Eagle

A/C condensate drain tube is clogged -- it's peeing into the passenger's footwell. I can't find where the drain tube outlet is. Does anyone know? I thought it was supposed to run down inside the frame rail, but I've got it up on ramps and I don't see anything that looks like a drain tube.

Coils won't balance anything out. You are 1/2" higher than stock in the front, and 1.2" lower than stock in the rear. You need a 1.5" AAL in the rear to balance it out. That's just about what the Rancho AAL will give you. Last I checked, the Rancho AAL kit sold for around $75. If you go spring over in the rear, you're going to gain around 5.5" to 6", so you;ll need 5" coils to balance it out. Since you can run 31" tires on an MJ with zero lift -- why go through the hassle and expense of lifting it?

If you want to install a solid piece of glass, why is your link to a 4-panel slider unit?

You got 8, the specified dimension is 9.2. That's 1.2inches lower than stock. How are you figuring that's 2 inches of lift?

You are confusing the XJ and the MJ. The front ride height measurements are the same, the rear are not. For a 4WD MJ, the rear ride height measured from the top of the axle to the frame rail at the bump stop is supposed to be 9.2" plus or minus 1/2-inch. This means your rear suspension has sagged about an inch, it's not lifted three inches. If it were mine, I would do a simple add-a-leaf to restore the factory ride height, install 30x9.50 tires, and drive it.

If it's a '99, be careful. Jeep switched rotors in mid-year 1999. The early ones are the composite rotors that were used from around 90 or '91 up to mid-'99. These are, in a word, "crap." They are prone to warpage and, in the rust belt, they had a nasty habit of spontaneously disassembling themselves. To be able to buy replacement rotors and hub assemblies, you have to have the vehicle VIN, because they don't interchange (unless you change both the hub and rotor together).

2000 Cherokee should be a low pinion. I own two, one bought November of 1999, the other at the end of the 2000 model run. Both are low pinion.

There was an option to have intermittent wipers, but even with the intermittent there were only two "always on" speeds.

What vehicle is it out of?

It will fit -- WITHOUT CUTTING -- but it's a tight fit. Many have gone before you. The biggest problem you face is cooling. Every SBC I've seen in an XJ or MJ has had cooling issues.

You only need three. Steal one from another hub cap.

Connecticut is another state that requires headlights when it's raining or when "visibility is impaired" (which I suppose means fog or smoke). The buzzer in my '88 XJ stopped working a few years ago, and I've gotten zapped a couple of times because I forgot I had them on.

The auto parts chains sell a two-sided tape for the specific purpose of installing emblems.

Unless it's an early 2.5-liter, which was 2 inches even.

Because the buzzer is not part of the switch, and had already been answered by other members. The point is that the later model headlight switch does not provide automatic operation, which is what he was aksing about.

Does your truck still have the rear height-sensing valve? If so, is it working and correctly adjusted?

Understood. That's what he asked about.

There was a factory option for what they called (IIRC) "headlight sentinal" in 1988. I ordered it on my '88 XJ. But it doesn't turn off the lights if you forget to turn off the switch. The way it works is that if you turn off the ignition first, and then turn off the headlight switch, the lights stay on for one (or three?) minute(s), giving you time to get to the door. The headlights on my 2000 XJs work the same way, so a newer switch won't do what I think you're looking to accomplish.

I would estimate that the odds are about 75:25 in your favor, or maybe a little better.

Possibly the factory used a softer durometer rubber for the XJ.

To the best of my knowledge, there are not two types of plastic attachment. The early (1984-1986) speedo cable has a metal attachment that is held to the speedo with a screw. The 1987 thu 1990 has the white plastic, squeeze-to-release attachment shown in your photo. For vehicles with factory cruise control, the end coming off the speedo head is only about a foot long, then it connects to an adapter that is part of the cruise control setup. The long section of that speedo cable takes a different connection where it attaches to the cruise adapter.

Your description makes it sound like you can continue driving with whatever shaking or banging you are encountering. If you can keep driving, you do not have death wobble. As someone has already commented, motor mounts are unrelated to death wobble. So is driveshaft. Death wobble is the result of a harmonic between the two front wheels. Each shake of one wheel is transmitted to and reinforces the shaking of the opposite wheel, so the shaking continues to increase in amplitude and violence unless/until you stop (or slow down to less than about 5 MPH).

The seal IS the problem. Actually, it's not the seal, it's the overall design. There's a metal frame channel along the bottom edge of the glass. BUT ... the metal channel doesn't run the full length of the bottom edge. Obviously, where the metal stops there's a step to the plane of the glass, and the rubber seal can't close that step effectively. That's where they weep. That's where I packed mine with silicone grease to seal it up. As long as I don't open the window, it's tight. If I were to use the window regularly, I would probably have to reapply the grease every week or two.

"Electrical grease" usually means dielectric grease, which is an insulator, not a conductor. IMHO you would do better to use something like Ox-Gard, which is mineral oil based and conductive, and is intended to prevent corrosion on electrical terminals.

THe voltmeter isn't telling you battery voltage when the truck is running anyway, it's telling you how much voltage the alternator is putting out. Around 13-1/2 volts is correct, but if it's trying to push 13-1/2 volts into a battery with an internal fault, that's why it's overheating. In theory you should be able to disconnect the battery after staring the engine and drive it all day. I found this out the hard way when I first attempted to install a kill switch in my race car. I thought I had it all figured out. Installed the box and switch where it was easily accessible when strapped in with a four point racing harness, connected all the wires, fired up the engine and hit the kill switch. It was night time, since I worked during the days, so I had the lights on. All that happened was that the engine kept running, but the headlights got brighter. All I had done was to remove the battery from the circuit, so the full output from the alternator was being fed to the lights without the damping effect of the battery in the circuit. Back to the drawing board. I got it figured out, finally, but I learned something that day (night).