Eagle

You only need three. Steal one from another hub cap.

Connecticut is another state that requires headlights when it's raining or when "visibility is impaired" (which I suppose means fog or smoke). The buzzer in my '88 XJ stopped working a few years ago, and I've gotten zapped a couple of times because I forgot I had them on.

The auto parts chains sell a two-sided tape for the specific purpose of installing emblems.

Unless it's an early 2.5-liter, which was 2 inches even.

Because the buzzer is not part of the switch, and had already been answered by other members. The point is that the later model headlight switch does not provide automatic operation, which is what he was aksing about.

Does your truck still have the rear height-sensing valve? If so, is it working and correctly adjusted?

Understood. That's what he asked about.

There was a factory option for what they called (IIRC) "headlight sentinal" in 1988. I ordered it on my '88 XJ. But it doesn't turn off the lights if you forget to turn off the switch. The way it works is that if you turn off the ignition first, and then turn off the headlight switch, the lights stay on for one (or three?) minute(s), giving you time to get to the door. The headlights on my 2000 XJs work the same way, so a newer switch won't do what I think you're looking to accomplish.

I would estimate that the odds are about 75:25 in your favor, or maybe a little better.

Possibly the factory used a softer durometer rubber for the XJ.

To the best of my knowledge, there are not two types of plastic attachment. The early (1984-1986) speedo cable has a metal attachment that is held to the speedo with a screw. The 1987 thu 1990 has the white plastic, squeeze-to-release attachment shown in your photo. For vehicles with factory cruise control, the end coming off the speedo head is only about a foot long, then it connects to an adapter that is part of the cruise control setup. The long section of that speedo cable takes a different connection where it attaches to the cruise adapter.

Your description makes it sound like you can continue driving with whatever shaking or banging you are encountering. If you can keep driving, you do not have death wobble. As someone has already commented, motor mounts are unrelated to death wobble. So is driveshaft. Death wobble is the result of a harmonic between the two front wheels. Each shake of one wheel is transmitted to and reinforces the shaking of the opposite wheel, so the shaking continues to increase in amplitude and violence unless/until you stop (or slow down to less than about 5 MPH).

The seal IS the problem. Actually, it's not the seal, it's the overall design. There's a metal frame channel along the bottom edge of the glass. BUT ... the metal channel doesn't run the full length of the bottom edge. Obviously, where the metal stops there's a step to the plane of the glass, and the rubber seal can't close that step effectively. That's where they weep. That's where I packed mine with silicone grease to seal it up. As long as I don't open the window, it's tight. If I were to use the window regularly, I would probably have to reapply the grease every week or two.

"Electrical grease" usually means dielectric grease, which is an insulator, not a conductor. IMHO you would do better to use something like Ox-Gard, which is mineral oil based and conductive, and is intended to prevent corrosion on electrical terminals.

THe voltmeter isn't telling you battery voltage when the truck is running anyway, it's telling you how much voltage the alternator is putting out. Around 13-1/2 volts is correct, but if it's trying to push 13-1/2 volts into a battery with an internal fault, that's why it's overheating. In theory you should be able to disconnect the battery after staring the engine and drive it all day. I found this out the hard way when I first attempted to install a kill switch in my race car. I thought I had it all figured out. Installed the box and switch where it was easily accessible when strapped in with a four point racing harness, connected all the wires, fired up the engine and hit the kill switch. It was night time, since I worked during the days, so I had the lights on. All that happened was that the engine kept running, but the headlights got brighter. All I had done was to remove the battery from the circuit, so the full output from the alternator was being fed to the lights without the damping effect of the battery in the circuit. Back to the drawing board. I got it figured out, finally, but I learned something that day (night).

I don't think it makes any difference what any of the sensors read. If the ECU isn't in closed loop mode, it ignores sensor input and operates on a pre-mapped fuel/air curve, which is programmed to be rich so the vehicle can operate during warm-up on cold days, when cold air is most dense.

You didn't flag "LOOP" as an issue, and that's the issue. It needs to be in closed loop for the O2 sensor and other inputs to control the air/fuel mix. That's related to the coolant temp sensor, because it won't switch into closed loop until the temperature is above 165 degrees.

Or 3. a lower (suction) radiator hose that collapses because it doesn't have the internal spring.

I don't like to beat a dead horse, but we use words to communicate, so it's important that words are used to mean the same thing to everyone. The term "death wobble" has a specific meaning -- it refers to when BOTH front wheels are shaking so violently that it's almost impossible to control the vehicle, and the only way to stop it from shaking is to slow down to 5 MPH or less, or stop completely. If that's not what you are experiencing, you are not encountering death wobble and should not be asking advice to cure death wobble. It's not "DW, or whatever you want to call it." Either it's death wobble, or it's something else. If you can keep driving with the shaking, or speed up or slow down just a little bit and it goes away, you don't have death wobble. We're all here to help one another but it's difficult to diagnose problems remotely by Internet forum. When the wrong terms are used to describe tghe problem, it's impossible. [/rant mode]

I believe the ECU, which in the Renix years is located under the dashboard, is on the vehicle side of the C101, not the engine room side. I don't think you can just disconnect the engine room harness at the C101 and swap the part that's under the hood.

The 2.5L gives better gas mileage, but far less performance. However, as noted, replacing a 2.5L is far easier than doing a swap to a 4.0L. To change to a 4.0L you'll need a complete engine room wiring harness, a new ECU, a new radiator and radiator supports, a new transmission -- and probably a bunch of things I haven't thought of off the top of my head.

I discussed an ECU reflash with the dealership and they said there weren't any available.

I thought when the fuse blows the transmission no longer shifts. I know the diagnostic routine in the 1911 FSM for the AW4 says to remove the fuse and then drive the vehicle by shifting manually. Are you sure you getting shifting, or is it stuck in 4th gear and overworking the torque converter?

I am not aware on any GM 4.0L engine that was ever used in any Jeep vehicle. What Jeep vehicle ever came with a 4-liter, 6-cylinder GM engine?

WHOA! The Jeep 4.0L engine is NOT a GM engine.