Eagle

First of all, it isn't a "battery" gauge. It's a volt meter. It registers the voltage in the system, but if the engine is running it should be reporting the alternator output voltage, not the battery voltage. To check battery voltage, turn on the ignition but do NOT start the engine. Second, it can only report the voltage as it "sees" it ... at the dashboard, after the power has traveled a long distance through small wires and old, questionable connections. That's why Cruiser recommends cleaning up the connections. But, even after that, factory volt meters are not known for extreme accuracy. To check your electrical system and alternator, start the engine. Use a multi-meter to check the voltage directly at the battery, between the two terminals. It should read approximately 13.6 volts. Then turn on the headlights and the heater blower and check it again. If the reading drops significantly with a heavy draw on the alternator, the alternator isn't doing its job.

You have to remove the ring and carrier to get to it, they are NOT at the end of the axles. Hence, 'inner' seals. WRONG! This is for a NON-c-clip axle. The seal is at the outer end of the tube. It is not necessary to remove the ring gear and carrier. It is not necessary to even open the pumpkin. The seal is a press fit into the outer end of the axle tube. You need a seal driver to install it. Like this:

Have you actually tested for spark while cranking, or are you guessing that there's no spark based on when the engine decides to start?

Enough difference to make it worth doing. Dynamat, with jute over it. Mass is what dampens noise. Dynamat.

Remove axle shaft. Remove oil seal. Coat new seal with gear oil. Install new seal. Pack axle bearing. Reinstall axle shaft.

You don't have an option. The 2.5L uses a one-piece rear main seal. The 4.0L uses a two-piece rear main seal. Oil it.

Take out your front drive shaft and drive it again. U-joints don't like changes to their operating angle. Your lift may have changed the angle on your front u-joint enough to induce a vibration.

Caster is part of alignment.

On a two-wheel drive? Why buy new ones, you have to pack grease into them before installing anyway, so why not just repack the old ones, like they're intended to be serviced?

A shutter is what's behind the lens of a camera. What's the problem you are having with your Comanche? How tall is the lift, and have you done an alignment after installing the lift?

Here's a view that includes the brakes. This is not for a Cherokee or Comanche, but it's close enough to show you how things go together. The seal is the unnumbered part just outboard of the dust shield, behind the inner bearing.

It would help to have a photo, but I suspect you are referring to the PCV hose. The 2.5L engine used an actual PCV valve, unlike the 4.0L that used a small CCV line that didn't have a one-way check valve ball in it.

Hornbrod is correct. I posted the exploded view of the 4WD hub/bearing unit to explain to you what the parts listing was you originally got from Advance (your post #9). Here's a view of a setup similar to what you have (minus the rotor): I'll have a better view tomorrow, but for some reason Photobucket is off-line at the moment.

More likely your alternator just can't keep up with the extra load of the a/c. However, you need to check it at the battery with a multi-meter, not rely on the factory gauge in the dashboard.

If your drive train came from a 2000 XJ (Cherokee), you don't have a dana 44 rear axle because the Cherokee didn't offer a Dana 44 in 2000. You would have either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25. The 2000 Cherokee used a low pinion Dana 30 in the front. Up through 1999 they were high pinion, so be certain of what you have. It will make a difference.

:doh: ABS ... of course. "Royalex" is ABS. http://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Mend-Plastic-Repair-Holding-Tank/dp/B003JC3UB2 http://plasti-mend.com/ http://www.plastex.net/index.php?pr=Repaired_Photos

what are, the link or the 3 different seals and the 2 different designs? Redwolf The three different seals and two designs. The original AMC hub/bearing units could be serviced -- you could purchase new bearings and seals, and rebuild a hub. The cost of all the parts was about the same as the cost of a complete new hub, so very few people ever did it -- and it required a 12-ton shop press to do the work. Chrysler changed the design, and the later ones are not considered to be user serviceable. Parts to service ONE 4WD front hub (1984 - 1989): And here's an exploded view of the front axle, with the front hub itself opened up to the individual parts:

Those are for the 4WD hub/bearing assemblies.

They aren't made of fiberglass. You need a repair kit for Royalex. (That's a trade name -- I don't remember what the generic name is for the stuff.)

Rear flares (plus the brackets and interior liners if possible) Rear bumper? Headliner Fuel pump and gas sender Actually, I'm not sure what you're asking. Do you just want to know what else you might need for the 4WD conversion, or are you asking what else on the truck is worth grabbing? If the latter, remember -- the last MJ was made 22 years ago. Junkyards are the ONLY source for a great many parts.

Tail lights Tail gate Spare tire winch? Fuse panel

I say again: Friends don't let friends use Fram oil filters.

I don't think any sensors are involved, if we're talking about a cold start. The Renix ECU ignores most (or all) sensor inputs and operates on a hard-programmed fuel-air map until the block coolant temperature sensor sees a temperature of 165 degrees or higher, after which it switches to operating in closed loop mode and responds to sensor inputs.

But Wally World sells Fram filters, and friends don't let friends use Fram oil filters. Advance Auto and Pep Boys both stock the correct, metric oil filter for the 87-90 4.0L in both Purolator and Purolator Premium grades.

I have a ton of empirical evidence. I have one 1988 XJ that had the C101 removed and spliced. I have one 1987 XJ that still has the C101, a 1987 MJ that still has the C101, and two 1988 MJs that still have the C101. The 1988 XJ that had it replaced doesn't run any better than the four that still have it. That's empirical evidence. I have no problem with anyone cutting out the C101 if they have the time and inclination to do so. If there are electrical issues that affect circuits running through the C101 it's an obvious place to check. I just don't see it as being a necessary item of work for people who aren't having problems.