too cold to change them now, and not critical, so we just soldier on until warmer weather arrives. Have you checked your control arms?

The reason I have reservations about the 87s is that the dial faces in my '87 MJ Pioneers are the old style markings, with ticks for every one MPH, not like the '88 XJ Pioneer that only has ticks at the 2.5 and 5 MPH intervals. It has been my guess that the old-style face probably has the old style cluster behind it, but I've never bothered to crawl under the dash and look.

Won't work. The '95 tank is just an overflow catch tank. The early, closed system tank on the firewall is a pressure tank that is a part of the pressurized cooling system. The cap is a pressure cap. Quadratec sells (or used to sell) new tanks and caps. If that's too much for you, some other GM and Mopar cars have used similar systems over the years and I've seen reports of junkyard pressure bottles from other makes that work. I think even the Jeep Liberty uses a pressure tank. Check Quadratec, and visit your local u-pull junkyard. See posts #11 and 16 above

Actually, the early 89s had it, too. The elimination of the C101 connector was a running change midway through the 1989 production year.

No. To be safe, 1988 through 1990, not "pre" 90. The earlier XJs and MJs used a different speedo cable attachment. Unless you want to also change the speedo cable, you can't use the cluster from an 84-86 in a 1988 vehicle. Also, the 88 and up have a potentiometer that allows setting the tachometer for 6-cylinders or 4 cylinders, so it doesn't matter what engine was in the donor vehicle. The early tachometers don't have this adjustment. You'll notice that I have carefully avoided mention of 1987. That's because, even though I have both an 87 MJ and an 87 XJ, I have never pulled the cluster out of either one and I don't know if the 87 used the arly style speedo and tach, or the late style speedo and tach.

A 4.0L doesn't have a PCV, and the tube that opens into the air cleaner box isn't the suction line for the CCV system anyway, it's supposed to be the inlet for air to go INTO the valve cover. The suction tube is the small plastic line off the back end of the valve cover. What happens is that it gets clogged and there's no suction, so no way to evacuate the oily fumes from the crankcase. Plus as the engines get older and more worn, there's more blowby at the rings, so the crankcase becomes pressurized rather than being a partial vacuum. The oily fumes can't go where they're supposed to go, so the system works in reverse and pushes the fumes back out through the inlet tube into the air box. The water you see mixed in is condensation from cold weather operation.

The alleged C101 problems, IMHO, are vastly exaggerated. Back around 1990 the dealer from whom I bought my '88 Cherokee had gone out of business. I took the XJ to another dealer for some minor service, and the service manager mentioned a TSB on the C101 connector that he claimed would cure all sorts of problems. So I told him to go ahead. The TSB was to cut out the C101 connector and splice all the wires -- it cost me several hundred dollars, and after all that the result was that it didn't accomplish ANY of the improvements he had said it would. I mentioned that the next time I was there, and the lying [bleep] then claimed he never told me it would improve anything. Needless to say, I never went back to that stealership. Meanwhile, I have an '87 MJ and two '88 MJs that all still have the C101 intact, and there have been no problems with any of them that can be attributed to the C101.

No, the LWB also offered a small tank. The external dimensions are the same as the 23.5 gallon tank, it just has baffles inside to reduce the capacity. They did the same thing with the early Cherokees. I believe it had something to do with minimizing curb weight to maximize fuel efficiency on the government mileage tests. The SWB only had one size, as far as I know.