Eagle

Nope, forward is forward, and the brakes don't know if it's being driven, towed, or pushed. If you can roll it forward without undue resistance, it's not a brake problem. Unfortunately, in that case I have to agree with dasbulliwagen, look at the tranny.

Could it be the CPS overheating? I began having a similar problem with my '88 MJ shortly after I replaced the CPS. It was okay at first, possibly because I replaced it in January. Once the weather warmed up, I would drive for 3 or 4 miles and it would just cut out. If I sat there for 30 to 45 minutes, it would start up and I could drive home. I still haven't repaired it, so I don't know for sure that's the problem. I just parked it until I have time to deal with it.

My first guess is that the rear brakes are seized. The nature of the drum brakes is that they hold better going forward than they do in reverse. If the shoes are rusted and/or the linings swelled, there may be just enough contact for the rear brakes to apply themselves when you try to go forward. Try jacking up the rear wheels and see if you can spin them in the forward direction with the wheels off the ground. If you can't -- then pull the wheels and remove the brake drums and try again.

That's the spec, although it should be GL-3 rather than GL-5, I believe. But I think that's more important in the AX-15. I used 85W-140 for keeping a whiny transmission quiet. I drove it for a couple of years, sold it, and the new owner had no problems for a t least a year. Then we lost contact.

I was getting bored while recuperating from surgery, so to have something to occupy my time I turned to a small project I've been ignoring for a long time. Along the way, I managed to come up with two pairs of MJ rear springs. Both sets are 3+1, so I guess they're standard springs. 2WD or 4WD? Your guess is as good as mine. The only problem was that three out the four springs had broken leaves. But .. not all the same leaf, so I set out to pull individual leaves from the three springs to make up one good spring to make a pair. I got together one overload leaf, one third leaf, one second leaf, and a main leaf. Spent a bunch of time wire brushing and chipping flaked rust off them, then put on two or three coats on Rustoleum semi-gloss black and reassembled. The first thing I discovered when I laid out my finished creation next to the original spring is that the overload leafs are not symmetrical. Y'all may have been aware of that, but I wasn't. So I loosed the center pin nut, spun the overlad leaf around 180 degrees, and tightened it up again. Just stiing out of a vehicle, the free arch of the two spring packs looks pretty close, so I believe if they were put in a vehicle they would probably ride evely. Then I looked closer, and I discovered that the rebound clips (which are riveted to the third leaves in MJ springs) aren't the same height. On the spring I rebuilt, I replaced the bolts through the rebound clips with new 3/8" bolts in new 1/2" steel sleeves. Even with the new sleeve, the cross bolts leave a gap of a quarter inch or more (easily enough to add a leaf) to the top of the mean leaf. The original spring has zero gap. I have one more third leaf, which has the taller rebound clips, so I now plan to disassemble the original spring and swap the third leaf. The question is -- why the difference? The two springs, side-by-side Detail of one end The difference between the rebound clips

Looks very similar to the cap sitting on my '88 MJ right now. Not exactly the same -- mine tapers down more gradually in the front, and the twin vertical windows at the rear are slanted on mine rather than straight vertical. I have no idea who made mine. I bought it used several years ago.

What weight gear oil did you use? I've kept noisy transmissions happy for periods of several years by changing to a heavier weight than specified. It makes shifting a bit difficult on cold mornings but, other than that, there's no penaalty and it keeps the gears and bearings happier.

Definitely NOT a Pioneer if it had idiot lights. Only the base model had idiot lights. Pioneers had all gauges except the tachometer standard, and the tachometer was optional. I would start by finding what part number water pump you installed, and verify that it's the correct water pump for a 4.0L with a serpentine belt. The serpentine belt routing causes the pump to rotate in the opposite direction from a conventional vee belt setup. Because the 4.0L block is basically identical to the older 4.2L, and the 4.2L had vee belts, a 4.2L water pump will bolt on but the blades on the impeller are oriented wrong for the "reverse" rotation with a serpentine belt. Also, be sure the lower radiator hose isn't collapsing. Tat spring is in there for a reason.

It won't hold because that's the design. Try it heading forward down the hill. The drum brakes on the MJ are what used to be called "servo assisted" brakes. The reason for the unequal length shoes and for some of the other hardware inside is to allow the brakes, once applied so the shoes contact the drums, to use the friction to rotate the shoes and jam them tighter against the drums for more stopping power. But ... it only works going forward. That's just the nature of the beast. Part number 12 in yjxj's exploded diagram is NOT the parking brake adjuster. It's the primary brake adjuster, and should be adjusted with the parking brake cables backed off and slack. Adjust the shoes just to the point of slight drag, then back off two clicks on the star wheel. The factory manual says to perform a final adjustment by doing five hard stops when going in reverse. THEN you adjust the parking brake cable. The FSM calls for using a special tool to check the tension in the forward cable, ahead of the splitter. For the rest of us, the brake should be adjusted so that it will hold the vehicle when headed forward on a moderate downgrade (say 5 percent to 7 percent). Don't even try to make it hold when parking headed uphill ... you'll just break (not brake) something.

I can tell you the values for the resistors, but I don't trust my math for figuring out what the voltage should be. Lo = 2.39 Ohms M1 = 0.89 Ohms M2 = 0.34 Ohms Hi = 0 Ohms You should definitely not be getting the same voltage for all the switch positions. The resistors drop the voltage, and it's the voltage getting to the fan that controls speed. You also should not be getting zero volts with the switch in the OFF position, because the fan speed control doesn't have an OFF. The lowest speed is still a speed -- the fan only turns off when the mode selector (Heat/Vent/Hi-Lo) is turned to OFF. I just did a bit of refresher training on basic electrical theory. Amperage figures into the equation, and what I just read suggests that resistors DON'T drop the voltage in a circuit unless there is something else in the circuit that's using power. If I understood that correctly, with just the multi-tester connected but no fan in the circuit, the voltage would always be equal to the battery voltage. Which is consistent with your results. I'm baffled. Your tests appear to suggest that you have power to the fan motor, ground from the fan motor, the fan motor runs when hot-wired -- but it won't run when plugged into the chassis wiring harness. We're obviously missing something here. Do another test for ground. Unplug the motor. Connect your tester to the negative terminal of the body side of the fan connector, and connect the other lead from the tester directly to the negative terminal of the battery. See what the resistance reading is.

I don't know, but I would be very surprised if it worked.

Sounds like a master cylinder problem to me.

The shout box isn't confusing to me -- I have never looked at it. Would I miss it if it went away? Nope, not a bit. If I wanted to be posting on Facebook, I would have created a Facebook account.

I know several computer geeks who regard Norton as a virus in itself. Dump it. There are GOOD free anti-virus packages out there. I tried AVG and I didn't like it. I know use Avast!, which some reviewers rate slightly below AVG and some rate higher than AVG. You haven't said how much memory the desktop computer has. You need a minimum of 4 GB for Windows 7. Actually, the 32-bit version will function with 2 GB and it'll limp along with 1 GB, but to do anything processor and memory intensive, 4 is better. If you have the 64-bit version of Windows 7, 4 GB is the abslote minimum, and more is better.

They are there, but they're on a Pioneer. That has a rubber bumper strip along the lower body line where it flares out, so the edge guards are only the short ones, from the rub strip up to the belt line. If you want 'em, they're yours for shipping. I have no plans for them, and the doors aren't worth saving.

There may be some factory door guards on one of my parts XJs. I'll try to look when I'm outside later this afternoon or tomorrow.

Thank goodness Craig Houghtaling still keeps his web site up. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/skid.htm From factory parts manual:

He said he had no voltage at the blower fuse. Posts number 3 and 8. He said he has voltage at the fan connector. Rohls - Are you certain you have voltage at the fan connector? You should be able to read four different voltages, with the fan switch set for Low, Medium, High and Full speed. Those four voltages HAVE TO be different, because that's what controls the fan speed. Test again, and report all four voltages. Also tell us how you're testing. Assuming you have voltage at the connector, try using a Scotchlock tap off the ground wire and running a new ground wire directly to the battery. See if the fan works that way.

I disagree about pulling the dash switch, and I told you changing the resistor pack wouldn't fix it. If you have voltage at the fan connector, and the fan motors run when hot-wired, the ONLY possible cause of the problem has to be the ground. There are only two wires here -- power in, and power out. You have verified that you have power in, so the problem has to be on the power out side.

I had to do that a couple of years ago. Three out of four came off after a couple of whacks on the tire with a hand-held (2-pound IIRC) sledge. The fourth was welded in place. I used a full-size sledge and beat it off, but I had to destroy the wheel in the process. Try removing the lug nuts and spray around them liberally with PB Blaster. Spray the center hole-to-hub interface liberally. And poke the long wand nozzle in between the rim and the brake drum and try to soak the whole interface. Let it soak overnight, then hammer on it in the morning.

The one I found several years ago was made by Putnam. No longer available, of course.

How do you know it's not the rear main seal? Where do you think the rear main seal would leak other than into the bellhousing?

That's a bargain. I paid $500 for one a few years ago.

Well, a couple of posts back you wrote that you believed it was a 1/4-ton because "somebody" told you that. Now it's because the suspension deflects under load. Make up your mind. Your truck was rated to carry 1,475 pounds when it was new. Shocks do NOT support weight, they dampen spring oscillation. Blown shocks do not cause a vehicle to sit lower. Springs carry the weight. Springs deflect under load -- 900 pounds is about 2/3 of the maximum your truck is rated to carry. You can't expect to throw 900 pounds in the back and not have it deflect.

If you are running factory rims, 10.50 is the widest you can go. Take a look at how close the inner sidewall is to both the inner fender well and the leaf spring in the back. If you can find some 32" or 33" tires that are narrower than 11.5" you should be okay. One of the companies used to offer a good tire in 33x9.50, but I believe that was discontinued many years ago.