Eagle

The rear adjusters were likely your problem. The rear drums should be adjusted just to the point of VERY light contact when rotating the wheel when the brakes are not applied, then back off like one click. The self-adjusters generally don't self-adjust, so you should check the adjustment every six months or so -- or more often if it's a daily driver.

Well ... yes, but no. Not really. There are two advantages to using the XJ main leaves, and they are related. Using leaves out of another set of XJ springs means that the arch is correctly matched to your springs, so you don't have the AAL fighting against the other leaves in the pack. The other advantage is that you pretty well know how much lift you'll get: 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". If you need more than an inch and a half, then you can either use multiple leaves from the donor XJ packs, or go with leaves that have more native arch. The problem is that the one leaf with more arch is doing a lot of work, and it may get fatigued and sag fairly quickly. It's much better if the arch in all the leaves matches.

Nope. Much too big, and way too many wires.

The best "budget" lift for the rear of an XJ (IMHO) is to get another set of XJ rear springs. Take them apart, cut the eyes off the main leaves, and use them as AALs. The prevailing wisdom from NAXJA is that this produces 1-1/2" of lift. Several years ago I rebuilt an '88 XJ for an ex-girlfriend and I did the home-brew AAL because the rear had sagged about a half inch. The second set of springs came out of an '89, so both sets were old and had miles on them. The AAL grossed 1-1/4 inches. Since I started out a half inch down, the net was 3/4-inch higher than "stock," or just about where the Up Country option would be on a late-model XJ. This approach reinforces the full length of the main leaf, so in addition to gaining a modest lift and additional carrying capacity, you also get a much stronger (in the sense of resistant to damage) spring pack.

Very bad idea. If the springs are already sagged, a longer shackle will ensure that the springs become totally trashed in a very short time. Before trying to throw money in the wrong direction, start with figuring out what it needs. Measure from the center of the wheel/axle to the underside of the flare on both sides and report the measurement. It should should be 17 inches. Once we know what it is, we can brainstorm ways to correct any problems.

Except for really base models that only have one horn (and thus one tone), most vehicles have either two or four horns. Most have two -- one high and one low. Without a sound clip it's impossible to describe the difference, but if you ever hear a vehicle with a single-tone horn, you'll immediately know the difference between it and a dual-tone horn. First step to knowing what you need is to figure out what you've got -- or what you're supposed to have. Most MJs and XJs had two horns, mounted to the lower radiator cross brace. One is the high tone and the other is the low tone. I've never tried to figure out which goes on which side. If you have to replace both horns, it doesn't matter -- you'll need one of each and it doesn't make any difference which one goes where. MJ horns are one-wire -- they ground through their attachment to the chassis.

^^^ Just buy yourself a good set of wires and any cap & rotor with copper/brass (not aluminum) contacts and you're good to go.

Whereas Clayton is an industrial engineer who developed his longarm setup specifically for his own, personal ZJ Grand Cherokee. It had to be bullet-proof, because when Clayton wheels he's an animal. It worked so well that other members of his local club started asking him to make copies for them. Pretty soon he had convinced his company to let him take over an unused corner of the warehouse, and Clayton's Offroad was born. A few years later they moved into their own quarters.

I don't think an '89 ECU will make a difference in an '88 vehicle. The bump in horsepower and torque was from the '87 model year to the '88 model year.

The needle should be straight up at operating temperature. That said, the nedle in my '88 Cherokee has read low for at least five years. I probably need to refresh the grounds to get it accurate again, but I haven't had time. I don't think it's wise to start trying to diagnose a problem without even knowing if there is a problem.

The 2.5L and the 4.0L used the same temperature sensor, so that's not the problem. First question: What does your gauge actually read once the engine is fully warmed up, and what do you think it should read?

Clogged catalytic converter? Dirty/clogged fuel filter?

It's a tough job, but somebody's gotta do it. The thing is, we're all busy and we all have too many things going on, and it takes three or four times longer to try to decipher a post that's written in poor English with little or no punctuation as it does to read something that's in "standard" English. I realize I'm an olde pharte and a curmudgeon but, after awhile, I just stop trying and I won't read such posts any more. If one of them happens to be one to which I know the answer -- who loses? Not me.

Then why bother swapping clusters? IMHO, a light that pops on is a better (more visible) backup than a duplicate gauge. Post a photo so we can see what you're talking about. Because I like my junk to look semi-original at first glance. I'll post a pic ASAP. What's more "semi-original" than an original factory instrument cluster? If you like your vehicles to look "semi-original," why install aftermarket gauges instead of factory equipment? Respectfully, you're not making any sense.

Search for discussions of "death wobble"

I'm sorry, but after this post I just have to say something. Is your keyboard defective? Doesn't it have a 'G' key? The following words ALL end in the letter 'g'. Is it so difficult to just type the last letter? relyin adjustin timin gettin fillin causin bein gettin

If you were getting good mileage before rebuilding the carb and poor mileage after rebuilding the carb, I'd guess that something in the carburetor got messed up during the rebuild.

Geyser? I don't think I've ever looked into an uncovered master cylinder while someone else stepped on the brakes, but that doesn't sound right. The fluid is supposed to go through the line to the wheels, not geyser up in the reservoir.

Remove the speedometers from both clusters. Install speedometer 'A' in cluster 'B,', install speedometer 'B' in cluster 'A.' The speedometers in the clusters with gauges have a trip odemeter. The speedo in the idiot light cluster doesn't have a trip odometer. So you would lose the opportunity to gain a trip odometer, but you'll keep your original speedometer so no need to change the cable.

Then why bother swapping clusters? IMHO, a light that pops on is a better (more visible) backup than a duplicate gauge. Post a photo so we can see what you're talking about.

I assume you mean 4.10 ratio. The 2.8L V6 was rated at 115 horsepower, not 120, and the rating was probably optimistic. My personal feeling is that you simply shouldn't even consider tires as big as 33" or 35" with the 2.8L, but it depends a bit on how you plan to use it. For trail only, it might be tolerable. For regular street driving, you'll regret it. I'll assume the factory tire size for your vehicle was probably 215/75-15. With 4.10 gears and the 5-speed, at 65 MPH in top gear the engine would be turning at 2512 RPM. 65 MPH in fourth gear would be 3349 RPM. You can't get gears any deeper than 4.88 for the Dana 30, so let's look at 4.88 gears with 35" tires. 65 MPH in top gear would turn the engine at 2375 RPM, and 65 MPH in fourth gear would be 3167 RPM. In other words, your final drive ratio would be higher (lower RPM) than stock gearing. 33" tires would be marginally better. At 65 MPH with 4.88 gears top gear with 33" tires would be 2526 RPM, and fourth gear would be turning 3368 RPM. Basically equal to your factory gearing and tire size. If you leave the stock 4.10 gearing, with 33" tires 65 MPH would be 2122 RPM and fourth gear would be 2829 RPM.

No. And your stock cluster has three idiot lights -- one for temperature, one for oil pressure, and one for voltage/alternator. Which one did you want to keep, and WHY would you want an idiot light instead of knowing what your vehicle is doing?

If the gauge is good and the printed circuit has continuity, then the problem HAS to be in the wiring between the sender and the printed circuit, or in the power feed TO the gauge cluster. But the other gauges (temperature and fuel) work the same way, so if they're giving you readings you have 12 volts to the cluster. Did you check the printed circuit for continuity of the power feed from the wiring connector to the gauge? If you have a multimeter, you can run another check on the sender. The ohm rating is 0 to 88 ohms. According to the FSM, 0 psi should return a reading of 1 ohm, 40 psi should return 46 ohms, and 80 psi should return 87 ohms. So if you put the multimeter on the sender connector and the other probe to ground, you should be reading 0 or 1 ohm with the engine off. Idle is about 25 psi (typically) so by interpolation if you start the engine and let it idle, you should read something like 20 to 25 ohms, and if you rev it to around 2000 RPM (cruising speed) you should get 46 ohms or better.

You could try hot-wiring it. Take a 12-volt wire from any circuit that's switched by the ignition and run that to the positive terminal on the gauge. Run a second wire direct from the negative terminal on the gauge to the sender.

There is also a possibility that the printed circuit on the back of the cluster has been damaged. Shouldn't happen unless you've been working under the dash and maybe slipped with a tool, but it's a possibility.