Eagle

Be sure you have the correct slave cylinder/throwout bearing. The one for the AX-15 has a larger inside diameter than the one for the AX-5.

Not machining the flywheel was a good thing. The FSM very clearly says not to, and I know people who have ignored that to their detriment.

Using an MJ as a daily driver is incompatible with running 35" tires. Make up your mind.

An alternate diagnosis would be that it IS switching from open loop (warm-up) mode to closed loop mode, and that one or more of the sensors used in closed-loop mode is faulty. Several sensors are by-passed in open-loop mode, so if it runs fine with sensors by-passed then doesn't run well with the sensors are in the loop ... that should tell you where to start looking. I think the oxygen sensor would be a good place to start.

A very long time ago I needed to do a brake job before heading off for a weekend to pick up my then-fiancee in another state and from there trek over some mountains to visit her grandparents. To get it done, my brother came over and, while I did one side he did the other side. Cool, bro, thanks a million. As we started down the back side of the mountains, the brake warning light came on and the peddle dropped. Oh, bleep. Fortunately, the car was a manual transmission with a high compression V8 so there was plenty of compression braking available and we made it fine with only the front (disc) brakes. After I returned home from the weekend, I pulled the rear brakes apart to see what might have gone wrong. What went wrong was that my helpful brother wasn't as careful working on my car as I know he would have been on HIS car. He assembled on of the link bars between the piston and the brake shoe wrong, and it came off under pressure. Once the link was gone, there was nothing holding the pistol in the wheel cylinder, so it popped out. The parts were there and I was able to reassemble the wheel cylinder, but the fluid had ruined the brand new brake shoes on that side. And, of course, they don't sell brake shoes for just one side, so ... That was, IIRC, 1973. In the forty years since, I have never allowed anyone but me to work on my brakes. But I digress. The point of this shaggy dog story is simply that it is possible to put things together wrong, allowing a wheel cylinder to pop. Double check how everything fits together.

How could it pop off? First off, the rubber cap you can see is only a dust cap. The actual gland/seal is inside the cylinder. There are two, one facing front and one facing rear. Then there are two metal (or sometimes plastic or ceramic, I guess, but I'm ancient and I've only seen metal) pistons, then the rubber dust boots. If you have a pre-1990 MJ with Bendix drums, there should be short connectors that extend from the metal pistons to the front and rear shoes. If you have a 1990+ with 9" Chrysler brakes, the shoes contact the pistons directly. http://constructionforklifts.tpub.com/TM-10-3930-621-34/TM-10-3930-621-340128im.jpg With a bleeder screw open, you just can't generate enough pressure to pop anything. Please tell me you weren't bleeding the brakes before you reinstalled the brake drums ...

How do they work? I see gutter clamps, but I don't see any way to attach them to a rack. The angle looks wrong for welding, and if you weld them the measurement for width has to be exactly correct. Doesn't look like a good choice to me.

So if it's leaking from a wheel cylinder ... you replace the wheel cylinder.

Plus the 207 has a low ratio of 2.6x and the 231 is 2.72:1. Slightly better crawl ratio. And better oiling.

I think it will look just fine. I don't think you'll have much luck finding light small enough to fit the corner notches, but I don't thank that will matter at all. I'm interested in what you find for mounts, because I'm planning to make something similar (probably a very short version of a Garvin Wilderness Rack) and my big question is what to use for mounting hardware.

No, you will NOT be fine without them. You can drive without them long enough to buy some, but the leaves will have a tendency to twist, and sooner or later a leaf is going to make contact with a tire and shred the sidewall. You can buy XJ-type spring clips from Husky Spring Company on-line if you can't find them locally.

No, the Peugeot has a 21-spline 231.

Yes, but his Dana 44 backing plates are trashed, which is why he needs to swap. The wider drums will NOT work with the D35 backing plates.

Change the three plugs you can access easily. If they don't look too bad, leave the first one alone. If the other three look like total garbage, THEN worry about how to access #1.

You're not missing a thing. Whoever designed that setup was an idiot.

The YJ is different. The transfer case shifter in the YJ bolts directly to the t-case rather than using a linkage, the shifter arm is inverted compared to the XJ/MJ version, and the t-case is clocked differently (although that's a function of the transmission rather than the t-case IIRC). Your best source would be an XJ or MJ. Remember you can also use a 231 from a 4.0L with the Peugeot tranny (87 through early 1990).

Never mind the drive shaft for now. You need to park the Jeep on a LEVEL floor and measure the angle on the tops of the upper ball joints on both sides of the axle. That's your caster angle.

What year is the XJ? Oops -- never mind. The D44s weren't c-clip in any year. Yes, the D35 brakes should work, but you will be limited to using the 1-3/4" D35 drums.

Its hard to tell from the photos, but I don't think I see any damage to the ring gear. How's the pinion? If the ring and pinion aren't trashed, maybe all you need is a set of spider gears. Those are the same for all ratios, and I'm sure I can scare up a set of spider gears for you once the snow melts.

Not a problem. Any threads that are showing do nothing but collect rust.

Why? What's different about the clutch?

Of course, the light is there to remind you you're in 4WD. If the light is coming on when you're in 4WD, that's what it's supposed to do. What's the problem?

Your speedometer is not even close to being correct. With 3.55 gears and 31x10.50 tires, 70 MPH should be 2100 RPM, not 2500 RPM. 45 MPH should be 1800 RPM in 4th gear, 1350 RPM in 5th gear. 2500 RPM in 5th gear would be driving you at 83 MPH.

Sounds to me like a CPS issue. The 2.5L TBI system is a Renix system, and it uses the same CPS as the Renix 4.0L.

Easy check on the gauge. Disconnect the plug in the wiring where it exits the gas tank. Turn on ignition (do not start engine). Where's the needle? Take a jumper wire and connect the fuel sender wire on the chassis side of the connector to a known good ground. (There are three wires. Black is ground. The fat wire is the fuel pump. The third -- whatever color it is -- will be the sender.) Now where's the needle? It should be at the opposite end of the scale as when you had an open circuit.