Eagle

I don't know, but I would be very surprised if it worked.

Sounds like a master cylinder problem to me.

The shout box isn't confusing to me -- I have never looked at it. Would I miss it if it went away? Nope, not a bit. If I wanted to be posting on Facebook, I would have created a Facebook account.

I know several computer geeks who regard Norton as a virus in itself. Dump it. There are GOOD free anti-virus packages out there. I tried AVG and I didn't like it. I know use Avast!, which some reviewers rate slightly below AVG and some rate higher than AVG. You haven't said how much memory the desktop computer has. You need a minimum of 4 GB for Windows 7. Actually, the 32-bit version will function with 2 GB and it'll limp along with 1 GB, but to do anything processor and memory intensive, 4 is better. If you have the 64-bit version of Windows 7, 4 GB is the abslote minimum, and more is better.

They are there, but they're on a Pioneer. That has a rubber bumper strip along the lower body line where it flares out, so the edge guards are only the short ones, from the rub strip up to the belt line. If you want 'em, they're yours for shipping. I have no plans for them, and the doors aren't worth saving.

There may be some factory door guards on one of my parts XJs. I'll try to look when I'm outside later this afternoon or tomorrow.

Thank goodness Craig Houghtaling still keeps his web site up. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/skid.htm From factory parts manual:

He said he had no voltage at the blower fuse. Posts number 3 and 8. He said he has voltage at the fan connector. Rohls - Are you certain you have voltage at the fan connector? You should be able to read four different voltages, with the fan switch set for Low, Medium, High and Full speed. Those four voltages HAVE TO be different, because that's what controls the fan speed. Test again, and report all four voltages. Also tell us how you're testing. Assuming you have voltage at the connector, try using a Scotchlock tap off the ground wire and running a new ground wire directly to the battery. See if the fan works that way.

I disagree about pulling the dash switch, and I told you changing the resistor pack wouldn't fix it. If you have voltage at the fan connector, and the fan motors run when hot-wired, the ONLY possible cause of the problem has to be the ground. There are only two wires here -- power in, and power out. You have verified that you have power in, so the problem has to be on the power out side.

I had to do that a couple of years ago. Three out of four came off after a couple of whacks on the tire with a hand-held (2-pound IIRC) sledge. The fourth was welded in place. I used a full-size sledge and beat it off, but I had to destroy the wheel in the process. Try removing the lug nuts and spray around them liberally with PB Blaster. Spray the center hole-to-hub interface liberally. And poke the long wand nozzle in between the rim and the brake drum and try to soak the whole interface. Let it soak overnight, then hammer on it in the morning.

The one I found several years ago was made by Putnam. No longer available, of course.

How do you know it's not the rear main seal? Where do you think the rear main seal would leak other than into the bellhousing?

That's a bargain. I paid $500 for one a few years ago.

Well, a couple of posts back you wrote that you believed it was a 1/4-ton because "somebody" told you that. Now it's because the suspension deflects under load. Make up your mind. Your truck was rated to carry 1,475 pounds when it was new. Shocks do NOT support weight, they dampen spring oscillation. Blown shocks do not cause a vehicle to sit lower. Springs carry the weight. Springs deflect under load -- 900 pounds is about 2/3 of the maximum your truck is rated to carry. You can't expect to throw 900 pounds in the back and not have it deflect.

If you are running factory rims, 10.50 is the widest you can go. Take a look at how close the inner sidewall is to both the inner fender well and the leaf spring in the back. If you can find some 32" or 33" tires that are narrower than 11.5" you should be okay. One of the companies used to offer a good tire in 33x9.50, but I believe that was discontinued many years ago.

Whoever you have been "told by" obviously doesn't know squat, so perhaps you should stop listening to them The rated payload for a stock Comanche was 1475. The payload for the Metric Ton pacgage was 2200 pounds. A )U.S.) ton is 2000 pounds, so a quarter ton is only 500 pounds. The basic Comanche carries nearly three times that, so it's a 3/4-ton. The metric ton carries MORE THAN a U.S. ton. You have here the most authoritative source of information about the Comanche. Why are you even paying attention to people who obviously have no clue?

I epoxied mine and it lasted maybe a week. I use OEM shift knobs from the 2000 XJ and the TJ Wranglers.

Been there, done that. Also twice. First time was also about 20 miles from home. The second time was about 100 miles (fortunately, much of it highway).

Issue number one. You're here asking for advice, but you're not telling us anywhere near the whole story. Such as: How old are you? How old is this brother-of-girlfriend? How old is the girlfriend? Most important, since you wrote that it's "understandable" that he now hates you -- WHY? What did you do to him to turn him against you? And how did he cross the line yesterday? Asking for help and then copping out with "Not going into it" is not conducive to getting solid advice. You don't. Somehow, even if his parents and sisters agree with your side of whatever the conflict is about, physical assault is never a solution, is almost guaranteed to turn the rest of the family against you, and ... pay attention ... is a felony offense in every state. If you need anger management classes, sign up for them now, before a judge orders you to attend them. P.S. A Comanche is not a "car." Get over it.

I'm at eleven -- eight XJs and three MJs. A couple of the XJs are destined for the boneyard, though, and the 2001 is going to go on the block. Since my wife died I just don't need that many Cherokees.

Short wheelbase or long wheelbase -- it doesn't matter. There was only one hitch, and it fit both chassis.

That would have been too easy, and too logical. Remember, it WAS AMC we're discussing. As much as I liked AMC vehicles, they did some strange things. However, in all honesty, it may not have been an AMC decision at all. It may have been Dana Spicer.

No. It's a 3/4-ton pickup, why would you need to change the suspension? Do your homework -- there's nothing different from the 2WD to the 4WD models except the ride height, and in the Cherokee not even that changes.

You were told wrong. The AX-15 is a larger transmission, with a larger bellhousing that mates to the larger bolt pattern of the 4.0L block. It also takes a larger diameter throw-out bearing, and a larger spline diameter for the clutch disk. The AX-5 (as well as the AX-4) and the AX-15 both came in 2WD versions and 4WD versions. The difference is whether the transmission has a tail cone with a seal for the driveshaft yoke, or a rear housing with a bolt flange to which the transfer case can be attached.

The difference is in the head gasket. One gets gasket cement, the other goes on dry. The torque would match the gasket.