Eagle

The link you provided clearly says "Chrome." Since they appear to be one piece, rather than a steel nut with a stainless cap crimped on like the factory lug nuts, I'm going to go with "Chrome."

Rear drive shaft u-joint angles. All wrong.

I notice that you are in Connecticut. Be advised those lugs nuts will work, but they'll only be good for one Connecticut winter. They are not stainless steel, they're chrome plated. The plating is VERY thin and poor quality. It will not stand up to that liquid salt stuff Connecticut now puts on the roads.

Out of four numbered items, I only see one question: "Can it be fixed and drive straight?" The answer is obviously, "Yes," but to make such a repair is going to require professional equipment, professional skills, and money.

They only came with the auxiliary fan if they had a/c, heavy-duty cooling, and/or a tow package. There is no "shroud" for the auxiliary fan ... it was part of the fan assembly, which just drops into place. It looks like this:

Yep, that's a Dana 44. And it looks like some sneaky devil stole the operating rod for your rear height-sensing valve.

Show us a picture of the rear differential from the rear, so we can see the shape of the diff cover and the bolt pattern. I'm not getting a warm and fuzzy feeling that your rear diff is a D44 like you think it is.

What year? What engine?

They list it as a rear main seal but I think it's actually the front crank seal. The rear seal for the 4.0L is a two-piece seal. But go ahead and buy the one you found, and be sure to let us know how it works out for you.

Just think how much higher it would be if they were to fix those broken lines ...

First of all, it isn't a "battery" gauge. It's a volt meter. It registers the voltage in the system, but if the engine is running it should be reporting the alternator output voltage, not the battery voltage. To check battery voltage, turn on the ignition but do NOT start the engine. Second, it can only report the voltage as it "sees" it ... at the dashboard, after the power has traveled a long distance through small wires and old, questionable connections. That's why Cruiser recommends cleaning up the connections. But, even after that, factory volt meters are not known for extreme accuracy. To check your electrical system and alternator, start the engine. Use a multi-meter to check the voltage directly at the battery, between the two terminals. It should read approximately 13.6 volts. Then turn on the headlights and the heater blower and check it again. If the reading drops significantly with a heavy draw on the alternator, the alternator isn't doing its job.

You have to remove the ring and carrier to get to it, they are NOT at the end of the axles. Hence, 'inner' seals. WRONG! This is for a NON-c-clip axle. The seal is at the outer end of the tube. It is not necessary to remove the ring gear and carrier. It is not necessary to even open the pumpkin. The seal is a press fit into the outer end of the axle tube. You need a seal driver to install it. Like this:

Have you actually tested for spark while cranking, or are you guessing that there's no spark based on when the engine decides to start?

Enough difference to make it worth doing. Dynamat, with jute over it. Mass is what dampens noise. Dynamat.

Remove axle shaft. Remove oil seal. Coat new seal with gear oil. Install new seal. Pack axle bearing. Reinstall axle shaft.

You don't have an option. The 2.5L uses a one-piece rear main seal. The 4.0L uses a two-piece rear main seal. Oil it.

Take out your front drive shaft and drive it again. U-joints don't like changes to their operating angle. Your lift may have changed the angle on your front u-joint enough to induce a vibration.

Caster is part of alignment.

On a two-wheel drive? Why buy new ones, you have to pack grease into them before installing anyway, so why not just repack the old ones, like they're intended to be serviced?

A shutter is what's behind the lens of a camera. What's the problem you are having with your Comanche? How tall is the lift, and have you done an alignment after installing the lift?

Here's a view that includes the brakes. This is not for a Cherokee or Comanche, but it's close enough to show you how things go together. The seal is the unnumbered part just outboard of the dust shield, behind the inner bearing.

It would help to have a photo, but I suspect you are referring to the PCV hose. The 2.5L engine used an actual PCV valve, unlike the 4.0L that used a small CCV line that didn't have a one-way check valve ball in it.

Hornbrod is correct. I posted the exploded view of the 4WD hub/bearing unit to explain to you what the parts listing was you originally got from Advance (your post #9). Here's a view of a setup similar to what you have (minus the rotor): I'll have a better view tomorrow, but for some reason Photobucket is off-line at the moment.

More likely your alternator just can't keep up with the extra load of the a/c. However, you need to check it at the battery with a multi-meter, not rely on the factory gauge in the dashboard.

If your drive train came from a 2000 XJ (Cherokee), you don't have a dana 44 rear axle because the Cherokee didn't offer a Dana 44 in 2000. You would have either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25. The 2000 Cherokee used a low pinion Dana 30 in the front. Up through 1999 they were high pinion, so be certain of what you have. It will make a difference.