Eagle

Nope. The problem is that the Renix ECU doesn't ever "learn" to optimize itself. Every time you start the engine, the computer has to run through a checklist and verify signals from several sensors. It's worse if you just turn the key directly to START, because if the fuel system lost pressure overnight the engine cranks while the fuel pump is still bringing the system up to pressure. I always listen to the fuel pump, and I don't start cranking the starter until the fuel pump has run and shut off. But with a remote starter you don't get that option.

That's the one. If that had been available when I needed it, I would have bought it rather than the Moroso.

The ones I have are from Moroso Speed Equipment. Summit racing carries them. Somebody else has come out with one that's the same shape as the plastic bottle and fits right on the same bracket. Don't remember who makes it but it has been discussed here previously. That one is a neater solution than the Moroso bottle, but it wasn't available when I bought mine. Here's the one I used, but Summit now offers several other types, as well Go to their site and search on "Moroso surge tank" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63650/overview/

Cherokee leaf springs are flatter than Comanche leaf springs. Typically, a Cherokee AAL produces about 1-1/2" to 2" LESS lift in a Comanche than the same AAL would produce in a Cherokee. So an AAL that lifts a Cherokee 3 inches might lift a Comanche 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches.

The two questions are unrelated. With a 4-1/2" lift you NEED a longer rubber hose from the frame to the axle. Two options that many people have used are 94/95 YJ, or mid-90s Dakota. As to the rear height sensing valve, there is no need or reason to fabricate a drop bracket. All you need is a longer rod between the arm on the valve and the ball stud on the differential housing. With no load in the bed, the arm should ride horizontal.

How are you planning to bore it yourself? Do you have a machine shop? You don't bore engine blocks with a Dremel ...

I don't think the mechanical speedometers register in reverse. There's a pin at zero, the needle can't go lower than that.

I found 17 threads on NAXJA that mention resetting it, but I couldn't find a link to the article with photos that I know I saw many years ago. It can be done.

Please describe how you reset a disposable timer. We're all ears. The procedure is in videos on Youtube, and has been posted several times at NAXJA over the years.

???? Really? Got a source for this information? I have never heard this.

Temperature and oil pressure gauges in my '88 XJ read low, and have been that way for the past ten years or so. I've replaced the oil pressure sender three times, and it made no difference. Factory gauges aren't the most accurate in the universe. I regard them as more of a "GO / NO GO" indicator. As long as the needle points where it usually runs, I figure everything's okay. If it moves away from whatever it considers "normal," then I start checking things. Still better than idiot lights -- although IMHO an ideal setup would be both.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/27326-brake-bleeding-procedure-with-rear-height-sensoring-valve/

My friend, Erich, replaced the cab-side hat sections after welding in replacement pans. IIRC he treated the concealed portions with POR-15 before he welded them in place.

Maybe ... or maybe not. Could be a bad relay, or more likely a bad ground at the horn.

The factory 2-barrel carburetor on the 2.8L was JUNK, so I don't think you did yourself any favors by replacing what was probably a much better carburetor with a 2-barrel. The 4-barrel, all things being equal, should give you both better performance and better economy if it was correctly sized for the engine. And it's tough to get better than an Edelbrock Performer manifold. If all it takes to get your engine running again is to pull a wire and then plug it in again, it certainly seems the problem is electrical. Have you tried a different set of ignition wires?

There is only one proportioning valve, and that's a distinct possibility. When you worked on the brakes, did you follow the MJ-specific procedure for bleeding, to ensure that the rear brake bypass line doesn't have air trapped in it?

Yes. 1986 Comanche FSM for the 2.8L V6. There is no valve adjustment for the AMC engines. The rocker arm retainer nut on those is torqued down against a shoulder on the stud.

Check your pushrods -- see if any of them got bent.

My brother's buddy the stock car racer always adjusted Chevy valves with the engine running. Back off until the rocker clatters, then tighten until it stops making "I'm falling apart" noises. It's messy -- there will be oil squirting around.

You're talking a few hundred pounds of gear there. Springs deflect when you add load -- that's what they're supposed to do. That's how the load sensing proportioning valve in the MJ rear brakes works. Deflecting under load doesn't mean the springs have sagged. They haven't sagged unless the vehicle doesn't come back to normal height when the load is removed. For an XJ, the measurement from the center of the wheel cap up to the bottom edge of the flare should be 17.0 inches ... with no load in the back, just a regular spare tire and maybe half a tank or less of fuel.

I would pay a lot more for a truck that DOESN'T have a lift.

Because hundreds of people have done the XJ main leaf AAL budget boost, and they ALL report that they gained 1-1/2 inches. In twenty-five-plus years of tinkering with XJs, the only one that didn't produce an inch and a half was the '88 I did for my ex-GF ... and that one produced a lift of 1-1/4 inches. Once you introduce leaves with different arch than the spring pack in the vehicle, unless enough other people have done it to have a history with whatever spring you choose ... there is no way to predict what you'll get.

The reason turning the key to the START position seems to turn everything off is that turning the key to the START position turns everything off. As the saying goes, "That's a feature, not a bug." The system is designed to operate that way. The one thing that should continue to function when cranking (besides the starter motor itself, of course) is the fuel pump. But that brings us to another little part that can create problems: the fuel pump ballast resistor. I don't know if it can go into an intermittent failure mode but ... why not? During normal engine operation, the ballast resistor drops the voltage to the fuel pump to about 9 volts to reduce noise. During engine cranking, there's a bypass circuit that sends a full 12 volts to the fuel pump. In the case a really bad ballast resistor, the engine will start when the fuel pump runs during cranking, then after the key is released to the RUN position the fuel pump cuts out and a few seconds later the engine dies. The 87 4.0L didn't have a ballast resistor. It's safe to run without it, so you could try jumpering yours and see if it makes a difference.

If you're going to scavenge anyway, IMHO it makes better sense to scavenge for something that will generate predictable results. Sure, any 2-1/2-inch wide spring can be stuck in there ... but there's no way to know until you've paid for the springs and done the work what the result is going to be. With the XJ spring, so many people have done it that the result is well known in advance.