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Eagle

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Everything posted by Eagle

  1. Out of curiosity -- you have checked to verify that the bulbs in the cluster are good, right?
  2. It may already be gone. The circuit is normally closed, IIRC, and it relies on inserting the seatbelt tab into the buckle to make a connection that shuts off the buzzer. On my '88 Cherokee, after many thousands of miles the driver's side seat belt broke -- the little spring inside the buckle failed, and the tab would no longer stay latched. I replaced it with the one from the center rear, but that didn't have the electrical connection. I remember clipping the connector off the original buckle end and splicing the wires together to make a closed circuit, and then plugging that into the pigtail under the seat.
  3. There's a link to the '88 electrical manual floating around here somewhere. That will answer all your questions. Found it: http://www.bteventures.com//mj1988electricalmanual.pdf
  4. Seat belt buzzer, perhaps?
  5. If there's 12 volts at the connector, the switch isn't bad. More than likely the brushes in the blower motor have worn out and it needs a replacement motor.
  6. http://www.harborfreight.com/Three-Jaw-Puller-Set-4-Pc-69104.html or http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
  7. The 2.5L uses the same timing chain as the 4.0L, but the deck height is lower on the 2.5L and that results in slack in the timing chain. To compensate for this, the 2.5L uses a timing chain tensioner that's not used on the 4.0L. Usually the tensioner goes long before the timing chain. My guess is that you need a timing chain tensioner.
  8. I disagree. The UCA bolts are 10mm, and that's a LOT smaller than 1/2-inch. Factory control arms with mileage on them have a lot less slop than that and rattle and clunk pretty loudly. Find the right bushings.
  9. Dunno. THe first one in my list is also a Jeep remanufactured unit. Until I looked them up, I wasn't aware that there's a different part number for the Renix water pump than for the '91 and newer. The one in your link says it fits both the 2.5L and the 4.0L. I have always been of the understanding that the two engines use the same water pump, but there are different part numbers in the parts manuals. There are also different numbers for export, and for some years the ZJ 4.0L gets a different water pump than the XJ. Who knew? I apologize -- I suspect this isn't exactly helpful.
  10. JR77 5122 '87-'90 4.0L 4626 215 '91-'93 4.0L (XJ/MJ) 4626 215 '94-'96 4.0L (XJ) 4626 215AD 2000 4.0L (XJ)
  11. If you do SOA in the rear with a Ford 8.8. you're going to get at least 5-1/2 to 6 inches of lift. To go with a 4-1/2" in front, IMHO you're better off staying SUA with a bastard pack and shackles. Here's a link that may help you decide on gear ratio: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html From that, you can see that 33" tires with 4.10 gears works out to almost exactly the same as stock tires with an automatic (3.54 gear). If you're use is 75 pavement, that's not too bad, and it makes it much easier than buying a new axle and then regearing it to 4.56 or 4.88. As to the front -- if you can get a complete axle out of a 4-banger with 4.10s cheaper than regearing, go for it. I'd probably just buy gears and call it good rather than spend a lot of time trying to chase down a front axle of of a 4-cylinder XJ or MJ.
  12. The Mopar Performance timing set is the way to do, IMHO.
  13. I think you would do well with a bastard pack. Get some junkyard springs out of a Dakota or S10 -- one of the years that were spring under -- and make your own AALs. There's nothing wrong with a full-length AAL. After all, one of the factory versions of the Metric Ton suspension was a 4-leaf pack with the overload. How is that different from a 3-leaf pack with an AAL?
  14. Probably. Courtesy of the Department of Redundancy Department.
  15. SOA is NOT the way to go if you're looking for 4 inches of lift. SOA is going to net you a minimum of about 5-1/2 inches.
  16. Those are XJ shackles, based on the instructions. Look at photos of stock MJ rear shackles, and don't go by what some aftermarket company suggests about installing on a different vehicle. Although, according to the facory manuals, the orientation should be the same for the XJ and the MJ -- and it would have the flat with the decal facing rearward, not forward.
  17. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48372-a-little-rear-shackle-info/ FWIW, those JKS shackles are installed facing the wrong way.
  18. 43 divided by 14 = 3.07. That's your axle ratio. On the shackles, what's the distance between the upper and lower bolts, center-to-center?
  19. Why do you need a double Cardan joint with a SYE? Double Cardans are used when the operating angle exceeds what a single u-joint can handle. It's necessary on the front because the drive shaft is so short. It's not necessary on the rear unless you've got a very tall lift -- and even then I doubt it's necessary with a long-bed MJ.
  20. Not really. A LOT of AutoZone parts have a lifetime warranty. They just play the odds and figure you won't have the vehicle by the time you need to warranty the part.
  21. That's a handy little tool. Thanks for posting the link.
  22. You didn't know that the XJ has a shorter wheelbase than even the short-bed MJ? Of course the XJ drive shaft is too short.
  23. Did the transmission and transfer case (and the "new" driveshaft) by any chance come from an XJ rather than an MJ?
  24. I don't understand the question. Everyone who has done this swap has done one or the other. The Jeep 2.8L flywheel has a huge, eccentric weight on the flywheel. The 3.4L engines are internally balanced so they don't need that weight on the flywheel. If you bolt on an unmodified 2.8L flywheel, the engine will start and run but it'll shake and vibrate enough to make you think it's going to fall apart within five minutes. I haven't played with the 2.8L / 3.4L swap, but I encountered the same problem when I bought an AMC AMX that was originally a 390 and some previous owner had dropped a 343 into it.
  25. ^^^ This. Letting the coolant sit idle in the heater core all summer is what promotes clogging. There's a reason why Jeep eliminated that valve in the newer XJs.
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