jtdesigns

Never done it drunk, but I've spent plenty of nights in my buckets. 3 nights of my 3 week trip out west were spent sleeping vertically. :ack: Gezz I couldnt imagine doing that in a MJ.. I'd sleep in the bed first.. Bed of the truck that is.

Pull the rear cover and get all the old oil out, clean the surfaces of the cover and where it mates up to the housing, get some RTV and reinstall the cover, then refill at the plug until oil starts to drip out where your filling it.

My truck whines when its moving any at all, but its the puke 5spd.. I'd just drive it till it broke, then swap.

Nice find!! I just got me one!

You have a BA-10?

lol... SWII,, r u "searching" for that back yard thread????? :rotfl2:

yeah,, and he needs to vacuum it..

I hope that pooch don't try to dig in that astro turf... :D

This is a cool write-up on how to make an On-board welder. It can be found here> http://home.comcast.net/~t.molnar/Obwelder1.htm home page Why did I need it? I learned how to weld out of necessity when I needed to fabricate a rear bumper that can accommodate tow points. I didn't have anybody to teach me so I bought a couple of books and borrowed a 110V Lincoln WeldPac wire-feed welder and set out to practice until I felt comfortable with the basics. Welding is something that one needs to DO to learn it. It's mostly experience. The first day of the first big trail ride event I attended ended with and all-night welding session as several rigs lined up front of the welding truck to have various broken bits repaired. I got to love melting metal and saw how useful this could be on the trail to do some quick emergency repairs. So with this in mind I began to research how to construct an onboard welder. Again there are a couple of options: * Battery welder - Most likely everybody who has ever disconnected/reconnected a car/truck battery noticed the healthy sparks that the battery can generate. While the 12 volts from a single battery is not really enough to weld, take 2 or 3 batteries connected in series producing 24 or 36 volts and you got a dandy 100% duty cycle power source usable for welding. Connect some #4 or #2 welding leads with ground clamp and electrode holder and you're ready to weld. For a couple of minutes... You also need to make sure that you weld well away from the batteries to reduce the risk of explosion due to the fumes generated by the heavy load on the batteries. It is also quiet cumbersome to carry 2 or 3 batteries on the trail. So, onto the next option. * Alternator welder - This is it. The alternator is a simple wonder. Once freed from its automotive restrictions and hooked up to a suitable motivating force it can generate all kind of power suitable for welding. And not just any kind of power but high-frequency power. Why does it matter you ask? The standard household current powered welders have low frequency (60Hz cycle) which means that in an AC arc welder the current switches direction 60 times a second which agitates the weld puddle at that speed producing a cleaning effect. The faster the agitation the faster and better the cleaning producing better and stronger welds given the same power input. In the alternator welder the current level cycles up and down and produces frequencies in the hundreds or thousands per second! It makes a 100 Amp high-frequency alternator welder equivalent to a 140 Amp ordinary AC arc welder. You have to see it to believe it! So this is what I was after. The basics... There are a few write-ups on the web on this topic and they all use or recommend the use of the older style externally regulated alternators. It makes sense since on these alternators there is a ready field power input connection that can be simply hooked up to the battery through a relay giving it full field voltage. With an internal regulator it's a more complex matter. We need to remove the regulator and the exciter or voltage sensing diode pack from inside the alternator. This requires careful disassembly and identification of all the components. Here is the basic diagram of an externally regulated automotive alternator circuit: The regulator can be inside the alternator too but the connections are basically the same. The next picture illustrates the connections to be eliminated: This leaves a 12 volt connection to the rotor field brush - by using a 30A automotive relay and a 10A fuse - and a direct ground connection to reduce the chance of damaging the engine electronics. The welding leads are connected to the battery output terminal and to the direct ground as illustrated: This illustration assumes an internal AC/DC rectifier. Obviously the rectifier needs to be able to handle the high voltage generated by system (rated at least 30A at 200V, 50A is better) so if yours is not up to the task (kind of like mine) then you need to hook up an external rectifier (easier) or swap out the diodes on the internal one (more difficult). Rectifiers come in many shapes and sizes from OEM replacement parts to specialty heavy-duty units in their own cooled boxes. A good source for parts is Transpo Electronics at http://www.transpo-usa.com. They have hundreds of different models with specs available and they also have the boxed heavy-duty units. Replacing the factory mounted diodes that are usually soldered on requires that you heat the heatsink with the mounted diodes on a hot plate just until the solder melts then replace them with the new ones with some solder applied and allow to cool. Since it requires special equipment it was out of the question for me. Finding the right one... Alternators are capable of generating increasingly higher voltages relative to the their RPM. When they're used in automotive charging circuits they are always regulated by an external or internal regulator circuit to maintain output voltage below 15 volts so that the battery will not be damaged. The regulator simply reduces the field input voltage from below 12 volts to almost nothing to maintain the <15 volts output. We need to eliminate this regulator and apply the full 12 volts to the field positive so we can get the maximum available output from the unit. This can be a relatively easy matter or more complex depending on the specimen. The amperage rating of the unit also gives us a clue as to what kind of output we can accept. The bigger the better. Well almost...(see later) You can start with an older 66 amp Delco model that has a Y wired stator that can be rewired to a D (delta) configuration effectively almost doubling it's output (more on this later). You can go up to the 100-120A Ford style Delco or Motorcraft alternators and to some similar 130A Chrysler Delco models also. I've seen a big 120A Bosch unit in a yard that also looked promising. The biggest car alternators available are the big case 140A GM Delco-Remy models out of mid 90s Camaros and Firebirds. This is what I picked up for $40 but there is a catch! The good... These monster big case alternators are able to withstand great loads and heat. Their big case provides adequate cooling, has a heavy-duty rotor with an external fan, a beefy delta wound stator and good quality bearings. Their electronic components are also rated over 140A. Since we're going to mostly gut it out though the most important factor remains the rotor and stator cooling and stout bearings. The bad... Apparently GM got real fancy with their charging circuit by actually using the engine management computer also as part of the regulating circuitry. What this means is that instead of a simple beefy field input stud there is a special four prong connector on the alternator where the field power would go. This takes the field power and other inputs from the engine computer and there is no easy way to use this connector to supply field voltage to the rotor. Another bad thing I found out about these beasts is that while the rectifier diodes are able to handle over 140A they are only designed to handle 32 volts! That's right. They're designed to burn out at 32 volts as a form of protection. It's a bummer since we're hoping to generate over 100 volts here. I quickly found this out during the first test where at idle I got 30V and as soon as I throttled up a diode blew and the alternator started straining terribly almost killing the engine. I quickly shot it down and inspected the damage with a multimeter. Later I found out on the Transpo Electronics website that this rectifier has a working voltage limit of 32V! :( So now I was in for a fight. And the ugly... I decided to stick it out and work with what I have. After talking to an alternator repair guy about replacement diodes and finding none that would fit and would work up to 200V he gave me a couple of stout looking rectifiers rated 100A at 200V off some monster Ford Motorcraft truck (Transpo part# FR1270) alternators to use as an external rectifier. Now I had what I needed to make it all work so it was on to making the necessary modifications. Modifying the alternator... Here are some pictures that show the inside of the alternator with the components labeled: Alternator case Back connections The alternator case Connections on the back The connector that needs to go The inside You basically need to remove the regulator (I just disconnected it) and the exciter diode. Then hook the 12 volt field power directly to the field brush (upper or inner brush). The other brush should be ground to the case by design. These picture shows how I made the connections using a 10 gauge wire soldered directly to the brush terminal: Field wire Connected to field brush I opted to mount the external rectifier that I was given somehow and take the power off of it directly. This required that I remove the factory rectifiers (shown below in picture) along with their heat sinks leaving the plastic support mount with the studs that the stator wires mount to in place. I hooked up three 10 gauge wires to the stator leads leading the 3 phase outside the case to the external rectifier. This is what the external rectifier looks like with the 3 phase wires going to it mounted on the alternator support bracket: The mounting bracket... Since I already had an onboard air compressor installed that used the serpentine belt I had to drive the second alternator off the stock one using a combo serpentine/v-belt pulley from Brad Kilby: I also installed a v-belt pulley on the weldernator since it originally came with a 6 groove serpentine pulley. For the bracket I used a piece of 5x7x1/8 inch thick plate with ears welded on it for the alternator to mount on and another pair of ears on the back to mount on the top ears of the air compressor. This is where it will mount and the half finished bracket: This is the finished bracket with dual adjusters and a top brace. The second picture shows the finished connections including the control box. Note how little space is left around the alternator. This is the simple control box. It ended up to be too small with the relay and the thick cables running inside. It contains a 30A automotive relay, a 10A fuse holder, a lighted 30A rocker switch and two female welding lead quick connect sockets. I will probably upgrade to a larger box that will accommodate a panel voltmeter and a 110V outlet. Finally my first bead with a 1/16 rod at 45V on 1/16 inch thick sheet metal and another one on 1/4 pieces with 1/8 rod at 85V: So that's it. I've learned a lot from this project and as always it's not quiet finished yet. I have to get some practice time under my belt also so when the time comes on the trail I can be confident in my repairs. If you have any questions just e-mail me. Other onboard welder installations: Damon Gentile's weldernator - he was of great help to me throughout the project. Jon's welder, he also made a portable shop alternator welder. A home built gas engine powered welder using a 100A Chrysler alternator.

:shake: I bought my truck for a truck,,, thats what it is and what its used for.. Maybe in the near future I can get me a another truck for hauling and start to street mine up.... So I guess work truck is its purpose...

Isnt that bolt a external torx????

That pup looks very obedient and alert. Teach her to fetch beer from the fridge, that would be sick..

Do mustangs not have different offsets for the front and rear, and do the stang offsets fit on our trucks??

You guys know we do have one of those threads right?? Well kinda.. but someone really needs to go though it and organize it. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7910

ayhh maybe Ferrari will buy Fiat!! That'd be sweet but can you Imagine the price.... Geeezzz

Thats what I'm saying... A true Jeep'r will hook you up not screw you over,, at least in my perfect world.. Unfortunately, I tend to relate a our whole society to what has been happening lately on here and other forums. Or more like how society in a whole has become.. Our actions and greed as a whole has really decayed this country. All the plants around me are shutting down, unemployment is at a staggering high and climbing, people losing their houses, lives, and pride. I mean I know I've come down hard on these one hit wonders, but I feel its my duty and right to fight for justice and to be treated fair. I feel like alot of you are family, and it bites me hard when someone tries to take advantage of my blood you know.. LETS TAKE OUR COUNTRY BACK!!!!!!!! ITS UP TO YOU, ME, AND US TO FIGHT AGAINST THE EVIL EMPIRE!!! Where are you going to be standing when the time comes to fight??? I will right beside you my brothers... Isn't that what it means to be a true Jeep'r?? The next time your wheeling you'll see the unity of others when someone is in need and how many can pull together to overcome.. Next time you see someone hurt, or distressed you'll see the quickness of others to lend a helping hand, if you just open your eyes and not look the other way; because one day it very well might be you that needs that hand to grasp... :USAflag: :USAflag: jt for president... :USAflag: :USAflag:

:cheers: Thanks, mate... :thumbsup:

No.. Check your PM's...... :doh: In my best CA gov's voice...... I'll be back....

Nice lil mod Don.. Hey can you get a close-up pic of the bottom corner of the door?? I'd like to be able to see the seal up close. jt

That Pinked Volvo reminds me of "The Search for Animal Chin" Those front disc look incredibly small with those big wheels.. I think there a tad too big,, 22's would look better.. And the big brake kit,, ect.....

Heck yeah I've been missing the Jedi Training Ball for 20 years..... I'm just speaking from experience here, but guys like this who have very brand specific parts like this are going to rape you without any sort of reach around, or ky.. If you can afford it then be my guest... I know I can't, but like I said before I hope I'm wrong and I'll man up if I am, but my gut is telling me I won't be.. If I buy something from NY its going be from Wildman.. He's a carpenter not a parts dealer :yes: Its the same thing as Motion Offroad, or others at lest MO gives us a LOT of know how what not.. Not like this guy. Besides if you need something don't call that dood,,, POST A WTB in the Classifieds..... :doh: :roll:

It kinda snowballed the more I thought about it.. :D

Roger that.. :thumbsup:

Hey Wildman could you scan me a copy of the wiring diagram??