Eagle

If whatever damage it suffered was repaired properly, IMHO $4200 for a '99 XJ with only 106,000 miles on it is a GOOD price. They're selling for more than that around here with higher mileage. His gas mileage claims, however, are pure fantasy. As someone said, expect maybe 17-20 mpg. Check the front footwells from underneath for rust. The XJ is just as likely to rust out there as an MJ.

Only if it comes from a '97 or newer XJ. The newer ones have larger axle shafts. The older 8.25 has the same shaft diameter and spline count as the D35. The housing is stronger, but the internals aren't much better. If you're going to do it, do it once.

Would you suggest a tune up after I do this? A tune up? No, you will need to run it on a dyno, monitoring the fuel-air mix, and very likely you'll need to rejet the carburetor, and possibly rework the advance springs in the distributor. so all this just to go to straight pipes??? Yes, if he wants to have it run right and not burn the valves due to a constant lean-burn condition.

That's C200 for the ECU. According to the factory electrical manual, dealer-installed air only used two connections off the ECU: #22, A/C Clutch; and #30, A/C Control Switch

Stuck starter solenoid.

Would you suggest a tune up after I do this? A tune up? No, you will need to run it on a dyno, monitoring the fuel-air mix, and very likely you'll need to rejet the carburetor, and possibly rework the advance springs in the distributor.

Obviously, you're not looking in the right places. According to the twit in the video, they're everywhere and people are giving them away.

Okay, you caught me. To what address shall I send my man card?

If it's left on too long or you use too much, the stripper will definitely eat into aluminum. I think it says that in the instructions.

5-liter Mustang.

The problem is that the wiring diagram probably doesn't exist. I have an '87 with dealer-installed air. It's definitely NOT factory air -- although I believe it was made by a company named "Factory Air," which may have been an affiliate or subsidiary of AMC back then. It worked, and it looked similar to factory-installed a/c, but it was pretty much different. I'm thinking seriously about removing mine and putting in the real factory air out of an '87 XJ donor vehicle.

1. Brake dust is dust -- it ALWAYS comes off. Spray it with aerosol brake cleaner. Done. Wash the wheels with Simple Green. Done. 2. The turbine wheels are not chrome. They are aluminum alloy, with polished flats and other surfaces left rough.

What's different is that on the MJ (and XJ), the CAD housing also incorporates the tower for the upper control arm. The YJ doesn't have control arms, it's leaf sprung in the front. I don't know if the YJ CAD housing incorporates the spring perch but, whether it does or not, you're still faced with trying to add an UCA tower to a CAD housing that wasn't designed or intended to have one. Personally, I'd much rather swap the gears than try to align and weld four control arm brackets, at least one of which is going to have to be a custom design. Remember, this is the front axle, the one you steer with. If you don't get the positions and angles of all four control arm brackets located precisely and symmetrically, you'll always have squirrely handling.

Yes, the harnesses are different -- aside from the length. The XJ has dedicated amber lights for the turn signals and hazard flashers, so stepping on the brake doesn't stop the flashers from flashing, and so you still get both brake lights when the turn signal is signaling. The MJ uses the same 2-filament bulbs for taillights, stoplights, turn signals AND hazard flashers.

Yep. IMHO, what a colossal waste of time, effort, and materials. I may be in a minority, but I like those turbine wheels. What he did wasn't "refurbish" that wheel so much as bastardize it. I restore them by stripping the clear coat, polishing the flats, and applying new clear coat.

With a B8 it's a Dana 44, but it's the crappy aluminum housing "Dana 44." It may be the only axle in the known universe that's less desireable than a Dana 35 for Jeep applications. Even worse -- although it's called a "Dana 44," it doesn't take standard D44 parts. Take the brakes and adapt them to whatever axle you have in your truck. Sell the rest for scrap.

All of the above.

Really? That's not what you said a couple of posts above. Keep in mind that if you have an '86, unless you have done a power plant swap/upgrade, you have either a second generation 2.5L or a 2.8L engine. Neither is a powerhouse. They'll be working hard to push 31-inch tires. I don't think you'll be happy with 32s or anything larger.

How old is your oxygen sensor? Blue smoke means burning oil. Black smoke is carbon, and the usual cause of black smoke is a very rich mixture -- which can be the result of a dying oxygen sensor.

119.9 - 113 = 6.9 There's your answer.

I ran 31x10.50s when I had the 4" lift in my '88 MJ and I didn't feel I needed (or wanted) anything larger. Whatever floats your boat.

Then what you would do is get a 3.4L (must come from a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird). Use your existing Jeep intake and exhaust manifolds. Use your Jeep flywheel, but you'll have to have it re-balanced. The 2.8L was an externally-balanced engine -- meaning there's a blob of eccentric weight on one side of the flywheel. The 3.4L is internally balanced, so you have to get the blob removed and the flywheel "neutral balanced" (no eccentric weights in any one spot). The 3.4L doesn't have a place for a mechanical fuel pump, so you'll need an electric. Not a big deal -- for a carburetor, the fuel pump only pushes about 7 psi and you can find plenty of choices at a speed shop or on-line at Summit Racing. Such as this: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/universal/yes/product-line/summit-racing-street-strip-electric-fuel-pumps?N=4294951509%2B4294947842%2B4294951518%2B4294948048%2B4294921162&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&autoview=SKU&keyword=Electric%20Fuel%20Pumps

There can also be a mechanical problem resulting in high idle. The cable from the accelerator peddle leads to a bellcrank lever that pivots on a bracket mounted on the driver's side frame ear, below the master cylinder. From there, a rod extends up to snap onto the ball stud on the throttle body. Every few years (usually after a tough winter) I've found on my '88s that the pivot point (joint) of the bellcrank gets either corroded or contaminated with enough gunk that it doesn't allow the throttle to close all the way when pressure is released from the peddle. Soaking the pivot with PB Blaster has resolved this.

Respectfully, you DON'T want to do a 4.0L conversion. Not on an '86. You want to do a GM 3.4L conversion. You won't be needing to hack and/or hammer your firewall, and the block is the same basic 60-degree V6 as the 2.8L so the engine itself is a bolt-in conversion, and will take the same transmission you already have. You would have a choice of staying with your carburetor, or keeping the GM MPFI and getting the engine room wiring harness to run it from the donor vehicle.

It's highly unlikely that anyone would get pinched for having beadlocks on the street. The potential risk is that if you are in an accident caused by a blown tire (even if the blowout wasn't caused by the beadlock), your insurance might decline to pay, and if anyone is injured you could be facing a civil liability lawsuit. Why take the chance? As PFCLeist commented above, the purpose of beadlocks (hence the name) is to retain the bead with the tire aired down to very low pressures. They are completely unnecessary at normal, street driving tire pressures.